Fabric 101: Chambray
Chambray is a type of durable, cotton fabric that has a high thread count but still maintains somewhat lightweight properties. It is characterized by fine (thin) yarns where the ones going across the fabric are dyed and the yarns along the length are white. This gives the ending fabric a lighter, almost heathered look.
Chambray is most often used in as a more lightweight alternative to denim clothing since it looks similar and is also quite durable. However, chambray can be found in a wider variety of colors, and tends to be used more for shirting than for pants and outerwear. This breathable, cotton material even makes it a good choice for many summer garments.
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| Fabric | Chambray |
| Texture? | Somewhat rough at first but gets softer with wear |
| Stretch? | No stretch unless it made with spandex (elastane) |
| Heavy or light? | Medium-weight, frequently on the lighter side of medium |
| Stiff or flowy drape? | Somewhat stiff, but not as much as bottom-weight fabrics |
| Nap? | No nap |
| Typical fiber content? | Usually cotton (linen is also used occasionally) |
| Opaque or sheer? | Opaque |
| Shiny? | Typically matte, some types of linen chambray may have a slight sheen |
| Fraying? | A standard amount of fraying |
| Pilling? | Somewhat pill-resistant |
| Colors and patterns? | Usually a light blue, denim-like color, but it can be any color |
| Other identifying properties? | Chambray has dyed yarn (traditionally a light blue) along the length of the fabric, and white yarns across the width |
| Cool or warm weather? | Could be used for cool or warm weather, but usually best for fall and early spring |
| What to make? | Spring and summer dresses, shirts, pants, jackets, some lightweight “denim” clothing, also bed sheets and home decor |
| What needle to use? | Usually universal needle, size 80 or 90 |
What kind of fabric is chambray?
Chambray is a light to medium weight fabric typically made from 100% cotton or a blend of cotton and linen. It is known for its plain weave with a denim-like appearance. Chambray is renowned for its excellent breathability, durability, and soft texture.
Chambray uses a plain weave, but the horizontal weft yarns are white, while the vertical warp yarns are dyed (usually blue, but it can be any color). The warp and weft yarns interlace in a simple, regular pattern, creating a balanced and uniform structure. This plain weave gives chambray its signature look of alternating colored and white threads, similar to denim.
Chambray fabric versus denim
Like chambray, the denim weave combines white yarns with dyed yarns to create that dappled appearance that is the signature look of denim fabric. For this reason, people frequently mistake chambray for a type of lightweight denim. However, the two fabrics are actually different.
- Chambray has a plain weave, whereas denim typically has a twill weave, characterized by diagonal lines.
- Chambray is fairly lightweight and breathable, while denim is heavier and more durable.
- Chambray is popular for shirts, dresses, and lighter garments. Denim is commonly used for jeans, jackets, and heavy-duty apparel.
- Chambray fabrics come in various colors, while denim is typically associated with its classic indigo-blue shade
What can you make with chambray fabric?
Chambray is most popular as a type of shirting (material used to make garments like button-up shirts), but it’s also used for skirts and dresses, as well as lightweight shorts and pants. They may even be used to mimic denim as a pair of summer ‘jeans.’ Chambray can also be used for lightweight jackets, blazers, and even accessories like scarves and hats.
Properties of chambray fabric
- Texture: Chambray fabric has a soft, smooth and comfortable texture. It is smoother than denim fabric.
- Weight: Chambray fabric is known for being relatively lightweight to medium weight. The exact weight can vary depending on the specific composition and weave of the fabric, but in general, chambray is much lighter compared to heavier fabrics like denim.
- Drape: Chambray fabric has a moderate drape that can’t be described as flowy, but it’s not stiff the way heavier bottom weight fabric is either.
- Fiber composition: Chambray is typically made from 100% cotton, linen, or a blend of the two. Recently, I found chambray that was made from a hemp blend too. This is fairly new, but hemptex is similar to linen in the way it feels and behaves.
- Opacity: Generally, chambray is woven tightly enough to provide decent opacity, especially in darker or more saturated colors. However, lighter shades or certain chambray variants may have a degree of translucency or a slightly sheer quality.
- Shine: Chambray has a dull, matte appearance and is not considered a shiny fabric.
- Fraying: Chambray is not prone to significant fraying. Or at least, it’s not the type of material that will disintegrate in your hands as you sew it. Like any woven fabric, chambray can experience minor fraying along its edges if they’re not properly finished.
- Durability: Chambray fabric is a fairly durable fabric. It’s not particularly prone to pilling or snagging and can put up with a good amount of daily wear and tear.
what to know before sewing with chambray
Chambray fabric is pretty easy to sew with. It’s not too thick to sew through, and the material is structured enough to not slip while you try to sew it. You can also easily use a universal needle (usually size 80 works fine), and the fabric recovers well from pin holes.
The only major consideration is the fabric’s tendency to shrink. Since it’s typically made from cotton and linen, these natural fibers can shrink during washing. Make sure you pre-wash your fabric before you start sewing with it. When prewashing, it’s best to use whatever settings you intend to use when washing your final garment.
How to care for chambray fabric
In most cases, chambray can be machine-washed in cool water using a standard machine cycle. It’s also typically fine to dry chambray fabric in a typical dryer, but you may want to use low heat settings to avoid further shrinkage. If you’re worried that your chambray garment will shrink (maybe you forgot to pre-wash the fabric) you can always air dry it by hanging the clothing or laying it flat on a towel.
