Fabric 101: Bamboo
Bamboo is a type of rayon fiber. The bamboo fibers are created from the pulp of the bamboo grass, which then undergoes a chemical process similar to other rayon materials which turns it into a usable fiber. Bamboo rayon is known for its extremely soft texture and flowy drape, making it excellent for comfortable clothing such as loungewear and baby clothes.
Bamboo is often touted as being an eco-friendly material and is marketed as such. The truth is a little more complicated than that. While bamboo is a highly sustainable crop (fast growing, and requiring little water and pesticide use) and creates biodegradable material, the manufacturing process for bamboo rayon will often use high amounts of toxic chemicals that are harmful to the environment, the surrounding community, and the factory workers.
In recent years, more eco-friendly, closed-loop processes are being created for rayon production (modal and lyocell for example), but they are still not the most common processes used. The sustainability of bamboo fabric depends on the methods used in its production, and there is ongoing research and development aimed at creating more eco-friendly ways to process bamboo fibers.
| Fabric | Bamboo |
| Texture? | Extremely soft |
| Stretch? | Depends on they fabric, if it’s knit there is usually significant stretch |
| Weight? | Depends on the fabric |
| Stiff or flowy drape? | Usually is made for fabrics with a flowy drape |
| Nap? | It can be used for napped fabrics |
| Typical fiber content? | Bamboo is a type of rayon |
| Opaque or sheer? | It varies depending on the fabric |
| Shiny? | It varies depending on the fabric |
| Fraying? | If bamboo is used for woven fabrics, they tend to fray easily |
| Pilling? | Often prone to pilling |
| What to make? | Bamboo fabric can be used for a wide range of clothing but is most common in activewear. Bamboo is also frequently used for bedding, baby products, and accessories (such as scarves) |
| What needle to use? | It depends on the type of fabric, for knit bamboo materials use a jersey needle, for woven bamboo materials a universal needle usually works. |
What kind of fabric is bamboo?
While it is possible to create bamboo via a mechanical process to create a rough fabric similar to linen or hemp, the majority of bamboo fabrics are made via chemical processes that turn bamboo pulp into soft fibers, the same way that other rayon fabrics are produced.
In recent years, bamboo fabric has gained popularity for its soft texture and environmentally friendly potential. Most often bamboo rayon fibers are used to create knit textiles, such as jersey or sweater knit fabrics, but the fiber can be used to create a wide variety of materials. It is also often used in fabric blends, most frequently being combined with cotton.
Is bamboo an environmentally friendly and ethical material?
Bamboo fabric has garnered attention for its sustainability and ethical production practices, and there is good reason for that. Being a fast-growing resource, bamboo does not require fertilizers and can thrive on rainwater alone, marking the crop overall a sustainable option.
However, the transformation of the bamboo plant into fabric involves chemical processes that raise environmental concerns when they are not managed responsibly.
Arguments for Bamboo Being Eco-Friendly:
- Sustainable Crop: Bamboo is a highly sustainable plant; it grows quickly, requires little water, doesn’t need fertilizers or pesticides, and is a renewable resource that can be harvested without killing the plant.
- Biodegradability: As a natural fiber, bamboo is biodegradable if natural dyes and finishes are used.
- Carbon Sequestration: Bamboo forests have good carbon dioxide absorption capabilities, which can help in the fight against climate change.
Arguments Against Bamboo Being Eco-Friendly:
- Chemical Processing: The most common method of turning bamboo into fabric is through a chemical process that transforms the cellulose into rayon or viscose. This process involves toxic chemicals like sodium hydroxide and carbon disulfide, which can be harmful to the environment and factory workers.
- Resource-Intensive Manufacturing: The chemical processes require a significant amount of energy and water, which can negate some of the environmental benefits of bamboo as a crop.
- Deforestation: There are concerns that the popularity of bamboo could lead to deforestation as farmers clear existing forests to plant bamboo for textile production.
- False Eco Claims: Sometimes, products are labeled as eco-friendly simply because they contain bamboo, but the processing and other materials used may not be sustainable, leading to greenwashing.
While bamboo as a raw material has several eco-friendly attributes, the environmental impact of the processes used to convert it into fabric is a significant concern. The sustainability of bamboo fabric depends on the methods used in its production, and there is ongoing research and development aimed at creating more eco-friendly ways to process bamboo fibers.
What can you make with bamboo fabric?
Since bamboo is a type of fiber and not a specific type of fabric, it can be used for a wide range of purposes. Clothing is the most common at the moment, since bamboo is an extremely soft and comfortable fabric. It’s often used for t-shirts, blouses, flowy dresses, and undergarments. However, it’s also used for towels, bedding and a wide range of accessories, from totes to scarves.
Properties of bamboo fabric
- Texture: Bamboo fabric is smooth and somewhat cool to the touch. It is also one of the softest fabrics I’ve ever worked with.
- Stretch: Knit bamboo fabrics are known for their stretchiness. The amount of stretch can vary depending on the specific blend and knit of the fabric. Even woven bamboo fabrics, while not stretchy, tend to have a higher level of flexibility compared to other types of fibers.
- Weight: The weight of bamboo fabric can vary widely depending on the weave and the intended use of the fabric. For example, some bamboo jersey fabrics weigh around 175 grams per square meter (GSM), which is considered a light to medium weight. Other types of bamboo fabrics can be heavier, suitable for sweaters or heavier items of clothing.
- Drape: Bamboo fabric is known for having a flowy drape rather than being stiff or structured. However, the specific drape of bamboo fabric can also depend on the type of weave and the weight of the fabric, with lighter weaves providing a more flowy drape. Typically the bamboo version of any particular weave will be flowier than the same fabric weave made from a different fiber. For example, a bamboo jersey fabric will be flowier than a cotton jersey.
- Shine: Bamboo fabric can have a subtle sheen, particularly when it is made into bamboo sateen or silky bamboo types of fabric. However, not all bamboo fabrics are shiny; the finish can range from matte to glossy depending on the manufacturing process and the type of weave.
- Snagging and pilling: Bamboo fabric is generally less prone to pilling compared to many other types of fabrics, especially if it is a high-quality knit and proper care is taken during washing and use. However, like any fabric, it can snag or pill under certain conditions, such as when it is subjected to rough treatment or if it rubs against harsh surfaces.
- Breathability: Bamboo is also quite breathable, especially compared to other types of rayon fabric.
- Moisture absorption: Bamboo’s fibers have a high moisture absorption capacity. This makes it a good option for athleisure clothing.
Is bamboo better for hot or cold weather garments?
Bamboo fabric is versatile and can be suitable for both hot and cold weather garments. It helps keep you cool when the weather is hot because of its breathable and moisture-wicking nature, which allows sweat to evaporate quickly.
In colder weather, bamboo’s fibers provide insulation if used in thicker fabrics like fleece, keeping you warm by trapping warm air close to the body. Therefore, bamboo is often considered an all-season fiber that can be adapted to various climate conditions.
How to care for bamboo fabric
Bamboo fabric is surprisingly durable, especially compared to other viscose rayon fabrics that are fairly delicate. It generally retains it’s shape, stays colorfast longer, and is less likely to pill or snag. To maintain the quality of your bamboo fabric items, follow these straightforward care instructions:
- Washing: Bamboo fabrics should be washed in cold water. It’s best to wash on a gentle or delicate cycle to preserve the fabric’s integrity.
- Drying: Air drying bamboo fabrics by laying them flat or hanging them is recommended to prevent shrinkage and maintain the shape of the garment. If you must use a dryer, choose a low heat setting. Avoid high heat as it can damage the fibers.
- Ironing: If needed, you can iron bamboo fabric at a low temperature. Avoid high heat to prevent scorching the fabric.
- Treating Stains: For stains, it’s best to treat them promptly with a gentle stain remover before washing to maintain the colorfast qualities
