Fabric 101: Modal
Modal is a type of plant-based, synthetic fiber made from the pulp of beech trees. This is a slightly more eco-friendly version of rayon fiber that is most often used to make soft knits, especially jersey fabric. Modal is still an up-and-coming fiber, so you still don’t see it all that frequently, but since it’s one of the fabrics that’s often seen on sustainability lists, I figured it was worth exploring (skip to the end of this article for more information on modal and sustainability)
What is modal fabric?
Modal fabric is a high-quality material known for its softness, flexibility, and strength. It falls under the category of rayon fibers, which are semi-synthetic in nature because they are derived from a plant-based source, but the fibers are manufactured and extracted using a man-made process.
Modal fibers are created wood material (usually beech trees) that is formed into a liquid pulp and extracted into threads through a chemical process. The production process for modal is typically more environmentally conscious than the more common viscose rayon because it features a closed loop system that recycles water and solvents.
While modal fibers can be used to create just about any type of fabric, nine times out of ten, you’ll find that modal is a knit jersey fabric. The end product is a fabric that is known for being comfortable, breathable, and moisture wicking. These qualities mean it’s most often used for loungewear and athleisure, as well as comfortable undergarments.
Properties of modal fabric
- Type of fabric: Usually modal is used as a knit fabric (especially for jersey), but the fiber can be used for wovens as well, especially when it’s being used as a silk alternative.
- Texture: Modal is known for being exceptionally soft and breathable, creating garments that feel gentle and airy against your skin.
- Resistant to shrinkage: Unlike other rayon fabrics, this fiber is particularly resistant to shrinkage, maintaining its shape and size after multiple washes.
- Highly moisture absorbent: This makes the fabric comfortable to wear when exercising since it can absorb your sweat, but it also means the fabric is easy to dye, allowing for vibrant colors that last.
- Durable material: Modal is also quite strong and durable compared to viscose rayon, and is able to maintain (and even increase) its tensile strength when wet.
- Fabric weight: Typically modal is used to make fabric that is on the lightweight side of the spectrum, but this can vary.
- Wrinkle resistance: Modal is somewhat wrinkle resistant, but it will still wrinkle a little.
In my opinion, modal is actually very similar to cotton jersey, but with a little bit softer, smoother texture and a slightly more fluid drape.
Caring for modal fabric
When handling modal fabric, you are dealing with a material that’s both durable and easy to care for. This fabric can typically be safely machine washed and dried, allowing for convenient maintenance.
Modal’s resilience comes from fibers that are stronger than those of the more common viscose rayon, meaning it’s well-equipped to handle the routine wear of regular laundering. It’s unlikely to rip, warp, or shrink in the wash.
I still wash my modal fabric in cold water and dry it on low heat settings, but I do this with most of my clothing, so use whatever your standard washing practices are.
You need to be a little more careful when ironing and pressing modal fabric. It will burn if you use too-high heat (use the silk settings on your iron), and (like most knit fabrics) you can stretch out the fabric if you iron too vigorously. Consider using a pressing cloth to prevent issues when ironing.
Modal and sustainability
In theory, modal is a fairly sustainable type of fiber used for fabric. It’s biodegradable, and when created responsibly, modal is sustainably sourced from beech trees and other types of fast growing wood (like bamboo modal).
It’s also supposed to use a closed loop chemical system, which means most of the chemicals used to process Modal can be captured and reused indefinitely, rather than being expelled into the environment.
The problem is that not all companies strictly adhere to these ideals. Less reputable manufacturers have been accused of cutting down areas of rainforest to make way for lumber plantations to use for modal production. Some manufacturers also tend to be less careful with the chemicals, letting much of it leak into surrounding ecosystems rather than committing to the closed-loop system.
In addition, there is the worker’s health that we need to consider. While the chemicals used in manufacturing modal are less dangerous than with viscose rayon, they can still have a significant negative impact on human health over time. Safe working conditions are crucial; without them, workers could be exposed to harmful substances.
All this is to say that not all modal material is created equal. We need to be very careful about where we get modal fabric if we want it to be a sustainable option. Look for fabric that is FSC (Forest Stewardship Council) certified and has a transparent production process to be sure it’s manufactured with sustainable practices in mind.
One type of modal that comes from a company that is known for being at the forefront of sustainable modal production is Lenzing Modal (also TENCEL Modal). While this type of modal is typically more expensive, you can also be sure you’re getting the most environmentally friendly version of the fabric.
More more information on the sustainability of modal fabric, I recommend checking out Good on You’s analysis of the fiber
