Fabric 101: Hemp
Hemp fabric is a type of textile that comes from the fibers of the Cannabis sativa plant. The qualities that make hemp fabric stand out are its strength, absorbency, and its knack for resisting mold. Plus, it’s a bit of a sustainable superstar – growing hemp requires less water and land compared to other natural fibers like cotton.
Hemp fabric has a texture similar to linen and can be mixed with other natural fibers (especially cotton) to create blends, enhancing both comfort and durability. This versatile material has been used in a variety of applications, ranging from clothing and accessories to home furnishings. Moreover, hemp fabric comes with the bonus of getting softer with each wash, making it a great choice for items that see a lot of use.
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| Fabric | Hemp (or hemp-tex) |
| Texture? | Somewhat rough, but softens with washing |
| Stretch? | Typically no stretch (almost always used for woven fabrics) |
| Weight? | Varies, but usually on the medium-heavy weight end |
| Stiff or flowy drape? | Somewhat stiff drape, typically becomes more flowy over time with washing |
| Nap? | Typically not used for napped fabrics |
| Opaque or sheer? | Usually opaque, but it depends on the fabric it’s used it |
| Fiber? | Often blended with cotton for apparel-weight fabric |
| Shiny? | Typically only used for matte fabrics |
| Fraying? | Does not fray as easily as other fibers |
| Pilling? | Resistant to pilling |
| Other identifying properties? | Hemp fabric will often have slubs, but these are typically not as defined as they are in linen fabric |
| Cool or warm weather? | Better for warmer weather |
| What to make? | Apparel (including T-shirts, dresses, jackets, etc), towels, bedding, home decor, canvas, and bags |
| What needle to use? | Universal needles are usually fine, heavy weight needles may be necessary for upholstery-weight hemp fabric |
What kind of fabric is hemp?
Hemp is a type of fiber used to make fabric that is known for its durability and strength. It’s derived from the fibers of the Cannabis sativa plant and yields a fabric that’s practical for a multitude of purposes. It is most often used as a bottom-weight material or for purposes similar to canvas.
Hemp fabric also has a reputation for its sustainability, as the hemp plant requires less water and pesticides to grow compared to traditional crop plants like cotton.
When you touch hemp fabric, you’ll notice it has a similar feel to linen; coarse at first, but it becomes softer with each wash. This fabric is sturdy, highly absorbent and dries quickly.
At this point in time, hemp is frequently used blended together with cotton fibers. This gives the cotton fabric more durability, while making the hemp fibers softer and more flexible than 100% hemp fabric would be.
What can you make with hemp fabric?
Hemp fabric is a versatile material that you can use to make just about anything. Clothing is a major category, with hemp being an excellent choice for everyday shirts, dresses, and pants due to its durability and comfort.
For your home, hemp fabric offers a sustainable option for curtains, bedding, and tablecloths. The fabric’s natural resistance to mold makes it well-suited for towels too. When it comes to accessories, hemp can be woven into hats, bags, and wallets.
Properties of hemp fabric
- Texture: Hemp fabric has a texture that is similar to linen, but a little coarser. For someone like me, with sensitive skin, the initial texture of hemp is kind of itchy and unpleasant. However, like linen, hemp fabric tends to become softer with each wash.
- Elasticity: Hemp fabric, in its typical form, does not have significant stretch. Hemp fibers are long and sturdy, which contributes to the fabric’s robustness and resistance to stretching out of shape.
- Weight: Hemp’s weight varies by weave, but it is generally considered a mid-weight fabric. It provides enough heft for durability without being overly heavy.
- Drape: Initially, hemp tends to be more on the stiff side, particularly when it is in a heavier, denser weave. However, with washing and wear, hemp fibers tend to soften significantly and can have a more relaxed, flowy drape.
- Opacity: Hemp fabric is typically completely opaque. This is because hemp fibers are more commonly used to create medium-weight clothing that is meant for garments like pants, that really require opacity to maintain decency.
- Shine: Hemp is usually used to make matte fabrics with a texture that tends to be visibly organic and raw.
- Fraying: Hemp is made with long fibers that offer significant strength and can reduce the tendency to fray compared to other natural fibers. While no woven fabric is completely immune to fraying, hemp holds up admirably well.
- Durability: Hemp fabric has a strong resistance to pilling and snagging due to its robust fiber structure. The durability of hemp fibers means they withstand repeated wear and washing cycles better than many alternatives.
- Wrinkling: Hemp fabric does tend to wrinkle, as it is a natural fiber with properties similar to those of linen (which is known for its constant wrinkling). While it does not wrinkle quite as easily as linen, it will wrinkle more than synthetic fabrics.
How easy is hemp to sew?
In general, once prepped, hemp fabric is quite easy to sew, comparable in many ways to linen. Its durability means the resulting garments and items are often long-lasting, making your effort worthwhile.
When attempting to sew with hemp fabric, your experience will depend on the specific weave and fabric weight. Hemp can be a bit stiffer than cotton so you’ll likely have to use a heavier needle (usually size 90 or maybe 100). In some cases, it’s a good idea to switch to a heavy duty needle that is specifically made for sewing heavy-weight fabrics. And if you are sewing a particularly heavy hemp fabric, you may need to switch to a heavy duty sewing machine that can handle it.
It’s also a good idea to pre-wash your fabric before sewing with hemp material. It tends to shrink a bit in the laundry, so to avoid fit issues after the fact, it’s a good idea to run it through the washer and dryer before cutting and sewing.
How to care for hemp fabric
Hemp is an extremely durable material. You generally don’t have to worry much about putting the fabric through the washer and dryer on a standard setting, but be aware that it can shrink if you do not pre-wash your fabric.
Hemp can also stand up to high heat when it comes to ironing. You should be able to use the linen setting on your iron when working with hemp fabric, but of course, it’s best to test a scrap piece of material first to make sure the heat setting won’t burn the fabric.
Environmental impact of hemp fabric
Hemp is recognized for its low environmental impact. Overall, it’s considered to be a highly sustainable plant, making hemp fabric, and hemp fabric blends an eco friendly choice. Your choice for hemp fabric benefits the planet in various ways:
- Reduced Water Usage: Hemp cultivation generally requires less water when compared to cotton.
- Minimal Chemicals: Hemp is less vulnerable to disease and pests, thus typically grown with fewer pesticides.
- Soil Health: Hemp also has a deep root system that prevents soil erosion, maintaining healthier agricultural land.
- CO2 Absorption: The fast growth rate of hemp enables it to absorb significant amounts of CO2 from the atmosphere, more so than many other crops.
- Biodegradable: Hemp fabric is fully biodegradable. When it reaches the end of its lifecycle, it decomposes, adding beneficial nutrients back into the soil without leaving harmful residues.
