Fabric 101: Dobby
Dobby fabric is characterized by small geometric patterns that add extra texture in the cloth. These patterns are woven into the fabric on a special loom called a dobby loom. The patterns usually include small dots, but can also have checks, stripes, or even animal or floral motifs woven into the fabric.
The distinctive appearance comes from the simple textured patterns created on the loom that are more subtle than those produced by a Jacquard loom. Fabrics designed on dobby looms have the advantage of detailed patterns without the weight or complexity of Jacquard fabrics.
Dobby fabric isn’t tied to any one fiber and can be made from a variety of materials, including cotton, silk, and synthetic fibers, giving it a broad range of uses from household items like tablecloths and bedding to apparel such as shirts and dresses.
Fabric | Dobby |
Texture? | The design sewn into the surface is usually raised enough to create a noticeable texture |
Stretch? | Non-stretch fabric |
Weight? | Typically light to medium weight, but some dobby is heavyweight, made for upholstery |
Stiff or flowy drape? | This varies significantly, usually it’s somewhat structured, but not overly so |
Typical fiber content? | Usually cotton, but it can be made from just about any fiber |
Opaque or sheer? | Opaque or semi-sheer |
Shiny? | Typically it is matte |
Fraying? | Frays but not too easily |
Cool or warm weather? | Typically better for warm or moderate weather |
What to make? | Shirting, handbags, scarfs, upholstery |
What needle to use? | Usually a universal size 70 or 80 needle, but it will vary based on the fabric |

What kind of fabric is dobby?
Dobby isn’t strictly-speaking a type of material but rather a weave technique. The base weave of the fabric can vary, but it is always created on something called a dobby loom. Various fibers can be used, such as cotton, silk, or synthetic blends.
The dobby loom allows for the weaving of small figures or textures into the fabric itself. These patterns are often geometric in nature, such as dots, checks, or stripes. While the dobby loom is limited compared to the jacquard loom, which can produce more complex designs, it excels at these simpler, yet still intricate, motifs.

A common variant you might encounter within dobby fabrics is the woven pique, which uses this specific construction to create a raised waffle-like texture.
Usually, dobby fabrics are loosely woven, which contributes to their breathability, making them an excellent choice for clothing and bedding, especially in warm climates. However, this also means that dobby will fray fairly easily, so be prepared for that if you decide to use it for your next sewing project.
What is dobby fabric used for?
Dobby fabric is mostly used for shirting, offering a subtle, sophisticated texture that adds depth and interest to dress shirts. However, dobby can be used for all kinds of apparel and accessories, including handbags, scarfs, jackets, and so on.
Dobby is not typically ideal for garments that undergo heavy use. The intricate weave is prone to snags, making it less durable than other types of fabric for daily wear items.

Properties of dobby fabric
The properties of dobby material can vary significantly from one fabric to the next. While there are certain characteristics that are usually seen in this fabric, a different weave, weight, and fiber can change the final look and feel of dobby textiles.
The properties listed below are typical of most dobby, but it’s important to understand that they can vary, and the specific traits your dobby fabric has may differ from these.
- Texture: Dobby fabric is distinctive for its noticeable raised texture, which stems from its decorative weave.
- Weight: Dobby is typically light to medium weight, however it can be woven into any weight fabric and is sometimes even made into heavy weight material that’s meant for upholstery
- Drape: Typically, dobby has a somewhat structured or moderate drape, however this can vary significantly. A rayon dobby, for example, will often be more fluid and flowy than a cotton dobby.
- Fiber: Cotton is most common fiber used with dobby fabrics, but dobby can be made using any fiber.
- Sheen: There will usually be some sheen to the patterns woven into dobby fabric.
- Fraying: Dobby fabric usually frays quite easily, so take that into account when sewing.
- Wrinkling: This largely depends on the fiber used, cotton dobby will crease more easily than polyester dobby.
- Breathable: Most dobby is fairly breathable, especially if it’s made from cotton. However, this can vary depending on the weave and fiber used. For example, polyester dobby is a lot less breathable.
- Durability: Many dobby fabrics can snag somewhat easily due to the raised design making them less durable over the long term.

How to care for dobby fabric
The care for your dobby fabric will depend largely on the type of fiber used to make it. However, most dobby can be machine washed and dried, especially if it’s cotton or polyester. You still probably want to use gentle and low heat settings to avoid snagging the dobby fabric during laundering.
Dobby fabric garments can be stored either on hangers or folded neatly in a wardrobe. The more delicate the fiber used (such as silk or rayon), the more I would opt for hanging the garments rather than storing them folded.
