Fabric 101: Herringbone
Herringbone fabric is recognized for its characteristic arrangement of slanting, short rows that meet in the middle in a reverse pattern. It’s not just another pretty pattern; the arrangement of the weave can actually influence the fabric’s feel and drape, affecting how it hangs and moves with the body or in your home.
The herringbone weave doesn’t only come in one standard look. Fabrics can feature the herringbone pattern in different scales and colors, giving designers and consumers alike a wide range of options. Whether it’s in your wardrobe, upholsteries, or drapes, a herringbone fabric introduces a classic look that plays well with other textures and styles.
What is herringbone fabric?
Herringbone fabric is characterized by its V-shaped weaving pattern; it resembles the spine of a herring fish, which is where it gets its name. This weave is used for fabric that is medium to heavy weight and is often used for coating, bottom-weight garments, and home decor.
Constructed using a variation of the twill weave, herringbone is defined by its unique broken twill weave. The direction of the slant alternates column by column to create the zigzag appearance.
The interlocking nature of the pattern results in a robust and heavy-duty fabric. Despite the durable structure, herringbone fabric typically maintains a flexibility that contributes to its wearability and drape.
Knitted vs. woven herringbone fabric
Woven herringbone fabric is characterized by a distinctive V-shaped weaving pattern, that’s achieved using a variation of the diagonal twill weave. This type of fabric is non-stretch and is more structured, making it ideal for suits and outerwear. While not always the case, this type of herringbone fabric typically has a much smaller and subtler weave.
In comparison, knitted herringbone fabric still mimics the herringbone pattern, but it uses different knitted techniques. It tends to be a chunky knitted pattern used in sweaters, and exhibits more stretch and flexibility due to its method of construction involving interlooping yarns. This can often result in a softer, more comfortable material suited to casual or stretchy garments.
What is herringbone fabric typically used for
Herringbone is a popular choice for men’s and women’s suits due to its texture that gives the fabric a subtle, interesting look, and its resilience to wrinkling. It’s also great for coats, jackets, and other bottomweight garments. Herringbone fabric is also frequently used in upholstery. Its tight weave and heavy-duty quality make herringbone a go-to fabric for sofa covers and other upholstered furniture.
Durability of herringbone fabric
The herringbone pattern is not only visually distinctive but also contributes to the durability of the fabric. This twill weave creates a zigzag pattern that is inherently robust. It is important to note that the herringbone weave can also enhance the abrasion resistance of the fabric (meaning it won’t wear out as easily).
A heavier herringbone fabric generally offers more durability, which is great for items like furniture that undergo considerable usage. Conversely, lighter herringbone fabrics may be less durable but offer more flexibility and are better used for garments
Drape of herringbone fabric
For the most part, herringbone fabric has a fairly stiff drape. It’s not the kind of fabric that’s going to be used for a lovely, flowing dress. However, it’s also important to note that the stiffness of the drape can be affected dramatically by the fiber used and overall tightness of the weave.
What fiber is typically used with herringbone fabric
Wool is the fiber that is most frequently associated with herringbone fabric. However, herringbone isn’t exclusive to wool. This weave pattern is also applied to other fibers, including cotton, rayon, polyester, and blends of these.
Does herringbone fabric fray easily?
The herringbone weave also helps to reduce fraying. However, like all woven materials, herringbone will fray when cut and the extent will depend on the type of fibers it is made from and the weight of the fabric.
Natural fibers like wool or cotton tend to fray more easily compared to synthetic fibers. Tighter weaves and heavier weights are also more resistance to fraying.
Herringbone vs. chevron design
Herringbone and chevron designs in fabric look similar. Both patterns have a V-shaped weaving style but differ distinctly. Chevron patterns are characterized by a continuous V- shape. Each section of the V aligns perfectly with the next, creating an unbroken zigzag that travels across the fabric. On the other hand, the herringbone pattern appears broken and staggered.
How easy is it to sew with herringbone fabric?
Sewing with herringbone fabric is considered moderately challenging mainly because it tends to be a fairly thick material. Consider switching to a heavy duty needle to help you get through the layers of the fabric.
If you find herringbone fabric provides some resistance when sewing. You may need to adjust the tension and increase the stitch length to accommodate the fabric. While the fabric’s texture can add complexity, it also hides stitches well, so minor imperfections in sewing will be less visible.
When you sew with herringbone fabric, you also must pay close attention to the pattern direction. To make sure the pattern goes in the same direction throughout the garment.
If you want to level up even further, you can try to align the herringbone pattern at the seams of your garment, requiring precise cutting and stitching. Pattern matching like this will help you achieve a truly professional look. Ensure you have extra fabric to allow for the careful alignment of the herringbone pattern.
