Fabric 101: Tricot

Tricot is a highly stretchy knit fabric that is typically used for swimwear and athletic clothing. It is almost always made of entirely synthetic fibers (such as spandex and polyester), which helps the fabric to retain its elasticity even after heavy use.

Due to its unique warp-knit properties, tricot is also among the most comfortable of athletic fabrics. This means it’s also a fabric of choice for undergarments and lingerie items, as well as inner linings of other types of clothing.

Fabric	Tricot
Texture?	Generally very smooth
Stretch?	Highly stretchy fabric, sometimes only across the fabric with a limited lengthwise stretch
Heavy or light?	Medium to lightweight
Stiff or drape?	Tricot has a drape, but it’s not any airy, flowy drape
Nap?	No nap
Typical fiber content?	Usually, it is synthetic, made from nylon or polyester with some spandex mixed into it
Opaque or sheer?	Tricot is opaque
Shiny?	The smooth side of tricot has a slight sheen, but it’s not shiny
Fraying?	Does not fray
Pilling?	Tricot does not pill easily
Other identifying properties?	Tricot is smooth on one side with a slightly rougher texture on the other
Cool or warm weather?	Either cool or warm weather depending on the cut of the garment
What to make?	Bathing suits, leggings, undergarments, lingerie, sportswear, jackets, linings
What needle to use?	Use a stretch needle with tricot (size 70 or 80)

What kind of fabric is tricot?

Tricot is a warp knit fabric, making it unique from most other types of knits, such as jersey and interlock which are weft knitted. The warp knit gives the tricot fabric its soft and smooth texture, while also allowing the fabric to remain quite dense and durable.

The most common type of tricot you’ll find is the material used for bathing suits. The warp knit of the fabric in addition to the types of fiber used (nylon or spandex), allows the tricot to stretch comfortably around the body while also being quite flattering and not showing off every lump and bump.

What can you make with tricot fabric?

It is most common to find tricot used as a swimwear fabric. The way it can stretch and drape over the body without clinging makes it ideal for this purpose. It can also be used for other types of athletic wear and undergarments. You may even find a tricot used for jackets.

The general durability of tricot fabric also makes it ideal for linings in clothing. This is especially common with vintage tricot or types that do not have added spandex or nylon in the fiber content.

Properties of tricot knit fabric

• Texture: Tricot fabric is very smooth, especially if it’s made specifically for sportswear. The front face of the fabric will be smoother than the back.
• Stretch: Most modern tricot has very high elasticity, stretching to 100% of its original size across the width. It also tends to have some stretch over the length as well.
• Weight: Even though it’s a dense fabric, tricot feels more medium to lightweight. 
• Drape: Tricot has a somewhat heavy drape. It’s not slinky and flowy the way crepe or chiffon is, but it’s also not going to be stiff the way quilting cotton is.
• Fiber composition: Tricot is almost always made from entirely synthetic fibers. Sometimes it’s made from just polyester, but more often it is also blended with nylon and spandex to give the fabric greater strength, elasticity, and a more comfortable feeling.
• Opacity: Tricot is a dense, opaque fabric. Some light-colored tricot fabrics meant to be lining may be slightly see-through.
• Shine: Tricot does not have a true shine to it the way satin-weave fabrics do. However, it’s common for the smooth face of tricot fabrics to have a very slight sheen to it.
• Fraying: Tricot fabric is a knit fabric, so it does not fray the way woven fabrics do.
• Pilling: Modern-day tricot is somewhat resistant to pilling. Tricot is also resistant to runs and tears.
• Wrinkling: For the most part, tricot fabric is resistant to wrinkling.
• Breathability: The warp knit makes the fabric breathable allowing some airflow despite the synthetic fiber content. Spandex, which is often included in tricot in small amounts, is also a water-wicking fabric allowing sweat and water to evaporate more easily. 

what to know before sewing with tricot

While tricot isn’t the most difficult type of stretch fabric I’ve tried to sew, it can still be a pain sometimes. I do not recommend trying to sew tricot if you are a beginner or just starting with knit fabrics.

The biggest problem you’ll have to contend with is the way the fabric stretches out as you try to sew it with a sewing machine. The easiest way to counteract this is by using a serger (or overlock machine). This works by pulling the fabric through the feed teeth as evenly as possible, making it less likely the fabric will stretch out.

However, if you don’t have a serger, you can still learn to create nice seams on tricot fabric with a plain old sewing machine. Take a scrap piece of fabric and do some tests to find the settings that work best for your machine and the particular fabric you’re working with (because the settings on my machine will probably be different than the settings on yours). Try some of these tips:

• Use a stretch needle
• Switch to a different-sized needle (if you’re using 80 now, try switching to 70 or 90 to see if it makes a difference)
• Adjust your machine settings (thread tension, presser foot pressure, and stitch length)
• Try installing a walking foot on your sewing machine
• Use a knit presser foot
• Apply wash-away tape to the seam before sewing
• Place a piece of tissue paper on top of the seam as you sew

What stitches to use on a sewing machine for tricot?

If you want your garment to continue to stretch after you’ve sewn it, you need to sew with a stretch stitch. This means you’ll need to switch to a zigzag or lightning bolt stitch setting.

In general the wider the zigzag of the stitch, the more stretch the seam will have. However, it will also be more noticeable along the outer seam line. So you’ll need to play with the length and width of your zigzag stitch until you find a happy medium between stretchability and a nice-looking seam.

How to care for tricot fabric

Because tricot fabric is made from synthetic fibers, it’s generally pretty easy to care for. You can usually throw it into the washing with the rest of your laundry without the need for a delicate wash cycle. The fabric does not easily shrink or pill when going through the laundry.