Knit Vs. Woven Fabric (for beginners)

The two main categories of fabric that we work with for garment sewing are knit and woven fabrics (technically there are other types of material, such as felt, fur, and leather, but these are by far the two most commonly used). 

Knit fabrics are created from looping and interlocking the yarns used to create the material. It’s similar to the way someone would knit a sweater at home, but on a much tinier scale through a mechanical process. Woven materials are made using horizontal and vertical fibers that go over and under each other to weave the material together.

When I first started out, the easiest way for me to think about the difference between the two types of fabric was to think of knit fabrics as stretchy fabrics and woven fabrics as non-stretch. This is an oversimplification, but I still think it’s a useful way for beginners to differentiate the two categories of fabric.

(Note: if you want the more complicated answer, woven fabrics that are made with some percentage of elastic fibers (spandex or elastane) will have some stretch. Likewise, there are some stable knit fabrics that also have little to no stretch, such as fleece)

While both knit and woven fabrics can be used in a wide variety of garments, their differing characteristics mean that the two types of fabrics need to be treated differently when sewing and caring for final garments. Understanding the differences between the two (and how to work with them) will help you pick the right fabric for your next project.

What is the difference between knit and woven fabrics?

Knits and wovens are to overarching categories of fabric. Both are created using yarns, but the construction methods are entirely different and result in fabrics that have different characteristics and uses.

Knit fabrics are made using a single yarn, looped continuously. This creates a stretchy material that’s ideal for comfortable clothing (such as T-shirts and athleisure), garments that need to fit close to your body (such as yoga pants and body suits), or clothes that need to move with you (such as athletic wear).

General characteristics of knit fabrics:

• Knit fabric stretches (some types are highly stretchy, while others barely stretch at all)
• Knit fabric does not fray
• Knit fabric tends to be more wrinkle-resistant than woven fabric
• Knit fabric tends to pill for easily than woven fabric
• Most knit fabric has a fairly heavy and somewhat fluid drape

On the other hand, woven fabrics are made by weaving two sets of yarns at right angles to each other along the length and width of the fabric. The result is a more structured and stable fabric best for items that don’t require stretch, like denim jeans or a button-up shirt. Close fitting woven garments will typically require elastic, buttons, or zippers to be able to wear since the fabric doesn’t stretch.

General characteristics of woven fabrics:

• Woven fabric does not stretch (unless elastic fibers are used in the construction)
• Woven fabrics fray
• Woven fabrics snag and tear more easily than knit fabrics
• Woven fabrics have a wide range of drapes from highly structured to highly fluid

Why does it matter?

Knit and woven fabrics use different garment construction methods and tools when sewing. You need to know what type of material you are working with so that you can choose the right settings on your sewing machine and pick the best fabric for your current sewing project.

Sewing Tools and methods that differ between knits vs wovens:

• Knit fabrics need to use ballpoint jersey or stretch needles, while woven fabrics use universal needles.
• When sewing knits, you need to use a stretch or zigzag stitch on your machine to allow the seams to stretch after sewing while most wovens can use a straight stitch
• You’ll need to be careful when ironing and pressing knit fabrics to avoid stretching the fabric out
• Woven fabrics fray and always need the seams finished while knit fabrics do not fray so seam finishes are more optional
• Knits can be really challenging to sew because they tend to stretch out and warp when using a sewing machine if not handled properly
• Likewise, shiny and flowy woven fabrics tend to shift and slip a lot, which can make them difficult to sew as well
• Construction methods for collars, cuffs, hemming, and so on are entirely different for knits compared with woven fabrics. 
• Knits typically don’t require facings during construction, while this is a common part of woven garment construction

Can you use woven fabrics for knit sewing patterns?

You cannot use woven fabrics with a pattern that is made for knit material. 

Knit sewing patterns specify the use of knit fabric because they account for the material’s inherent stretch and drape. Such patterns are designed with elasticity in mind, so woven fabrics simply wouldn’t fit if you made them according to a knit garment construction. 

Woven fabrics have a rigid structure and will not provide the same fit or comfort when used in a pattern designed for knits. If you try to use a woven fabric for a knit pattern, the final garment will end up too tight, lack necessary flexibility, or simply will not work as envisioned. 

Can you use knit fabrics for woven sewing patterns?

Sometimes you can use knit fabric with a woven sewing pattern, but it’s not something I recommend for beginners because A) it doesn’t always work, and B) you usually have to make some adjustment to the pattern instructions to account for the knit material (such as adding interfacing to certain areas around buttons and zippers, and reinforcing certain seams to keep them from drooping and stretching out over time)

Knit fabrics have a natural elasticity that can cause them to stretch, especially when hung. This characteristic means that skirts or dress patterns designed for woven fabrics may not maintain their intended shape if a knit fabric is used. This can lead to finished garments that sag in areas that are meant to be fitted.

That being said, the more stable the knit fabric is (the less stretch it has) the more easily you’ll be able to substitute it into a woven pattern without any problems.  For example, think of something like using knit fleece for pajamas when a pattern originally calls for using flannel (a woven fabric).