Fabric 101: Cupro
Cupro fabric is plant-based synthetic fiber that is often regarded as a sustainable alternative to silk due to its similar drape, smooth feel, and subtle sheen. It comes from turning cotton linter, a part of the cotton plant that would normally be waste, into a usable fiber using a chemical process similar to rayon.
Although not entirely free from environmental impact, cupro’s production generally uses a closed-loop process that can recycle and reuse the solvent and water. This method not only maximizes material use but also minimizes waste, which appeals to anyone looking for eco-friendly fabric options.
What is cupro fabric?
Cupro (often referred to as Bemberg, its brand name) originates from the cotton plant, more specifically from cotton linter, which is the ultrafine, silky fiber that sticks to the seeds after the cotton is ginned. These little pieces are typically a cotton byproduct that are discarded because considered to be too small for traditional cotton fabric manufacturing.
Cupro production takes these tiny pieces of cotton and transforms them into fabric. Through a chemical process, these cotton linters are dissolved to craft new fiber strands. The result is a material that echoes the luxurious feel of silk, making cupro a synthetic yet plant-based fiber, related to other fibers like rayon and Tencel.
Cupro is the best vegan silk alternative that I’ve ever worked with. It actually does a pretty decent job mimicking the subtle sheen and soft texture of silk. Cupro also tends to have excellent drape and breathability, which makes it a great choice for linings and lightweight clothing. Cupro is also considerably cheaper than silk fabric since it has an easier and cheaper production method.
Contrary to some myths I’ve seen propagated online, cupro is not made from recycled cotton shirts; its origins are specific to the linters of cotton plants. While cupro does work to reduce waste in cotton production, it is not a solution to finished textile recycling
Properties of cupro
While cupro fibers can be used for a variety of different fabrics, they still have some characteristics in common. These are the qualities that you can expect to see when wearing and working with cupro material:
- Texture: Cupro fabric has a soft, yet smooth texture that is almost silk-like.
- Drape: While the drape will depend on the weave of the fabric, cupro tends to have a fairly flowy drape, similar to rayon fabrics.
- Sheen: Cupro fabrics often bear a silk-like sheen, giving off a subtle glow.
- Breathable: Cupro get its breathability from its cotton origins, making it a great option for warmer climates.
- Fabric weight: While cupro can be used for fabrics of many different weights, its composition and properties make it especially fitting for creating lightweight fabrics.
What types of fabric is cupro used for
I most often use cupro as a lining fabric. It’s super soft, making it great for anything that goes up against the skin, including any kind of pajamas, underwear or lingerie. While more expensive than typical polyester lining, it’s still much cheaper than silk, making it a good option if you want to add a little bit of comfort to these types of clothing.
Cupro is also often used to mimic many different types of silk fabrics, including those used for elegant gowns, airy shirts, and other types of fancy garments.
Is cupro sustainable?
Cupro is a fabric that offers several eco-friendly benefits. It uses the waste of cotton plants, transforming what would be discarded into a valuable material. Since it originates from a natural material, cupro is also biodegradable, which also helps in reducing its environmental impact.
As an alternative to silk, cupro is also cruelty-free (in traditional silk productions, the chrysalis is killed when the cocoons are harvested). It is also machine washable, simplifying care and maintenance compared to silk, which often means cupro garments will last longer and be worn more frequently.
Recent changes to the industry also mean that cupro manufacturing now employs a closed-loop system, which aims to prevent chemicals from leaking into the environment and reuses the chemicals necessary to turn cotton linters into cupro fabric.
However, because cupro is a byproduct of cotton, we do have to acknowledge the conditions for workers on cotton farms, which may vary widely, and the unsustainable practices used in conventional cotton farming. Additionally, be aware of the chemicals used in the production process, which have the potential to harm workers if safety regulations are not followed.
Since it can be derived from conventionally farmed cotton, the sustainability of the source crop can be a concern. You have the option to seek out organic certified cupro for a more sustainable choice.
One way you can source cupro in a more sustainable way is to look for Oeko-Tex certified or organic cupro fabric. Bemberg cupro is also a company that is known for taking significant steps toward sustainability when it comes to manufacturing cupro fabric.
