Fabric 101: Jacquard

Jacquard is a type of fabric that is created with a design woven directly into the fabric as part of the manufacturing process. The design is not printed or embroidered onto it after the fabric is made like other types of fabric. This means it will not be washed off or face over time, and the “negative” design is visible on the reverse side of the fabric.

Because it’s not a specific fabric weave or fiber, jacquard can vary significantly in style, weight, drape, and other characteristics of the material. You can even find knit jacquard fabric, though this is less common. 

Modern-day jacquard is most commonly used for home decor and upholstery. So you’ll usually find it in rather stiff heavyweight materials. However, it’s also possible to find thinner types of jacquard that are better suited for apparel.

Fabric	Jacquard
Texture?	Varied textures according to the designs woven into the fabric and fibers used
Stretch?	Most jacquard will not stretch (knit jacquard is the exception)
Heavy or light?	Modern jacquard is usually heavy, upholstery weight, but it can be any weight
Stiff or flowy drape?	Modern jacquard is usually very stiff, but it can be flowy too
Nap?	Usually no nap
Typical fiber content?	Jacquard can be made from any type of fiber or mix of fibers
Opaque or sheer?	Typically opaque
Shiny?	Jacquard can be shiny, but not always
Fraying?	Most jacquard will fray very easily
Pilling?	Some types pill more easily than others (polyester is prone to pilling)
Other identifying properties?	Jacquard fabric has designs that are woven directly into the material on a jacquard loom. Jacquard also has a negative image on the back of the fabric.
Cool or warm weather?	Typically better for cool weather
What to make?	Jacquard is frequently used for upholstery items (drapes, duvets, pillows, bedding), and decorative elements in clothing such as vests, ties, and sashes.
What needle to use?	It depends on the fabric, but usually universal or heavy-duty needles

What kind of fabric is jacquard?

Jacquard is a term used to describe fabrics that have a complex design woven directly into the material using a Jacquard loom (meaning it’s not embroidered after the fact, but instead during the manufacturing process). Various types of fabrics use this technique when they are being made (including brocade and damask), but they are frequently just called jacquard as a general term.

Jacquard fabrics will always have a negative image on the back face of the fabric. Because of the way the designs are woven, the front face of jacquard materials will have the design, while the back will have an opposite version of the design. For some fabrics, this means that it’s a reversible fabric with the negative design being just as appealing as the front. But for some complex jacquard patterns, the back is not really usable as a face of the fabric.

Because jacquard only refers to the way the fabric is woven together, you’ll find materials of vastly different weights, drapes, and fiber types included in this family of fabrics. While many nowadays are polyester and thick, it’s also possible to find thinner types of jacquard that are suitable for apparel.

What can you make with jacquard fabric?

Jacquard fabrics are most commonly used in upholstery. Curtains and drapes frequently have patterns woven into them, even material used to cover sofas is often a type of jacquard. Decorative pillows also use jacquard woven material and many duvet covers too.

In terms of apparel, jacquard is typically only used as an accent. It can be used as a decorative element on vests and waistcoats, neckties, and cuffs and collars. Garment-weight jacquards can also be used to make all kinds of clothing, especially dress shirts, jackets, and pants. However, it’s much less common nowadays.

Jacquard designs are typically somewhat delicate and easily snag or pull, so it’s not typically used in everday style clothing.

Properties of jacquard fabric

• Texture: The surface of jacquard fabric will always have some sort of texture. Silky jacquard fabrics will usually have one side that is satin and smooth while the other is not. Brocade jacquards tend to be quite obviously bumpy around the design elements. In general, the more intricate the design the rougher the final texture.
• Weight: Most modern jacquard is heavyweight because it is meant for upholstery. However, silky jacquard and some vintage jacquard materials are more medium-weight.
• Drape: Most jacquard has a somewhat stiff in drape. It’s meant for curtains, decorative pillows, and even couch covers. Even most garments-weight jacquards are most appropriate for structured garments, like coats, or as accents on the cuffs and collars of clothing.
• Fiber composition: Jacquard can be made from any type of fiber. Most that I’ve seen are polyester, but it’s not uncommon to find rayon or cotton jacquard either.
• Opacity: All jacquard that I’ve come into contact with has been completely opaque. However, it is possible to have a loose weave as a base when weaving the jacquard designs that could cause the material to be sheer or semi sheer.
• Shine: Some jacquard is made with a satin weave, giving one side a silky, shiny surface. Some types of jacquard are completely matte with no sheen or shine. It depends entirely on the specific fabric, fiber, and weave the jacquard was made from.
• Fraying: Jacquard frays a lot. This is one type of fabric that I am very careful with when sewing because it has the unfortunate tendency to unravel along the edges (it almost feels like it is disintegrating in my hands). 
• Durability: The designs woven into jacquard fabrics are prone to snagging making the fabric not very durable overall. It can be all too easy to accidentally rub the material the wrong way and pull the yarns out of place.

How to sew with jacquard fabric

Jacquard is not impossibly difficult to sew. The most difficult aspect to deal with is the tendency for these materials to fray away into nothing. Otherwise, you just need to remember to switch up your sewing machine needle based on the weight of your jacquard fabric.

There are a couple of things you can do to deal with the fraying of jacquard fabrics. Try some of these tips and decide what works best for you and your sewing process:

• Finish all the sides of your fabric as soon as you cut the pieces and before you start sewing (using a serger or a zigzag stitch with an overcast foot)
• Cut your fabric with a pair of pinking shears instead of your regular shears (guaranteed to give you hand cramps too)
• Use fray check on all the edges of your fabric

You may need to adjust the needle in your machine as well. Most of the time you can use a universal needle and adjust the size according to the weight of your fabric. Heavier fabrics will use sizes 90 or 100 needles, while thinner fabrics will use sizes 60 or 70. For especially heavy jacquard, especially upholstery weight, you’ll want to switch to a heavy-duty needle instead.

How to care for jacquard fabric

You want to be careful when washing jacquard fabric because too much agitation will cause the intricately woven fibers to pull out of place. The lower the quality of the fabric is, the more likely this is to happen. 

This means that even with polyester jacquard, you need to be careful putting it through the washing machine and dryer. Consider hand washing your jacquard garments or spot-cleaning any dirty upholstery. If you must use the washing machine, be sure to use delicate settings and use a mesh garment bag to help protect the fabric. You can, of course, also send your jacquard clothing to the dry cleaners instead.