Fabric 101: Jersey Knit

Jersey is a category of knit fabrics that is known for being fairly lightweight while also having a flowy drape. Most jersey fabrics will be highly stretchy on the cross grain with a little stretch along the length of the fabric too, but that can vary dramatically depending on the type of jersey you have and the material it’s made from.

Jersey is one of the most common types of fabric that is used in garments, and it’s probably the most comfortable (in my own humble opinion). You can use jersey fabric in almost any type of sewing project from flowing skirts to T-shirts. So if you’re just getting started on your sewing journey, jersey is a great fabric to understand and learn how to sew with.

Fabric	Jersey knit
Texture?	Typically smooth or with a cotton-like texture (think T-shirt texture)
Stretch?	Usually 25%-50% crosswise stretch, sometimes much more. Usually, there is some lengthwise stretch as well, about 10%
Heavy or light?	Medium to lightweight
Stiff or drape?	Drapey and flowy
Nap?	There is no nap
Typical fiber content?	It can be made from any fiber, but cotton and polyester are the most common
Opaque or sheer?	Mostly opaque, but some lightweight jersey can be semi-sheer
Shiny?	Most jersey is matte, not shiny
Fraying?	Jersey is a knit fabric, so it doesn’t fray
Pilling?	Most jersey pills fairly easily, it depends on the weave and fiber content
Other identifying properties?	Jersey is a single-layer knit fabric, and the edges will curl inward when stretched
Cool or warm weather?	Most jersey is better for warmer weather, but it depends on the fiber and weave.
What to make?	Most well known for being used in T-shirts and casual clothing, but jersey is extremely versatile and can be used for almost any kind of garment.
What needle to use?	Use a ballpoint (or jersey) needle, size 70, 80, or 90 depending on the fabric and sewing machine settings.

What kind of fabric is jersey?

Jersey is a fairly broad group that encompasses fabrics made up of a single layer of knitted yarns (a single-knit fabric). The front and back sides of the fabric are slightly different, so you will have a visible right and wrong side when sewing garments together.

Since it’s just a single layer, jersey fabric is usually fairly lightweight and breathable. It also tends to be quite stretchy, especially across the width, with a lovely drape that is nice and flowy. These qualities all make jersey one of the most comfortable fabrics to wear, and it’s very commonly used in all types of fashion.

What can you make with jersey fabric?

You can make pretty much any kind of garment using jersey fabric. It is easily one of the most versatile and comfortable types of fabric to wear. The most common use for jersey fabric is T-shirts and undergarments (like camisoles, tanks, underwear, etc.). However, it’s also used in athletic and activewear (especially jersey fabric that uses spandex fiber), and you can create lovely blouses, skirts, and dresses that don’t require zippers or closures. Some bedding (sheets, pillowcases, etc.) also uses jersey fabric.

Properties of jersey knit fabric

• Texture: The texture of jersey fabric depends on the type of fiber that is used to create it. Cotton is the most common fiber used to make jersey, and this creates that very slight fuzzy texture that is characteristic of your standard T-shirt. Polyester jersey will be smoother to the touch, while wool jersey will have a slightly fuzzier texture.
• Stretch: You can expect most jersey to have a 25%-50% stretch across the grain with a 5%-15% stretch along the length of the fabric. Jersey fabrics that include a percentage of spandex are more elastic.
• Weight: Most types of jersey fabric are fairly lightweight. T-shirt weight is about as heavy as jersey gets, so I would put it in the light to medium-weight category of fabrics.
• Drape: Jersey has a nice flowy drape to it. It’s not going to be light and airy, but it’s the kind of fabric that you can swish and twirl in when you make a skirt out of it.
• Fiber composition: Jersey can be made from just about any kind of fiber. Cotton jersey and cotton blends of jersey (cotton with polyester or spandex usually) are by far the most common, but polyester jersey is also normal to find. Less frequently you’ll find wool jersey and rayon jersey too.
• Opacity: Most jersey fabrics are meant to be more or less opaque. Sometimes jersey fabrics that are on the lightweight end of the scale and are light colored end up being a little bit see-through.
• Shinny: Jersey is typically a matte fabric. Sometimes the fiber used will give the jersey fabric a very slight sheen when the light hits it just right, especially for synthetic jersey fabrics.
• Fraying: Because knit fabrics are manufactured differently than standard woven fabrics, they do not fray. That being said, I’ve known some types of jersey fabrics that tended to shed fibers along the edges.
• Pilling: Jersey fabric pills fairly easily. In general knit fabrics are more prone to pilling and pulling than woven fabrics. It’s also easy for the fabric to catch and get holes in it.
• Wrinkling: Jersey is a somewhat wrinkle-resistant fabric. It will still wrinkle a little, depending on the fiber it is made from. Polyester jersey is very wrinkle-resistant, whereas cotton and rayon jersey will still wrinkle if it’s not stored properly.
• Edge curling: If you have some knit fabric and are trying to tell if it’s jersey or not, try stretching one edge of the fabric. If the edges curl, it is a type of jersey fabric.
• Breathability: Jersey tends to be fairly breathable, even when made from notoriously stifling fibers, like polyester. That being said, jersey made from cotton or natural fibers will be more breathable than jersey made from synthetic fibers.

How to sew with jersey fabric

Jersey fabric is a little frustrating to sew on a standard sewing machine, especially if you’re a beginner. If you’re not careful, the fabric will stretch out as it goes through the feed teeth of the sewing machine, leaving you with an ugly, wavy seam when you’re finished.

The standard advice to fix this problem is to use a serger (or overlock machine). As a general rule, it’s the best way to sew knit fabrics because it helps to feed the fabric through evenly, preventing it from stretching out.

Personally, I do not have a serger yet (I’m still saving up for one). I can attest that it’s definitely possible to sew jersey and other stretch fabrics with a regular sewing machine if you’re willing to problem-solve and test out different settings on your sewing machine. Try some of these techniques (on a scrap piece of fabric) to find what works for you:

• Use a walking foot on your sewing machine
• Use a knit presser foot
• Apply wash-away tape to the seam before sewing
• Place a piece of tissue paper on top of the seam as you sew

Knit fabrics also require you to use a different type of needle in your machine. You’ll want to get ballpoint needles (also called jersey needles) to work with your fabric. I generally use a size 70 or 80 depending on how thick the jersey I’m working with it.

You also want to take the elasticity of the fabric into account with your stitches. To do this, you’ll want to switch to the zig-zag or lightning bolt stitch options.