Fabric 101: Cotton

As most people know, cotton is a natural fiber that comes from the cotton plant. Cotton is the fiber that is used to create many different kinds of fabrics. You know those individual yarns that are used to create materials? That’s the cotton fiber, the way those yarns are woven together create different kinds of material, when it be cotton jersey (think T-shirt material), cotton twill (pants material), cotton canvas and so on.

Cotton is the most widely used natural fiber in garment making, and is used for a wide variety of clothing, bedding and other textile products. The structure of cotton fiber is inherently strong and soft, which contributes to its durability, comfort, and versatility.

Properties and common uses of cotton fabric

Cotton is a natural, plant-based textile that originates from the fluffy fibers surrounding the seeds of cotton plants. This fabric is the most commonly used plant fiber in the world. While cotton can be woven into many different types of fabric, the fiber still retains many of the same properties throughout. These include:

1. Breathability: Cotton allows you to stay comfortable and cool as it doesn’t trap heat.
2. Softness: A hallmark of cotton is its inherent soft and slightly fuzzy feel, which makes it a preferred fabric for comfortable, everyday wear and household textiles.
3. Durability: Strong fibers make cotton a durable choice for long-lasting clothing and linens.
4. Absorbency: Cotton has a high moisture-absorbing capacity. It can easily wick away sweat from your body, absorbing it and facilitating quick evaporation. High absorbency also makes it a prime candidate for towels and workout attire.
5. Structured drape: Cotton tends to have a stiffer and more structured drape than other types of fabric. 
6. Wrinkles easily: 100% cotton will wrinkle fairly easily and may require frequent ironing or steaming. However, many cotton garments today are also blended with polyester or go through chemical treatments to improve wrinkle resistance.

Cotton’s popularity isn’t just based on its physical qualities. It’s also highly versatile in terms of style, functionality, and use. From lightweight cotton voiles to heavy-duty canvas, there’s a type for every need.

Common types of cotton fabric

Cotton fabric is versatile and comes in an array of types to suit various purposes. Here, you’ll get to know some of the most common types you may encounter.

• Broadcloth: This is a densely woven fabric with a somewhat lustrous surface, ideal for structured shirts and dresses.
• Poplin: Similar to broadcloth, poplin has a crisper feel and is often used in dress shirts and casual wear.
• Lawn: Recognizable by its soft, fine texture, lawn is a lightweight cotton used for blouses and summer dresses. It is somewhat flowier than other types of cotton fabric.
• Quilting cotton: With a sturdy structure, this type is designed for quilt making but also serves well for crafts, homewear (such as pillow cases), and some stiffer, more structured garments.
• Canvas: Known for its durability, canvas is typically used for items that require a robust fabric such as bags and shoes.
• Batiste: Lightweight and breathable, similar to cotton lawn, batiste is perfect for delicate clothing and undergarments.
• Voile: Sheer and light, voile is a lightweight crisp cotton that is often chosen for soft, airy summer blouses and dresses.
• Flannel: This soft, warm fabric is brushed on one or both sides, ideal for cozy clothing or bedding.
• Corduroy: Recognized by its ridged, velvet-like texture or “wales,” corduroy is a popular choice for pants and jackets.
• Denim: The backbone of jeans, denim is a hardwearing fabric with a distinctive indigo blue color.
• Seersucker: Its puckered texture offers a casual look and feel, a classic for summer wear.
• Chambray: With a plain-weave construction, chambray looks like denim but is lighter and often used for shirts rather than heavy pants.
• Muslin: Usually unbleached and used for making garment mockups in the sewing industry, muslin ranges from lightweight to heavyweight and serves various uses from dressmaking to upholstery.

Sewing with cotton

Cotton is one of the easiest fibers to start sewing with. For most beginners, picking a light to medium weight cotton fabric is the best choice because it presents a balance between manageability and versatility. The fabric is structured enough to make it easily manageable while you learn how to use your sewing machine and understand garment construction.

For the most part you can use the default settings when working with cotton fabric. A standard universal needle will work fine, (size 80, it’s probably what your machine is already using), and whatever standard all-purpose thread you can find will work well with cotton fabric. Similarly, your default straight stitch settings will probably be perfect for working with cotton fabric.

The only thing you may want to do is pre-wash your fabric. Sometimes cotton material will shrink in the laundry. While most fabric that’s sold nowadays is already pre-shrunk, it can still shrink another 5-10% when it’s first laundered and dried, so it’s good to get into the habit of pre-washing fabric before you sew with it.

Caring for cotton fabric

Cotton is also known for being a type of fiber that is durable and easy to care for. No expensive dry cleaning bills are necessary with this fabric. 

Cotton fabrics are quite resilient and can withstand a variety of washing machine settings. For general care, use cold water and a normal cycle. If dealing with a more delicate cotton fabric (such as voile or lawn), opt for a gentle cycle to prevent shrinkage or damage. It’s also a good idea to separate colors since cotton fabrics are known to bleed in the wash. After washing, cotton can be tumble dried on a low or medium heat. 

When ironing, cotton can handle a high heat setting on your iron. You can also use the steam function liberally to relax the fibers, making it easier to smooth out creases. Keep in mind that despite cotton’s durability, excessive heat from an iron can cause burn marks so avoid keeping the iron in one place for too long.

Cotton and sustainability

Even though it’s a natural and biodegradable fabric, conventional cotton is generally not considered to be a sustainable fabric. 

Conventional cotton relies heavily on chemical pesticides (which have a tendency to run off and contaminate local water sources), uses a lot of water in farming, and uses a significant amount of energy when manufacturing the cotton plant into usable cotton fibers. Conventional cotton farming is also known for having questionable (at best) labor practices that take advantage of farmers in low income areas.

An alternative to conventional cotton is organic cotton. I’ll be honest, I’m not usually one to pay too much attention to organic vs conventional in the grocery store, but in the case of cotton textiles it’s very important. Not only is organic cotton grown in more socially responsible ways, but it also uses significantly less water and more sustainable growing practices. 

To learn more about organic vs conventional cotton and why I recommend opting for certified organic textiles whenever possible, check out my article that goes into a deep dive on this issue.