Fabric 101: Homespun Fabric

Although it’s not the most common fabric, you may at some point come across a material called homespun. The name immediately makes you think of historical domestic settings where women would sit at home weaving their own fabric. While this association is purposeful, it is not the reality of modern homespun fabric.

Homespun fabric is manufactured to have a somewhat rustic and irregular look that makes the fabric mimic the appearance of a handmade textile.

Homespun fabric is made with a simple weave and pre-dyed yarns, making it a reversible fabric. It’s most frequently used in quilting, but homespun fabric can also be used in home decor and garment making as well, especially as a type of shirting. It is typically a very soft fabric that gets even softer as you wash and wear the garments. 

What is homespun fabric?

Despite the name, most homespun fabric that you can purchase in fabric stores is not actually spun by hand. Instead, it is made to mimic the traditional colonial appearance and technique using factories and machines to manufacture the material. 

Homespun fabric is made using irregular yarns, giving the finished material a non-uniform appearance that is what you would get if you were, in fact, weaving the fabric by hand. It also uses yarns that are pre-dyed, not printed or dyed after the fact like many modern fabrics.

Homespun vs quilting cotton

Homespun is commonly described as a slightly softer version of quilting cotton. The two fabrics are quite similar. Modern homespun fabric has a looser weave than quilting cotton, which leads to it having a softer drape. Quilting cotton has a more uniform and tightly woven structure, allowing for precise stitching and detailed quilting.

While homespun can definitely be used for quilting projects, the looser, more flexible weave means it’s also appropriate for some types of garments. For example, homespun fabric is an excellent material to use as a shirting for button-up shirts, while quilting cotton is typically too stiff for this purpose.

Characteristics of homespun fabric

• Texture: Homespun fabric is slightly coarse or textured compared to other fabrics. However, homespun fabric also gets softer and more comfortable with every wash cycle.
• Durability: Homespun fabric is generally fairly durable. It is usually made from sturdy and robust cotton fibers with a weave that is resistant to tearing.
• Colors: The color of homespun fabric can sometimes be uneven. This unevenness is intentional and contributes to the overall rustic and handmade aesthetic. Many homespun fabrics are also intended to allow the colors to fade over time too.
• Patterns: Homespun fabric features classic designs such as plaids, checks, stripes, solid colors, or simple geometrical motifs. The front and back of the fabric will have identical patterns because of the way it is plainly woven. 
• Fiber composition: Cotton is the most common and popular fiber used for homespun fabric. While other fibers, like linen, can be used as well, cotton remains the primary and widely used choice.
• Drape: Generally, homespun tends to be a medium-weight fabric, which can result in a more structured and slightly stiffer drape compared to lighter fabrics. As homespun gets softer it also tends to have a more relaxed drape.
• Fraying: Homespun fabric tends to fray easily. The fraying isn’t so bad that it will disintegrate as you’re sewing, but it is definitely noticeable. This is primarily due to its coarse and loosely woven nature. The looser weave allows individual yarns or threads to become dislodged, leading to fraying along the edges of the fabric.

Homespun fabric gets softer as it’s worn and washed

Homespun fabric has a unique quality where it tends to get softer and more comfortable with wear and washing. With each wear and wash, the fabric undergoes a process of relaxation and slight loosening of the fibers. This results in an increased level of softness and a lovely, cozy texture.

In addition to becoming softer, homespun fabric can also develop a delightful, lived-in appearance with slight distressing or a more vintage appeal (including areas with faded dye), adding to its charm and character over time.

What is homespun fabric used for?

Homespun fabric is used for a wide range of purposes. Some common uses of homespun fabric include:

• Quilting: Homespun fabric is mostly closely associated with quilting. The texture and visual interest of homespun fabric make it a popular choice for quilting projects, and the weight and drape of the fabric are not too far off from standard quilting cotton.
• Clothing: Homespun fabric is also used to create comfortable and durable garments. It’s most frequently used as a type of shirting, but homespun can also be used to fashion dresses, blouses, pants, and more.
• Home Decor: Homespun fabric is also excellent for creating various home decor items, such as curtains, tablecloths, pillow covers, cushion covers, and wall hangings.
• Accessories: From bags and purses to scarves, headbands, and even jewelry, homespun fabric can be transformed into fashionable accessories that add a touch of vintage style.

How to sew with homespun fabric

Homespun fabric is relatively easy to work with, particularly for those with some sewing experience. It has a stable and predictable structure, which aids in creating accurate and consistent seams. However, it is important to take a few extra precautions while sewing with homespun fabric. Consider the following tips to make the process smoother:

• Pre-wash the material. Use whatever your standard wash settings are and pre-wash your fabric before sewing it. Homespun fabric is known for its tendency to shrink a lot (you may even want to pre-wash it twice). This step will help prevent unwanted surprises after completing the project.
• Make sure to leave enough seam allowance to mitigate the fraying. You’ll want to make sure you work with at least ½ inch seam allowance so the edge doesn’t unravel and fray away.
• Use a sturdy seam finish: My preferred seam finish with homespun fabric is a flat-felled seam, but an overcast or serged seam finish will also help prevent fraying.
• Make sure you stay stitch. Since homespun fabric is somewhat flexible, it can warp out of shape if you’re not careful. Be sure to stay stitch necklines and other areas according to your pattern instructions.