Fabric 101: Sateen 

Sateen is a type of weave used to make fabric that gives it a very subtle and elegantly smooth appearance. Its tight weave and typical cotton fiber content make the material fairly durable. However, it also tends to be quite comfortable to wear, and more versatile than silk fabrics.

Although the name sounds similar to satin, which is well known as being a shiny type of fabric, the sateen weave is not particularly shiny. It only gives the material a slight sheen on the surface.

Most often, sateen fabric is used to make bedsheets. The material is smooth, making it quite comfortable to sleep next to. At the same time, it’s a durable enough material to withstand day-to-day use. Sateen can also be used in clothing, typically being used to give it a more luxurious feeling than plain poplin shirting.

Fabric	Sateen
Texture?	Smooth and somewhat soft
Stretch?	Non-stretch material
Heavy or light?	Light to medium-weight fabric
Stiff or flowy drape?	Somewhat stiff, but not crisp in texture
Nap?	Not napped
Typical fiber content?	Usually cotton
Opaque or sheer?	Generally opaque, sometimes semi-sheer
Shiny?	Not shiny, but has a definite sheen to the surface
Fraying?	Moderate fraying
Pilling or pulling?	Sateen is prone to having the threads on the face surface snag or pull out of place
Cool or warm weather?	Sateen is best used for moderate temperatures. It’s a bit too lightweight for winter coats, but the weave can be too dense for summer clothing.
What to make?	Eveningwear gowns and dresses, shirts, blouses, skirts, blazers, bedsheets, curtains, and other home decor
What needle to use?	Use a small universal needle (size 60 or 70) or an extra sharp microtex needle

What kind of fabric is sateen?

Sateen is a type of fabric that has a subtle sheen and somewhat crisp texture. It’s made using a type of satin-like weave that uses short cotton spun yarns rather than the long silk or polyester filaments used in satin fabrics. This prevents sateen from being a shiny, glossy material, but also makes the fabric more durable, soft, and less prone to snags and runs.

Sateen is known for its durability, breathability, and moderate sheen. It is often used for bedding and drapery, but can also be used to give garments a slightly more luxurious appearance than just plain cotton.

Sateen fabric vs satin

It’s pretty common to get sateen and satin confused when you’re first learning about fabric. And there’s a reason for that. The two types of fabric are kind of similar. Sateen even got its name from satin originally.

Over time, the term “sateen” emerged to refer to a fabric with a satin-like sheen and smooth texture, yet with a different weave structure than traditional satin,  leading to its recognition as a separate fabric category.

The ways in which sateen and satin differ include:

• Weave: Sateen fabric utilizes a satin weave structure with more weft yarns on the surface, creating a softer and less glossy texture compared to satin.
• Appearance: Sateen fabric has a subtle sheen, resembling a muted luster, whereas satin is known for its high shine and reflective quality. 
• Drape: Sateen fabric has a stiffer and crisper drape compared to satin, which drapes fluidly and gracefully.
• Durability: Sateen is known for its durability and can hold up well to everyday wear and machine washing.
• Breathability: Sateen is usually made from cotton, leading to high breathability while most satin nowadays is made from polyester with low breathability.
• Uses: Sateen fabric is commonly used for bedding, linens, and tailored garments, while satin is typically favored for formal attire, evening gowns, and lingerie.

What can you make with sateen fabric?

Cotton sateen is most often seen in association with bed sheets and pillowcases since it’s smooth and soft while also maintaining good durability. Sateen can also be used for curtains and other types of home decor.

In apparel, sateen’s crisp drape makes it best for clothing that has some structure to it. Things like tailored suits, button-up shirts, and structured dresses are good options. Sateen’s moderate drape lends it well to clothing items requiring a balance between structure and comfort.

Properties of sateen fabric

• Texture: Sateen fabric feels smooth, soft, and silky when you touch it.
• Flexibility: Sateen does not stretch and has very little give, even along the bias.
• Weight: Generally, sateen fabric falls into the medium-weight category. It is heavier than lightweight fabrics like chiffon or organza but lighter than heavyweight fabrics like denim or upholstery textiles. However, the weight can vary depending on the manufacturer and intended use of the fabric.
• Drape: Sateen has a good balance between structure and drape. It is slightly crisper compared to satin due to its denser weave structure.
• Fiber composition: Sateen is typically made from cotton or a cotton blend.
• Opacity: Most sateen is completely opaque. However, some sateen material may be just slightly semi-sheer, especially if it’s a lighter color.
• Shine: Sateen is known for its lustrous appearance, but it does not shine the way satin does. Instead, it has a smooth surface that reflects light with a very subtle shine.
• Fraying: Sateen fabric generally does not fray easily due to its tightly woven structure. However, like all woven fabrics, it will fray over time if the edges are not finished properly.
• Durability: The tightly woven structure of sateen helps minimize snags and tears, making the fabric overall fairly durable.
• Wrinkling: The cotton fiber, weave, and finishing processes involved in sateen production can make it much more prone to wrinkling than satin fabric.
• Breathability: Cotton sateen is fairly breathable and feels comfortable in moderate temperatures. But for very hot temperatures, you’re better off using a lightweight fabric like voile or gauze.

How to sew with sateen fabric

Sewing with sateen is moderately easy. The only part that is likely to give you trouble is the satin-like weave that can make the surface of the sateen fabric a little slippery (but it’s not that bad). You might need to use extra sharp pins and a microtex needle if you find your fabric is puckering when you try to pin and sew it. But usually, a smaller universal needle (size 60 or 70) will work just fine.

How to care for sateen fabric

Sateen is a fairly durable fabric that can be washed in a normal washing machine cycle. If you’re nervous about messing up your hand-sewn garments, you can always use a delicate cycle on the machine. It’s also best to stick to cool water to avoid shrinking the cotton material (if you pre-wash the fabric to pre-shrink it before sewing, the water temperature won’t matter as much).

You can also put sateen into the dryer. But be sure to pay attention to when your laundry load ends. Sateen will start wrinkling pretty much right away after the drying cycle ends. 

Of course, if your sateen garment is wrinkled, all you need to do is iron or steam it to get it back to its usual luster. Since it’s cotton, sateen can usually stand up to medium-high heat on the iron with no problem but always test a swatch or inconspicuous spot first.