Fabric 101: Chintz
Originally from India, chintz is a cotton fabric that is known for its glazed surface. The fabric goes through a treatment process that coats the face of the fabric in a waxy substance that makes the fabric more durable by preventing rips and snags. This waxy finish gives chintz its characteristic sheen and smooth, waxy surface, setting it apart from other cotton fabrics.
Chintz is best known for its classic floral patterns and its use in upholstery as coverings for sofas and chairs due to the fabric’s high level of durability. However, this fabric is more versatile than that, and has historically been used for everything from stylish clothing to ornate home furnishings.
| Fabric | Chintz |
| Texture? | A waxy, glossy texture |
| Stretch? | No stretch |
| Weight? | Medium-weight |
| Stiff or flowy drape? | Fairly stiff drape |
| Nap? | Not a napped fabric |
| Typical fiber content? | Cotton |
| Opaque or sheer? | Opaque fabric |
| Shiny? | Glossy shine on the front face |
| Fraying? | Expect a standard amount of fraying |
| Pilling? | Resistant to pilling and snagging |
| Other identifying properties? | Chintz has a glazed finish which gives it the glossy texture that the fabric is known for. It also tends to wrinkle easily and the creases are highly visible |
| What to make? | Mostly used for upholstery and curtains, but chintz can also be used for bags, bedding, and some women’s clothing such as voluminous skirts and blouses. |
| What needle to use? | A universal needle |
What kind of fabric is chintz?
Chintz is a type of cotton fabric known for its glazed finish. Originating from India, this fabric originally gained popularity due to its elaborately patterned floral designs and durability for upholstery.
While it’s not used nearly as often nowadays, chintz is known for its unique glossy finish (only on the front face of the fabric). Modern chintz still typically features floral or detailed and colorful prints. The chintz available today continues to be used for home décor, clothing (especially coating), and upholstery.
What can you make with chintz fabric?
Chintz’s cotton base and waxy finish lends it a certain durability, making it suitable for items like handbags, cushion covers, pillows, sofa and chair covering, and window hangings. In clothing, it can also be used for more structured dresses and skirts, as well as jackets and coats.
Properties of chintz fabric
- Texture: Chintz fabric is known for its smooth and glazed surface, giving it a glossy and somewhat waxy texture. Chintz is also a type of fabric that you can hear as you move around (similar to the way taffeta makes a distinct swooshing sound).
- Stretch: Chintz does not have any stretch. The glaze finish further prevents any kind of give, making it an inflexible fabric overall.
- Weight: Most chintz fabric falls into the medium-weight category, but some heavier chintz is used for upholstery (think chintz armchairs), and some more lightweight chintz is better for garments.
- Drape: Chintz fabric is known for its stiffness and ability to hold shape.
- Fiber content: Chintz is always made from cotton. The traditional manufacturing process involves a tight weave of cotton fibers, which contributes to the fabric’s characteristic crispness and its ability to take on a glazed finish.
- Opacity: Most chintz fabric is completely opaque, but that’s not the case 100% of the time. Traditional chintz fabric can range from semi-transparent to opaque depending on the weave and finish.
- Appearance: Chintz is known for its characteristic glossy finish which makes the fabric a bit shiny. It’s worth noting that the glaze that gives chintz its characteristic sheen is applied only to the front side of the fabric. This results in one side being shiny and the other being matte or dull.
- Fraying: Chintz fabric does not fray easily, making it a relatively stable fabric to work with in terms of sewing. However, like any woven fabric, it will fray to some extent.
- Durability: Chintz’s closely woven, plain-weave fabric enhances its durability. This tighter weave offers a level of resistance to snagging. Chintz fabric is also resistant to pilling because the surface glazing of chintz reduces friction, which in turn minimizes the tendency for pilling.
- Wrinkling: Chintz fabric can wrinkle, but it is generally more resistant to wrinkling compared to plain cotton fabrics.
What to know before sewing with chintz
When sewing with chintz, you’ll find that its cotton base makes it a generally cooperative fabric. However, the glazed surface, which is characteristic of chintz, can present a slight challenge.
Be careful when ironing or pressing chintz. While the cotton fabric can withstand higher temperatures, you run the risk of melting or ruining the glazed surface if you use a too-hot iron. Press on the back of the material whenever possible, or using a press cloth to avoid touching the glazed surface of the fabric. It’s also always a good idea to test a scrap of fabric before ironing your final project.
You also need to be careful about poking holes in the glaze with pins since this fabric has less ability to heal than standard cotton. Place any pins you use in the seam allowance so that the pinholes that remain won’t be visible on the final project.
