How To Sew With Spandex Fabric
Sewing with spandex fabric can be a daunting endeavor if you’re not familiar with the stretchy nature of this material. Since it’s a synthetic fabric known for its extremely elastic properties, spandex requires some special considerations when you’re stitching it into garments. Many people will choose to use a serger for this fabric, but if you don’t have one you can still use a standard sewing machine and get good results.
To start off on the right foot, you’ll want to select the appropriate tools. For instance, using a stretch needle with your sewing machine instead of a regular sharp needle prevents snags and allows for smoother stitching through the fabric. Also, setting your sewing machine to a zigzag stitch will accommodate the fabric’s stretch while maintaining the seam’s strength.
- Learn more about the properties and usage of spandex fabric
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How to sew with spandex fabric
Working with spandex fabric can be a bit tricky. There are a lot of different aspects to think about when troubleshooting problems with sewing spandex. I can’t give you the exact setting for your machine, since all sewing machines will work slightly differently. However, these are the main areas to think about and adjust as you test the setting with some extra scraps of spandex.
1. Pay attention to crosswise vs. lengthwise stretch
Before you cut out your spandex pattern pieces, pay attention to how stretchy the fabric is horizontally across the fabric versus the stretch along the length. If you are making a garment that requires a high amount of stretch, you want to make sure the pattern pieces are positioned properly on the spandex material.
Spandex (like all stretch fabrics) will have more elasticity crosswise than it will lengthwise. So you want to make sure the stretch is going across the pattern pieces so it will stretch all the way around your body when you’re finished. If you’re not careful and cut it the wrong way, the final garment might be too tight to fit.
2. What type of needle should you use?
This one is extremely important! You must change the needle in your machine if you want to sew with spandex. This will help prevent skipped stitches, puckering, and snags and tears in the fabric. I reiterate, do not use a universal needle when sewing with spandex.
I recommend using a stretch needle. This type of needle has a specially designed eye and rounded point that minimizes skipped stitches and avoids damaging the elastic fibers, which are a common problem when working with elastic fabrics like spandex. (You can use a jersey or ballpoint needle if that’s all you have, but I’ve found that these don’t work as well as a stretch needle.)
For most spandex blends, a smaller needle (size 80/11) is perfect, but for heavier materials, you may need to go up a size.
If you find that you’re still experiencing skipped stitches or fabric damage, double-check your needle is installed correctly, and consider experimenting with a different size. You’ll also probably need to adjust other settings on your machine, such as the presser foot pressure and thread tension.
3. Using a zigzag stitch with spandex
When working with spandex, you need your seams to stretch with your material. If you try to sew a straight stitch and then stretch the seam, the thread will snap. This is why you always want to use a zigzag stitch when sewing spandex.
Most sewing machines have some sort of zigzag stitch you can use (even older machines). Many newer machines have a “lighting bolt” zigzag that is even better because it makes the seam look smoother once pressed.
Before diving into your project, always test the stitch settings on a scrap piece of spandex. Adjust the length and width settings for the zig zag stitch. You’re looking for a sweet spot where the stitch is narrow enough to be discreet, yet wide enough to maintain the fabric’s stretch.
- Stitch Length: Short but not too tiny (usually 2-3). You don’t want the stitches to leave visible gaps in the seam, but they can’t be so small they cause the seam to pucker.
- Stitch Width: Wide enough to allow for stretch. The more elastic the seam needs to be, the wider the stitch length needs to be set. Adjust and test by stretching the fabric until you find a setting that keeps the seam intact without snapping.
4. How to press spandex fabric
Your iron’s heat setting should be on low. Spandex and high heat don’t mix well. A too hot iron risks melting the fabric. As always, I recommend testing your iron settings on a scrap piece of fabric before trying to press your garment seams.
I highly recommend using a press cloth with spandex, since often it’s difficult to get nice creases at the seams with the iron on low enough settings. By using a cotton press cloth (which can be any cotton remnant fabric you have), you can increase the heat on your iron without melting the spandex.
5. Decrease the presser foot pressure
Dial down the pressure on your presser foot. Usually this is a little knob on the side or top of the sewing machine, but refer to your machine manual if you can’t find it. This little adjustment wil help prevent extra stretching while you’re sewing a seam.
The lower pressure lets the fabric move under the presser foot more easily and evenly. This can also help a lot in preventing that dreaded wavy ‘bacon’ effect along your seams.
6. Adjusting machine settings for thread tension
The other machine adjustment you’ll have to make is the thread tension. This is the part that can get really finicky, and can vary dramatically from one machine to another.
For most machines, you want to slightly lower the top thread tension. Try starting with something around 2 or 3, then test it and adjust from there. The heavier the spandex fabric is, the more tension it will likely need.
But as I said, the ideal settings may vary based on your specific machine and the spandex blend. Start with these guidelines, then test on a scrap piece first. Adjust incrementally until you get smooth seams that maintain the stretch of the fabric without snapping.
7. How to keep spandex from stretching out while you sew
One of the main issues with spandex is that it tend to stretch out as it goes through the feed dogs and under the presser foot. Even with all the adjustments made to your machine, it might not be enough to prevent a stretched out seam.
First, don’t judge a seam until you’ve ironed it. If there is just a little bit of stretch to the seam, it often just needs to settle back into place. Try to iron and press the seam and see if that simple step solves your issues.
If you’re still having trouble, try some of these tips to help you get smoother seams.
- Walking Foot or Knit Presser Foot: These gadgets work wonders. A walking foot helps evenly feed the stretchy spandex through the machine, while a knit presser foot is specifically designed to handle stretch fabrics without slipping.
- Wash-Away Tape: This stuff temporarily holds fabric in place preventing it from stretching. Just stick the wash-away tape between the two layers of fabric and sew over top of it. Once you’re done, it dissolves in water without a trace. I find this can gunk up the needle a little bit though, so even though it works well, it’s not my preferred method.
- The Tissue Paper Method:
- Place tissue paper under the spandex.
- Sew your seams with the tissue paper in place.
- Gently tear away the paper when finished.
- Hand-Basting: Taking the time to hand-baste your seams before you sew might seem like a lot of effort, but it’s often worth it. Thread basting provides extra control and ensures your fabric won’t shift mid-seam.
- Use a Serger: If you’ve got one, a serger is your best friend for sewing with spandex. It stitches while trimming the fabric and finishing the edge, which helps prevent stretching out.
How to solve the problem of stitch skipping with spandex fabric
The reason I find spandex fabric so troublesome to work with is because of its tendency to cause stitches to skip. I was working with one spandex fabric where almost every single stitch would not hold in the fabric, and I could not figure out why or what settings I needed to put my machine on.
In most cases, the first thing to do is change the needle to a stretch or ballpoint needle. These needles are specifically designed to work with the elasticity of spandex, reducing skipped stitches.
However, I learned that this does not always solve the problem. I don’t know what it was, but the only way I was able to prevent skipped stitches with this particular spandex material was by adding a stabilizer.
You can use stay tape, wash away tape, or the tissue paper method I mentioned above. This extra layer of paper or tape helps the thread stick more easily, preventing all those skipped stitches.
The other tip I have is to slow down your machine. If your sewing machine is zooming along with your pedal to the metal, you are much more likely to get skipped stitches.