Beginner-Friendly Fabrics

Some types of fabric are inherently more difficult to sew with. When you first start out sewing, you need to focus on learning how to construct the garment (or bag or whatever you’re making) and learning how to use a sewing machine. You don’t want to get frustrated and bogged down while you try to figure out how to use a difficult fabric at the same time.

For example, I love wearing knit fabrics, so of course I had to choose a highly stretchy fabric as one of my first projects. Big mistake. I didn’t know stretch fabrics needed a special needle so the thread kept snapping and tangling. I also ended up what I call “bacon seams” because they were so wavy from being stretched out.

There will be time for experimenting with fun fabrics later, after you’ve gotten the hang of the basics. But for the first few projects, you want to try to use fairly structured, medium-weight fabric since these are the easiest to work with.

1. Most cotton fabrics are good for beginners

As a general rule, cotton fabrics are great for beginners. Quilting cotton is great if your first project is a simple bag or apron, while cotton broadcloth or poplin are good garment-weight fabrics for simple tops and dresses. (if you’re shopping at Joann’s, look for something called Kona cotton)

Why is cotton fabric so great for beginners? 

• Cotton fibers create more structured materials. This structure provides stability when cutting and sewing. Its crispness keeps the fabric from moving around too much while you sew, making it manageable even if you’re new to sewing.
• Cotton can withstand fairly high heat on the iron. Cotton can burn if you keep the iron pressed in the same spot for too long, but it can take high heat and it won’t melt, like polyester. This is great because as you’re learning to sew you also need to learn how to iron and press seams.
• Cotton fabric typically doesn’t fray as easily as other fibers. Some fibers tend to fray more easily (especially rayon!), meaning the edges will unravel if you’re not careful. While cotton fabrics will fray, it’s not usually as much of a problem (note: this isn’t always true of lightweight cottons, like voile or gauze, which is why I recommend sticking to medium-weight cotton fabric to start with)
• Garments made from cotton are easy to care for, typically requiring no more than a standard wash-and-dry cycle. This low maintenance aspect can boost your confidence as you won’t be burdened with complex care instructions after you finish your first projects.

Starting with cotton or a cotton blend gives you a forgiving and practical introduction to fabric projects as you learn the technical parts of sewing and constructing garments and accessories. While you’ll definitely want to branch out and try new fabrics after you’ve got a few project uner your belt, cotton is the way to go for beginners.

2. Stable fabrics are easiest to work with

Stable or structured fabrics are the ones that will hold their shape on their own.  Structured fabrics won’t cling or slip away from you as you work, so you won’t have to fight with the fabric. These materials will retain their shape and are less prone to warping, creating a more straightforward sewing experience.

Structured fabrics are not going to be great for creating airy blouses or flowing dresses (so save those projects for a little later on), but they are much easier to handle when you first start learning how to sew. When you are picking your first sewing pattern and buying your fabric, look for materials that don’t fall and flow easily, but instead have a more pronounced shape

It’s best if you can find a fabric store near you to try and see the fabrics drape for yourself, but many online retailers nowadays also include images and even videos of the drape to help you get an understanding of it before you buy.

Remember, as a novice, your focus should be on learning the techniques without battling the fabric. As you become more proficient, you can gradually move on to more challenging fabrics with confidence.

3. Avoid stretch fabric, shiny fabric, and flowy fabric

The three types of fabric that you really want to avoid when you start sewing are those that stretch, are shiny, or are super flowy. I don’t want you to start out with a fabric that’s too difficult only to get frustrated and quit before you have a chance to really learn how to sew. 

By waiting to use these fabrics until after you have a little experience, you can save yourself the headache and give yourself more time to learn and grow as a sewist.

• Stretch fabric is prone to stretching out while using a sewing machine if its’ not handled properly. This leads to ugly, wavy seams that look more like bacon strips than straight lines. Learning to manage stretch fabrics is like learning an entirely new sewing skill.
• Shiny fabrics have their own set of challenges. Their slippery surface can make them hard to keep in place, both when cutting and sewing. This type of material also often shows pinholes and other marks very easily, which means the material requires extra care to prevent lasting damage.
• Flowy Fabric has a beautiful drape and makes lovely flowing dresses, but it can be quite the adversary for a beginner. It can move unpredictably, leading to inaccuracies when cutting or sewing. Pressing flowy fabric also requires patience and technique to avoid warping the material.

4. Types of fabric I recommend for beginner sewists

For your first few projects, you want to choose super easy fabrics that get you used to using a sewing machine, an iron and basic fabric handling. 

These are my recommendations for your first projects:

• Quilting cotton
• Poplin
• Broadcloth
• Most types of cotton shirting
• Medium-weight cotton/polyester blends
• Muslin 
• Flannel
• Chambray

After you’ve done a few projects, challenge yourself with slightly more difficult types of fabric. Learning to manipulate fabric is a skill that you will learn with time. These are great fabrics that let you dip your toes into the world of fabric without feeling too overwhelmed.

My recommendations for advanced beginners:

• Medium weight linen: This typically has a more flowy drape than standard cotton, making it slightly more challenging, but is still stable enough to handle relatively easily. 
• Structured lightweight fabrics like voile, lawn, and medium-weight rayon: These fabrics fray more easily and have a more flowy drape than standard cotton, but are still structured enough for beginners.
• Medium/heavyweight fabrics like twill and canvas: These fabrics are structured like standard cotton, but the thickness of the material can pose a bit of a challenge, try using a heavier needle (90 or 100)
• Stable knit fabrics and knits with a minimal amount of stretch: Fabrics that stretch a lot are difficult to sew with a sewing machine. When you start with knits, it’s best to pick one that has a minimal amount of stretch, and experiment from there. Try something like fleece, ponte, or a low-stretch jersey fabric.

After you’ve tried some of these, don’t be afraid to explore more difficult fabrics too! Slippery fabrics, flowy fabrics, and high-stretch fabrics are definitely a challenge (so be ready to make some mistakes). But the more you experiment, the more comfortable you’ll get with all types of fabric, and the more you’ll be able to make amazing new garments.