Fabric 101: Tencel
Tencel is a type of fiber that is gaining popularity, especially among eco-conscious brands and consumers. It is a type of rayon, meaning it’s a synthetic fiber that is sources from natural resources (in this case mostly birch and eucalyptus trees). But Tencel sets itself apart from other types of rayon become it sources it’s wood responsibly and the chemical process for turning wood into fibers is safer and less toxic that pretty much all other types of rayon.
The process of creating Tencel involves dissolving wood pulp with a non-toxic organic solvent. The resulting solution is extruded through fine holes to produce the fibers. The chemicals used in the process can then be recycled and reused in a closed-loop process, reducing harmful waste.
| Fabric | Tencel (lyocell and modal) |
| Texture? | Very soft |
| Stretch? | Depends on the fabric type |
| Weight? | Varies, but is more often a light to medium-weight fabric |
| Stiff or flowy drape? | Fairly flowy drape |
| Opaque or sheer? | Typically opaque but it can be sheer or semi-sheer as well |
| Shiny? | Most tencel fabrics will have a slight sheen |
| Fraying? | Expect a standard amount of fraying for woven fabrics |
| Pilling? | Somewhat resistant to pilling |
| Cool or warm weather? | Depends on the specific type of fabric the tencel is used for |
| What to make? | Tencel is frequently used in activewear and loungewear, flowy clothing, baby clothing, bedding and towels, casual clothes (such as T-shirts) |
What kind of fabric is tencel?
Tencel is a brand name for lyocell a type of fiber that is part of the rayon fabric family. It is a biodegradable fabric made from the wood pulp of trees, usually eucalyptus, oak, or birch. Tencel lyocell is known for being environmentally friendly due to its closed-loop production process, which recycles almost all the water and solvents used. The brand name fabric is a more trusted sourcing of lyocell for sustainable fabric compared to the unbranded material.
Tencel fabrics have a lot of the same properties as other types of rayon, but they are typically softer and more durable. This means that Tencel lyocell also has a fairly flowy drape and can wrinkle fairly easily too. But it’s overall a really pleasant fabric to wear, and it’s not too difficult of a fiber to sew with. It might not be for beginners, but it’s a good fabric to branch out into once you get the hang of sewing plain cotton.
tencel fabric versus viscose rayon
Tencel and viscose are both fibers in the rayon family that are derived from cellulose, which is commonly obtained from wood pulp, but they are produced using very different processes that impact their sustainability.
Tencel lyocell is manufactured using an eco-friendly, closed-loop process. This method significantly reduces the environmental impact, making Tencel a much more sustainable option. Tencel fibers are also strong, soft, and biodegradable, which contributes to their sustainable profile
Viscose, on the other hand, is made using a process that involves a chemical solution that involves more toxic chemicals and generally does not reuse the solution. This process is more harmful to the environment because it often results in releasing significant amount of waste into surrounding waterways, affecting the health of surrounding communities.
What can you make with tencel fabric?
Tencel is most often used to make clothing. It’s best used for flowy garments, like blouses and airy dresses, or garments that can use a soft touch, like undergarments and loungewear. Tencel is also often used for things like yoga pants and workout attire. Non-clothing uses for Tencel include bedding and towels, or accessories like scarves.
Properties of tencel fabric
- Texture: Tencel lyocell is known for its remarkably soft touch, making it extremely comfortable to wear (my sensitive skin loves it!).
- Elasticity: Tencel is often used to make knit fabrics, like jersey. In these cases, the material tends to have a high amount of stretch. Woven Tencel fabrics do not have an inherent stretch, but they do still tend to have a good level of flexibility, meaning there is a small amount of give to the material that helps it maintain a more comfortable fit.
- Weight: Tencel fabric can vary in weight depending on the weave and the intended use of the fabric. However, most Tencel fabric tends to be on the lightweight to medium weight end of the spectrum. Typically heavier weight Tencel fabrics will include a smaller percentage of the Tencel lyocell fibers, blending it with cotton or other fibers that can give it more structure.
- Drape: Tencel is known for having an extremely fluid drape. This is why the fiber tends to be used in higher percentages in lighter weight and flowy fabrics, as it typically does not have a good structure for maintaining heavy weight material.
- Opacity: Tencel fabric is typically opaque. However, the opacity of Tencel can vary depending on how it’s woven or knit. For example, if Tencel is woven into a lighter, finer fabric, it might have a slight sheerness.
- Shine: Tencel fabric tends to have a slight sheen to it. Unless the tencel is specifically being used to create a glossy, satin fabric, the shine is pretty subtle and only noticeable when the light hits it right.
- Fraying: When working with a woven Tencel fabric, expect a lot of fraying. Like most types of rayon, this is one of the frustrating downsides of the material. When sewing, make sure to handle the individual pieces as little as possible, and be sure to finish all of your seams securely so they don’t start fraying when you wash your garments.
- Durability: Tencel fabric tends to have some resistance to snagging and pilling, due to its smooth fiber characteristics and the strength of Tencel fibers. However, no fabric is entirely immune to snagging and pilling.
- Wrinkling: Tencel is known for its relatively good wrinkle resistance. It is not entirely wrinkle-proof, but it tends to resist creasing better than other types of rayon (which wrinkle as bad as linen).
How to care for tencel fabric
Generally, it’s okay to machine wash Tencel fabric. You may want to use gentle machine settings, but I’ve always washed my Tencel lyocell garments on standard settings with the rest of my laundry and it’s never been a problem. Tencel is stronger than other types of rayon, so it doesn’t really need the same delicate treatment.
You can also tumble dry or air dry your Tencel, whichever you prefer. You may want to avoid high heat settings, since that can lead to shrinkage.
When ironing, keep the heat to moderate levels. I usually keep it around the silk setting on my iron, which is on the low to medium heat settings.
Environmental impact of tencel
When you choose Tencel as your fabric, you’re opting for more than just comfort and style; you’re also making an environmentally conscious decision.
The production of Tencel utilizes a closed-loop system where over 99% of the water and solvents used are recycled and reused. This process drastically reduces waste and places much less strain on the environment compared to traditional rayon manufacturing. The chemicals used in the process are also a lot less toxic than with the traditional viscose rayon.
The core ingredient of Tencel is wood pulp, which comes from sustainably harvested trees. The sourcing of this raw material is critical, as it ensures that the fabric production doesn’t contribute to deforestation or habitat destruction. Certifications like FSC (Forest Stewardship Council) or PEFC (Programme for the Endorsement of Forest Certification) are associated with the wood pulp used for the brand Tencel, providing you with the assurance that the forests are managed responsibly.
Tencel branded lyocell vs unbranded
When selecting lyocell fabrics, you may encounter Tencel, which is a brand name, and generic, unbranded lyocell options. While unbranded lyocell is still typically a better option than viscose rayon, it doesn’t necessarily meet the same stringent criteria as the Tencel brand.
Tencel is a widely recognized band that is trusted for their sustainable processes. This involves both sourcing their wood pulp in responsible ways and ensuring that the lyocell process retains the integrity of the closed loop system to avoid polluting waterways. So, even though Tencel lyocell tends to be more expensive, it is also a more reliable source for sustainable fabric.
