Fabric 101: Wool
Wool is a type of fiber that is derived from the coats of animals like sheep, goats, and even certain species of rabbits and camels. Wool is favored for its durability, insulation properties, and its ability to wick moisture away from the body.
The texture and overall quality of the wool fabric depends on factors like the breed of the animal it comes from and how the wool is processed. For instance, finer wools like Merino are celebrated for their softness and are less likely to cause any itchiness.
Wool’s versatility extends beyond clothing. It’s also found in carpets, upholstery, and even batting for quilts and insulation. This fabric’s natural crimp makes it a durable material that is resistant to rips, snags, and stretching out over time too.
| Fabric | Wool |
| Texture? | Slightly fuzzy and usually slightly rough (some types of wool are softer than others) |
| Stretch? | Depends on the type of fabric |
| Weight? | Often used for medium to heavy weight fabric, but it can be used for any type of material |
| Stiff or flowy drape? | Typically somewhat stiff, but depends on the type of fabric |
| Opaque or sheer? | Depends on the fabric, but more often used for opaque material |
| Shiny? | Not naturally shiny |
| Fraying? | Expect a standard amount of fraying in woven knit materials |
| Pilling? | Tends to pill very easily |
| Other identifying properties? | Naturally crimped fibers cause a unique woolen texture. Wool is also to more moisture absorbing and flame resistant than other fibers |
| Cool or warm weather? | Depends on the fabric, but frequently wool is used for cold-weather clothing |
| What to make? | You can make just about anything with wool |
| What needle to use? | A standard universal needle (usually size 80 or 90) |
What kind of fabric is wool?
Wool is a type of fiber derived from the fleece of sheep and other animals, such as goats (cashmere and mohair), rabbits (angora), and camels. It is renowned for its insulation properties, retaining warmth even when wet, which makes it a favored choice for cold-weather garments. Wool fabrics vary in texture and use from fine, soft wools that are used in high-quality apparel to heavy, coarse wools that are used for textiles like rugs.
Wool fibers are naturally elastic and can bend without breaking, making the fiber more wrinkle resistant and tear-resistant than most other natural fibers. This type of material is also extremely absorptive, absorbing moisture up to one-third of its weight without feeling damp. Wool is also naturally fire-retardant to an extent, since it does not melt or stick to the skin when exposed to fire.
The composition of wool fabrics can be purely wool or a blend, which may include materials such as polyester or silk to alter the texture and strength of the material. A wool blend can offer a compromise between the warmth of wool and characteristics of other fibers, such as the soft texture of cotton.
What can you make with wool fabric?
Wool fabric is incredibly versatile and is used to make a wide range of items. Most commonly, wool is a good choice for sweaters and cardigans, since it’s a good insulator during colder months. However, lightweight wool is actually quite breathable, so wool can be used for more than just winter clothes. Anything from T-shirts, to dresses, and suits can be made using wool.
In addition to clothing, wool fabric can be crafted into blankets and throws. It can also be used for winter accessories like hats and scarves, or for home decor, like rugs and cushion covers.
Properties of wool fabric
- Texture: Wool’s texture can vary from smooth to extremely coarse, depending on the type of wool and finishing processes applied. Average wool fabric is somewhat rough and a little itchy to my sensitive skin. Manufacturers often blend wool with other fibers to enhance its softness and reduce any potential for discomfort. Wool also has a characteristic fuzzy texture. This is due to the fiber ends and scales present on the surface of the wool. Over time, the texture can become more pronounced as fibers break and the surface becomes less smooth.
- Elasticity: Wool fibers offer a natural elasticity due to their crimped structure, allowing even woven fabrics to have a small amount of stretch or give to the material.Knitted wool, of course, has more give and can stretch further, especially in garments such as sweaters or socks.
- Weight: Wool fiber can be made into almost any weight of fabric. However, it’s not typically used for extremely lightweight material. Even ‘lightweight’ wool material will typically be borderline medium-weight fabric.
- Drape: Fine wool tends to be more flexible, which allows for a smoother drape. In contrast, wool fabrics that are denser or made with coarser fibers typically exhibit more rigidity, leading to a stiffer appearance.
- Shine: Wool is not really used to make shiny fabrics. Its fibers naturally possess a matte finish. However, certain treatments and fabric weaves can influence wool’s reflectiveness, such as a wax coating. Wool can also show ‘glowing zones’ over time if the fibers get damaged, typically due to excessive abrasion and wear.
- Pilling: Wool fabrics can be susceptible to pilling, a process where fibers become entangled to form small balls on the surface. This is more common in softer, loosely spun fabrics.
- Durability: Wool is a fairly durable fiber, and is typically resistant to tearing and wrinkling. However, the fibers become weaker when the fabric is wet. Lower quality wool is also more likely to catch and snag.
- Static: Wool tends to be clingy and hold static, especially in dry environments. This is due to the natural qualities of the wool fibers which can generate static electricity. If you have any pets, be prepared to be contantly cleaning pet hair off of your wool fabrics.
- Shrinkage: Be mindful that wool shrinks easily when washed, especially in hot water. This is a result of the scales on wool fibers interlocking when exposed to heat and agitation.
Is wool better for hot or cold weather garments?
Wool’s structure creates insulating air pockets, making it a choice material for cold weather. These pockets trap warm air, regulating your body temperature and keeping you warm.
Interestingly, the breathability of wool also plays a role in comfort during warmer conditions. Wool fibers can absorb moisture, which in hot weather, can generate a cooling effect as sweat evaporates. It’s a misconception that wool is only for winter; its moisture-wicking property makes it suitable for moderate temperatures as well.
How to care for wool fabric
Wool requires special attention to maintain its quality. Your wool garments will last longer and stay in great shape if you follow these care guidelines:
- Water temperature: Cold or lukewarm water is best to avoid shrinkage and maintain the fabric’s durability. When sewing with wool, it’s a good idea to pre-wash your fabric to account for any shrinkage.
- Avoid the dryer: Lay your wool garments flat on a towel away from direct heat and sunlight to dry, this will prevent potential felting of the fabric.
- Ironing: Use a medium iron setting and a pressing cloth to prevent scorching. Wool also does well with steam.
- Keep clean before storing: Ensure items are clean to avoid attracting moths.
- Use breathable storage: A cotton bag will allow the wool to breathe and prevent moisture buildup, since wool is more susceptible to mold than other types of fiber.
- Avoid excessive rubbing: This can cause pilling and wear on the fabric.
