Fabric 101: Seersucker 

Seersucker is a type of fabric with a bubbly or puckered texture. The material is known for its breathability, cooling properties, and comfort, making it a popular material in hot climates. It is also a fairly durable fabric that is easy to clean and maintain.

Despite its textured surface, seersucker is typically fairly easy to sew with. You can iron and press the fabric as normal. Due to the way the fabric is woven together, the bubbly texture should return after the garment has been washed and dried.

Fabric	Seersucker
Texture?	Puckered texture
Stretch?	A small amount of give to the fabric
Heavy or light?	Generally fairly lightweight, sometimes more medium-weight
Stiff or flowy drape?	Typically a fairly stiff drape
Nap?	Not napped
Typical fiber content?	Usually cotton, but can also be other fibers like polyester
Opaque or sheer?	Can be sheer or opaque
Shiny?	Matte fabric
Fraying?	Somewhat resistant to fraying
Pilling or snagging?	Generally resistant to pilling and snagging
Colors and patterns?	Seersucker is often associated with pinstripes or railroad stripes, but it can have any type of pattern printed on it
Other identifying properties?	Seersucker has a distinct puckered surface that looks almost like bubbles
Cool or warm weather?	Generally better for warmer weather
What to make?	Summer clothing, including suits, dresses, shirts, shorts, and skirts, it can also be used for curtains and tablecloths
What needle to use?	Standard universal needles

What kind of fabric is seersucker?

Seersucker is a type of fabric primarily made from cotton fibers. The unique puckered texture of seersucker is achieved through the weaving process. While typically woven from cotton, seersucker can also be blended with synthetic fibers for added durability and wrinkle resistance.

Traditional seersucker consists of alternating narrow stripes of smooth and crinkled fabric, resulting in a breathable, lightweight material. However, it can be found in many different colors and designs now.

 Seersucker gained popularity in the West during the 19th century when it was introduced as a lightweight summer fabric with its signature puckered texture. It became synonymous with relaxed summer style, practicality, and a touch of Southern charm.

The fabric lost some popularity with the increased availability of air conditioning and cheap fabrics in the latter half of the 20th century. However, it’s still considered a comfortable and classic type of fabric.

What can you make with seersucker fabric?

Historically, seersucker fabric is used for summer suits and work uniforms. However, its  lightweight, breathable qualities make it a good option for all types of warm-weather clothing. Some popular options include seersucker blazers, dresses, skirts, pants, and shorts. Seersucker is also commonly used for accessories like ties, bowties, handkerchiefs, and headbands. Its versatility and comfort make it a great choice for both formal and casual clothing.

Properties of seersucker fabric

• Texture: Seersucker fabric has a unique, slightly rough, and bubbly texture due to its puckered weaving style. The puckered texture creates small wrinkles and ridges throughout the fabric’s surface. The intensity of the puckering texture can vary.
• Flexibility: While not a stretch fabric, seersucker has some amount of give. The puckered texture of seersucker allows for some flexibility since it can stretch and bounce to accommodate movement.
• Weight: Seersucker fabric is generally light to medium weight. Its weight can vary depending on the specific blend and construction.
• Drape: Seersucker fabric typically has more of a moderate drape rather than a fully flowy or fluid one. While not as stiff as some other fabrics, such as denim or canvas, seersucker generally maintains a moderate level of structure due.
• Fiber composition: Seersucker fabric is typically made from cotton or cotton blends.
• Opacity: While most seersucker fabrics are opaque and do not allow much light to pass through, others can have a more sheer or semi-transparent quality. The opacity of seersucker depends on factors such as the density of the weave, the composition of the fabric, and the specific color or pattern.
• Shine: Seersucker fabric has a more matte or dull finish.
• Fraying: Seersucker fabric typically has good fraying resistance. However, types of seersucker fabric with looser weaves will fray more easily.
• Durability: The tight weave and texture of seersucker help minimize friction between fibers, reducing the likelihood of snagging or ripping, making it a fairly durable type of material.
• Wrinkling: Seersucker fabric has a natural wrinkle-resistant quality due to its bubbly, puckered construction. These characteristic wrinkles in seersucker fabric help to mask and minimize the appearance of additional wrinkles that may occur from wearing or folding. 
• Breathability: Seersucker’s texture allows air to circulate more freely, promoting ventilation and helping to keep the wearer cool and comfortable. Seersucker’s moisture-wicking properties also contribute to its suitability for warm weather, as it can help absorb and evaporate perspiration more efficiently.

What to Know before sewing with seersucker

Seersucker fabric is considered relatively easy to sew with, making it a suitable choice for sewers of all different skill levels. The puckered texture of seersucker can help hide minor imperfections and stitches, making it forgiving for beginners, and it’s overall a pretty stable fabric. Seersucker is also not prone to fraying too much, so standard seam finishes are good enough.

The only thing that may pose some difficulty with seersucker is when you cut out the pattern pieces. The bubbly texture can end up causing some uneven edges when you cut it. I find it’s easiest to use pattern weights and a rotary cutter, rather than trying to pin the pattern and use fabric shears. (to use a rotary cutter, you’ll need a cutting mat, so you don’t damage the surface of your table or floor)

A standard universal needle will work perfectly fine for seersucker fabric. Use size 70 or 80 depending on how lightweight the material is. However, if you’re dealing with a particularly lightweight or fine seersucker, a sharp or microtex needle may be preferable to ensure precise and clean stitches.

How to care for seersucker fabric

In general, seersucker is easy to care for. You can wash the material in a standard washing machine. You can also machine dry the seersucker garment. If you didn’t pre-wash the fabric, there’s a chance it can shrink in the dryer heat, so be cautious of that. You can always choose to air dry if you’re concerned. After it’s dried, seersucker will bounce back to its usual puckered, bubbly texture on its own.

Can you iron seersucker?

Usually the bubble texture of seersucker means it doesn’t really wrinkle, but if you have some harsh creases in your seersucker garments it is okay to iron it. Note that this will temporarily reduce the appearance of the crinkled texture that seersucker is known for, but the texture will eventually bounce back after some time (or after another wash cycle).