How To Sew With Pile Fabric (Velvet/Velveteen/Velour/Corduroy)

Sewing with pile fabrics like velvet, velveteen, velour, and corduroy requires specific handling to avoid constant frustration. Understanding the right techniques can make all the difference and prevent you from accidentally ruining the fabric while you’re sewing.

Keeping the pile’s direction consistent throughout your project will help ensure that the final piece is visually coherent. You’ll also want to give special attention to how you press and finish your seams, as the standard methods used for smoother fabrics can easily damage the plush texture of these materials.

All that being said, velvet (and similar pile materials) is not the most difficult fabric I’ve ever sewn with. If you’re careful when cutting and pressing velvet fabric, you’ll be able to master the material in no time.

How difficult is it to sew with velvet (and similar fabrics)?

Sewing with velvet, velour, and similar pile fabrics can be a bit tricky. This is because you need to avoid crushing it while cutting, sewing, and pressing seams. The seam-pressing is the part that I always find the most difficult, so I’ve included a lot of tips to help you handle this challenge.

You’ll also face challenges with storing the fabric, since it’s quite difficult to remove creases from velvet-like material. The other important thing is to make sure the nap runs in the same direction for all pattern pieces, since piled fabric looks different depending on the orientation of the material.

Pressing velvet fabric

When you’re working with velvet, You can’t just use the iron to press your seams open like you would with any other fabric because this would end up crushing the pile. Instead, you need to find ways to support the pile and protect it while you press. Steam will also be your friend here, so it’s a big plus if you have a steam iron.

1. Avoid pressing on the right-side of the fabric

When you’re dealing with fabrics like velvet, velveteen, velour, and corduroy, you should never press directly on the right side of these fabrics. Why? The pile or texture that gives these fabrics their unique look and feel can be crushed or flattened permanently if heat and pressure are applied directly. If your material uses synthetic fibers, they will also melt pretty much as soon as they touch the iron.

For this reason, you want to only press on the wrong side of the fabric, the side that does not have a pile. You can hover the iron and use steam on the right side to let the moisture relax the fabric, but don’t touch it!

2. Use velvet remnant as a pressing cloth

Another key trick is to use a length of velvet remnant fabric as a pressing cloth. This small tip can make a significant difference in protecting the pile of the fabric while also allowing you to get sharper seams.

Here’s how you do it:

1. Find a piece of velvet (or other pile fabric) and place it face up on your ironing board.
2. Lay the velvet fabric that you’re working on face down on the velvet remnant. You want the plush sides to be touching each other.
3. Now you can press the reverse side of your garment or project without worrying about crushing the front. Why? The pile of the remnant will mesh with the pile of the fabric you are pressing, preventing the iron from crushing it.

If you don’t have any velvet remnants, don’t worry! You can sub in a fluffy towel—just make sure it’s clean and won’t transfer any lint or color. The goal is to find something with a bit of pile to it.

Remember to be gentle. Harsh pressing can flatten these textured fabrics even with a pressing cloth. You may even want to apply some heat with the iron, and then hold it with your fingers while the seam cools.

3. Consider using a needle board

You can also use a needle board to iron velvet. A needle board is a board with a lot of tiny pins sticking out of it. It holds the fabric in place, supporting the pile, while you press and iron it. The needles prevent you from crushing the delicate velvet fibers.

This makes the whole process of pressing much smoother and easier. However, needle boards are a more professional tool and can be fairly expensive for the average home sewist. So, don’t worry if you can’t get one. For the most part, a plush piece of cloth will do the trick well enough.

How to sew with pile fabrics

Beyond just pressing seams, there are some other difficulties you’ll run into when sewing with velvet and other similar fabrics. Keeping a few tailored tips in your back pocket can make all the difference. These tips will help ensure your finished piece comes out just the way you want it to.

1. Storing the pile fabric before using it

Before diving into your sewing project, proper storage of pile fabrics like velvet is key to maintaining their unique texture and appearance. Here’s how to keep them in top shape:

• Location: Find a cool, dry spot away from direct sunlight which can fade and damage the fibers.
• Rolling vs. Folding: Preferably, store your fabric rolled on a tube to prevent stubborn creases. If you must fold, do so loosely and with as few folds as possible and avoid cramming it in with too many other fabrics.
• Hanging: Alternatively, you can hang the fabric. Use a padded hanger to avoid indentations and make sure there’s enough room so the fabric doesn’t get squashed.
• Avoid Pressure: Don’t stack heavy items on top of your fabric to prevent crushing the pile.

2. Avoid crushing the pile

When you’re handling fabrics like velvet keeping the pile uncrushed is key to maintaining their perfect, textured finish. Here’s how to keep that pile perfect:

• Don’t lean on your fabric: It’s may be tempting to lean on your project for a closer look or more control while cutting your pattern pieces. The pressure can squash the pile, and it might not bounce back.
• Don’t use heavy pattern weights: Heavy pattern weights are great for some jobs, but not here. If you’re using a rotary cutter, opt for softer, fabric pattern weights. These will hold your pattern in place without pressing too hard on the pile.
• Pin inside the seam allowance: When pinning, do so within the seam allowance to avoid marking the pile or creating visible holes in the final garment.
  

3. Expect a lot of fiber shedding

When you’re working with fabrics like velvet, velveteen, velour, or corduroy, one thing’s certain: you’re going to deal with fiber shedding. This is simply part of the process, and there’s not much you can do to prevent it. This is more of a warning so you know what to expect and isn’t necessarily a problem.

In preparation, you might want to clean out the fluff from the inside of your sewing machine to avoid any potential jams or build-up of fluff (clean it after you sew with velvet too). During sewing it’s a good idea to use a lint roller or a piece of masking tape to pick up fibers as you go.

4. What kind of needle to use with velvet-like fabrics?

• Universal Needles: Normally, universal needles work fine for most pile fabrics. You’ll want to aim for a size 80 or 90 for regular velvet. They’re versatile enough to handle the pile of the fabric without damaging it.
• Heavier Fabrics: Now, if you’re dealing with thick velveteen or corduroy, you might need to go for heavy-duty needles (these may be around size 100). They’ll have the strength to pierce through multiple layers without breaking.
• Knit pile fabrics: This category is pretty much just velour and some fleece. For this you’ll want to use a stretch or jersey needle (usually size 80 or 90)

It’s a good idea to do a quick test on a scrap piece of your fabric. This way, you’ll see how the needle interacts with the material before moving to your final garment.

5. Give the presser foot less pressure

When you’re sewing with fabrics like velvet, velveteen, velour, or corduroy, the last thing you want is to crush their unique textures. To keep the pile intact, ease up on the presser foot. Usually, there’s a knob on the side or top of the machine that controls this, but refer to your sewing machine manual to learn how to adjust the settings. 

Alternatively, you can use a zipper foot when sewing velvet materials. It’s narrower and less likely to press hard on your fabric. Specifically, you can use it on the seam allowance side so you only risk flattening the portion that won’t be visible anyway.

6. Sew in the direction of the pile

When you’re working with fabrics like velvet, you’ll notice these fabrics have fibers that lean in a particular direction—that’s the pile. If you look closely, you’ll see that they want to lean one direction more than the other. Whenever possible, sew in the direction in which the pile naturally falls. Doing this helps prevent any unwanted marks, ensures a flat seam, and keeps the pile lying smoothly.

By sewing with the pile, your seams will blend better, and you’ll avoid an uneven look. Plus, you won’t have the pile caught in the seam, which could result in a ridge. It’s a simple step, but it makes all the difference in achieving a professional finished look.