Fabric 101: Muslin 

Muslin is a lightweight, breathable fabric (traditionally cotton) with a long history that traces back to ancient times. It is almost always sold as an undyed material with a natural, off-white color (but you can find bleached muslin as well).

In sewing, muslin is most well known for being the fabric of choice for mock-up designs. You may even hear someone refer to their preliminary design or project as ‘a muslin’ because of the frequency with which this material is used for mock ups of designs. However, muslin material can actually be used for quite a variety of purposes, from home decor to quilting and crafts.

Fabric	Muslin
Texture?	Typically smooth and soft, low-quality muslin will have a more scratchy texture
Stretch?	No stretch, quite structured
Weight?	Usually light to medium weight (typically somewhere between 100-150gms)
Stiff or flowy drape?	Moderate drape between stiff and flowy
Nap?	No nap or fuzzy texture
Typical fiber content?	Usually cotton, but can be made from various fibers
Opaque or sheer?	Mostly opaque, but sometimes semi-sheer
Shiny?	Muslin is a matte fabric
Fraying?	Expect a normal amount of fraying
Pilling?	Muslin is not prone to pilling
Other identifying properties?	Most muslin is bought in as a natural off-white color, or bleached white.
Cool or warm weather?	Usually better for warmer weather or as a lining for cold-weather garments
What to make?	Muslin is best known for making mock-ups of designs, but it can also be used for home decor, quilt backing, linings, or even some lightweight clothing
What needle to use?	A universal size 80 or 90 needle is typically best

What kind of fabric is muslin?

Muslin is usually a lightweight, balanced plain-woven cotton fabric, traditionally known for its breathability and delicate hand, but it can be found in a variety of weights. This fabric ranges from coarse to very fine textures but typically has a soft, slightly gauzy appearance. While muslin can be dyed or printed, you’re most likely to find it in its natural off-white state, or bleached white.

While higher quality muslin fabrics can be used for garments, it is most well known for its use in mockups and backdrops. Muslin became the go-to fabric for mockups primarily because it is an inexpensive, plain weave cotton fabric that is easy to work with. Its affordability means that designers and tailors can experiment with patterns and designs without the fear of wasting expensive materials.

Additionally, muslin is lightweight and has a fine, smooth texture, which makes it ideal for draping and pinning. It also holds its shape well, which is great when creating prototypes for garments.

What can you make with muslin fabric?

As mentioned earlier, muslin is most well-known for its use in mockups due to the fabric’s affordability. However, muslin can also be used in actual garments, especially lightweight summer clothing such as dresses, shirts, and skirts.

Muslin is also frequently used as a backing for quilting projects, and can be used as swaddle blankets for babies. In cooking, muslin cloth can be used to strain sauces and making spice bags, and muslin can also be used for bandages in a medical setting.

Properties of muslin fabric

• Texture: Muslin has a fairly gentle and soft texture. However, this can vary depending on the quality of the muslin. Lower quality material will end up having a much coarser texture with a grainier feel to it. 
• Elasticity: Muslin is not a stretch fabric. It’s a woven material that is pretty much always made from 100% cotton with none of the spandex or elastane fibers that would be necessary to make the woven fabric stretch.
• Weight: Muslin is generally a lightweight material. This quality stems from its low thread count and loose weave (which also make it an affordable material). However, you can find muslin that is even more lightweight, and some that is medium weight material depending on the exact weave and threadcount.
• Drape: Most muslin will have a moderate drape that is somewhere in between stiff and flowy. You may find lighter muslin drapes more gracefully, while heavier muslin is quite stiff and structured.
• Fiber composition: Muslin fabric is traditionally woven from cotton. I’ve seen linen “muslin” which was a linen material made to look like typical muslin, and I’ve heard that poly “muslin” (polyester) exists, but have never actually seen it in a store.
• Opacity: Muslin can range from semi-sheer to mostly opaque. This characteristic is influenced by the thread count and weave density; higher thread counts typically yield a less transparent fabric.
• Shine: Muslin is not typically shiny fabric. It is known for its matte, unbleached, and natural appearance.
• Fraying: While muslin is not the type of fabric that will seem like it disintegrates while you sew it, most muslin will still fray fairly easily if the edges are left unfinished. This is particularly noticeable in the more lightweight versions of the material.
• Durability: Muslin fabric is generally not prone to snagging or pilling due to its balanced plain weave and relatively smooth surface. The fabric is fairly durable, but will still warp out of shape over time and wear.
• Wrinkling: Since muslin is a type of cotton fabric, it is known to wrinkle fairly easily. Like most cottons, it is prone to creasing and wrinkling when folded, crushed, or worn.

How easy is muslin to sew?

Muslin is recommended for beginners because it’s fairly easy to sew and handle. It is substantial enough to stand on its own, yet simple enough for you to manipulate with ease.

When you’re working with muslin, you’ll find that it’s forgiving, resisting puckering when sewn. If you make a mistake, your needle holes will not be as prominent, which allows for corrections without significant damage to the fabric’s appearance.

You can also employ muslin for practice runs of more complex patterns before committing to expensive fabric. This helps you understand the construction process and identify any fitting issues. Overall, muslin is a reliable choice that allows you to focus on your technique and build sewing confidence.