Fabric 101: Ponte Knit
Ponte is a type of interlock double knit fabric. It’s known for being fairly stretchy across the grain, but barely stretchy at all along the grainline. Because it’s made up of two layers, ponte is more commonly used for medium-weight clothing that needs more structure than regular jersey fabric can give it.
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| Fabric | Ponte Knit |
| Texture? | Smooth and soft texture |
| Stretch? | About 25% stretch crosswise, no stretch lengthwise |
| Heavy or light? | Medium weight fabric |
| Stiff or drape? | It has some drape but is also not super flowy |
| Nap? | No nap |
| Typical fiber content? | Synthetic, usually a rayon, nylon, and spandex mix |
| Opaque or sheer? | Opaque |
| Shiny? | Ponte is not shiny, but there may be a slight sheen depending on how the light hits it |
| Fraying? | Does not fray |
| Pilling? | Ponte pills easily |
| Cool or warm weather? | Ponte is better for cool weather |
| What to make? | Jackets and cardigans, tops with some structure, long-sleeved T-shirts, medium-weight dresses and skirts, pants of all sorts |
| What needle to use? | Jersey needle sized 80 or 90 |
What kind of fabric is ponte?
Ponte is a type of double-knit fabric that is known for being a comfortable and soft fabric with a little bit of stretch. The material is knitted in a way that makes it stronger than most other types of knit fabrics, making it a good fabric to use even with clothes that face a lot of wear and tear, like sweatpants and jackets.
Ponte is also used in high-end fashion because it’s mostly matte with a beautiful, subtle sheen to it. This fabric can make a normal cotton garment look more elegant, and doesn’t cling to the body too much, like thinner fabrics. It can soften lumps and curves, giving an overall pleasant shape to any body type.
What can you make with ponte fabric?
Ponte knit fabric can be used to make just about any type of garment. It’s most often used for medium-weight autumn or early spring apparel that needs a little bit of structure but isn’t too bulky. It’s great to use for comfortable pants because the fabric stretches. I’ve also used it to make jackets and dresses that are not too flowy.
Properties of ponte knit fabric
- Texture: Ponte is a fairly smooth and soft fabric. Even though it’s made of synthetic fibers, the material usually does not have a plastic-like feel to it (especially if it’s high-quality ponte).
- Stretch: The crosswise stretch of ponte fabric is usually somewhere between 25%-50%. It’s not the most elastic fabric ever, but it still retains enough stretch to make it quite comfortable to wear. Most ponte knits will have very little or no stretch along the length of the fabric.
- Weight: Ponte is a medium-weight fabric. Since it’s double-knit, the material is noticeably heavier than standard single-knit jersey fabric.
- Drape: Ponte knits have a moderate drape to them. The fabric is not as stiff as, say, quilting cotton, but it’s not slinky like charmeuse or crepe.
- Fiber composition: Ponte is almost always made from synthetic fibers, but the type of synthetic can vary. A rayon blend of fibers is the most common. Usually, it will be rayon blended with some nylon and maybe some spandex too. Ponte can be made of 100% polyester as well, but this is typically cheaper and lower quality.
- Opacity: Since it is a double-knit fabric, ponte material should always be opaque.
- Shine: Ponte is mostly matte. However, some types of ponte will have a very subtle sheen along the surface of the fabric. It’s usually only noticeable when the light hits the material just right.
- Fraying: Ponte is a knit fabric. Therefore, the material does not fray the way woven fabrics do
- Pilling: Ponte fabric is prone to pilling and the fibers can get caught and pulled accidentally. This tends to be more of a problem in lower-quality ponte since the cheaper ponte fabrics are not as tightly knitted together.
- Wrinkling: Ponte knits are generally wrinkle-resistant.
- Breathability: Ponte fabric is also not the most breathable. It’s tightly knitted, which doesn’t allow much airflow through the material, and it’s made of synthetic fibers that are less breathable than natural fibers.
How to sew with ponte fabric
Since ponte fabric is more stable than other types of knit material, it’s also a little easier to sew. If you are just getting started learning to sew with knit fabrics, this is actually a good type of material to dip your toes in the water without being too frustrated.
You still need to keep some things in mind when sewing with ponte knit fabrics. First, you need to test the fabric to make sure it doesn’t stretch out too much underneath the presser foot, causing an ugly wavy seam. Since ponte fabric usually does not stretch in the lengthwise direction, this is something that you only have to worry about when sewing a crosswise seam.
Some tips to help keep your fabric from stretching on your sewing machine include:
- Changing the pressure settings on the presser foot so that it’s not clamped down as tightly. (this is usually all I need to do for ponte fabric)
- Adjust the top thread tension on your sewing machine
- Try installing a walking foot on your sewing machine
- Use a knit presser foot
- Apply wash-away tape to the seam before sewing
- Place a piece of tissue paper on top of the seam as you sew
Don’t forget to switch to a jersey needle (also called a ballpoint needle) when sewing with ponte. If you’re still struggling with skipped stitches while using a jersey needle, try switching to a stretch needle instead.
If you want your end garment to retain its elasticity across the seams, you’ll need to use a stretch stitch when sewing your ponte fabric. Switch to a zigzag or lightning-bold stitch on your sewing machine.
