Fabric 101: Rayon

Rayon is a type of synthetic fiber that is used to make fabric. It is plant based, using natural plant materials, such as bamboo or beech trees. These materials are mashed into a pulp and chemically treated to create the fibers that are used to create rayon fabrics.

Typically when I think of rayon, I imagine lightweight fabric with a smooth texture and a nice drape. If you see any fabric labeled as rayon with no other description, that is the type of material you should expect.

However, rayon fibers can be used to create many different kinds of fabrics, from rayon velvet to rayon bottom-weight fabrics, and even shiny or sheer rayon fabrics. Since the fiber is made synthetically, there is a lot more variation in how it can be used, similar to the way polyester can make up almost any type of fabric.

What kind of fabric is rayon?

First things first, rayon is not a specific type of fabric. Instead, it is a type of fiber that is used to create materials. The way that these fibers are woven or knitted together affects a lot of the characteristics of the end result.

Rayon is a type of synthetic fiber that is made using pulped plant materials, such as bamboo or beech trees, that are chemically processed to create the final fiber that is used to create fabric. This puts rayon at a crossroads between synthetic fabrics and natural fabrics since it’s made synthetically using natural raw materials instead of plastic.

Properties of rayon fabrics

That being said, the fiber used for fabric does have a significant effect on the end product. A simple woven cotton fabric is going to behave differently than the same type of fabric made of rayon.

These are some properties you can typically expect from fabrics that use rayon as the main fiber:

• Smooth, flowy drape: Rayon always gives the fabric a lovely, comfortable drape. Even medium and heavy-weight rayon fabric will have a significantly smoother drape than fabric that uses other fibers.
• Pleasantly smooth to the touch: The texture of rayon is somewhere in between the softness of cotton and the smoothness of polyester. It can be blended with other fibers to make the texture more comfortable too. For example, I have a wool/rayon blend fabric that does not have the typical wool itchiness because of the rayon content.
• Frays more easily: Rayon fabrics fray very easily especially when compared to cotton or polyester fabrics of the same weave.
• Burns more easily: Rayon burns more easily than most natural fabrics. Its heat tolerance is fairly similar to that of silk fabric, but it can still take more heat than polyester.
• More delicate than cotton, sturdier than silk: Overall, the fabric is a bit delicate and it can rip and tear more easily than a typical cotton fabric. However, it’s not nearly as delicate as high-end fibers, like silk.
• Wrinkles extremely easily: Rayon fabrics wrinkle easily, so they must be hung in a closet or wardrobe instead of being folded to avoid a crumpled appearance.
• Is weak in water: Rayon fibers weaken in water, so aggressive washing cycles can damage the fabric.
• Rayon is fairly breathable: Rayon is a somewhat breathable fabric, but not the best. It’s better than polyester at keeping you cool on hot days, but not nearly as good as natural fabrics like cotton, linen, or even lightweight wool.

Common types of rayon 

Rayon is the overarching term that is used for plant-based synthetic fibers. It is categorized based on the process that’s used to create the fibers. The most common types include:

• Viscose: This is by far the most common type of rayon (if a fabric is just called rayon, it’s probably viscose). It’s the original way that rayon was created and has the most toxic manufacturing methods.
• Modal: This is a softer type of rayon fabric that tends to have a bit more flow to it. It’s often used in jersey-type fabric. This type of fabric is more eco-conscious than viscose.
• Lyocell: This type of fabric is among the most eco-friendly rayon fabrics, especially TENCEL lyocell (brand name). It’s usually used to make sturdier rayon fabrics, such as twill or chambray.

Is rayon a sustainable fabric?

The sustainability of rayon fabric depends on two aspects of the fabric’s creation: 

• The type of raw material that was used to make it in the first place (was it bamboo or beech trees, or are historical forests being cut down to make it) 
• The process from which these raw materials are being turned into fiber (how much chemical waste is being created during the process?).

Most traditional types of rayon get bad scores on both of these criteria. The source material for rayon is questionable with some of it coming from forests that are already overexploited. In addition, The process of creating rayon fiber makes a lot of chemical waste that is usually not contained well (meaning it ends up contaminating the surrounding environment). 

Bamboo material is a type of rayon that seeks to solve the first problem. It uses fast-growing bamboo plants rather than causing further environmental destruction by overharvesting rainforest trees. However, usually this material does not address the second issue of chemical contamination in the environment.

Modal and Lyocell (especially TENCEL brand) are the highest standards for rayon fabric. They strive to only use wood and wood pulp that has been harvested sustainably and have created a closed-loop chemical system that reuses the chemicals needed to create the fiber, rather than dump them into the environment. This makes modal and lyocell the most sustainable options for rayon fiber production.

• Learn more about where to buy fabric sustainably

What can you make with rayon fabric?

Because rayon fiber can be used for just about any type of fabric, it can also be used for any type of clothing. It all depends on the way the fibers are woven or knitted together. For example, you can have a sturdy rayon twill fabric that makes a great pair of pants, or a rayon velvet that is meant for more upscale and elegant clothing.

If the rayon you’re purchasing is just called rayon (with no other explanation for the type of fabric), it’s usually referring to a fabric that is similar to a light-to-medium weight cotton, but with a much flowier drape. This type of fabric is best used for airy skirts, dresses, or lightweight shirts that have a flowy feel to them.

What to Know before sewing with rayon

Since rayon is generally a fabric with a flowy and slippery drape, it can be frustrating for a beginner sewists to work with. This is because the fabric tends to move around a lot and warp more easily than more structured types of materials. 

The other aspect that I find challenging with rayon fabric, in general, is the fraying. All the rayon material that I’ve worked with has frayed fairly easily. I’ve had to be careful to not over-handle the fabric pieces, and make sure to use a secure form of finishing the seam (pinking shears are definitely not good enough).

• With lightweight rayon fabrics, you will want to use a smaller needle (usually size 70)
• Use a rotary cutter to cut out pattern pieces (with a cutting mat underneath) with pattern weights holding it down. This will help you get more precise cuts since the fabric won’t be shifting around so much as you try to cut it.
• Avoid handling the pattern pieces as much as possible. This will keep them from fraying too much during the sewing process.
• Don’t skip staystitching. Rayon has a tendency to warp and distort. The staystitching keeps the edges from stretching out.
• Consider using French seams or flat felled seams to enclose fabric edges prevent excessive fraying.

All that being said, I also don’t consider rayon to be an incredibly difficult material to work with either. It’s an excellent challenge for an advanced beginner who’s starting to work with different types of materials.

Do you need to pre-wash rayon fabric?

I highly recommend pre-washing your rayon. This is one type of fabric that has a greater chance of shrinking when you wash it. If you skip this step you might find the garment that fit you before you washed it is now too small. When pre-washing rayon fabric, use the same machine settings that you intend to use when washing the final garment.

How to care for rayon fabric

• Storing rayon clothing: It’s best to hang it up rather than folding it in a dresser or wardrobe. This is because rayon can wrinkle incredibly fast, so if you want to avoid ironing or steaming your clothes every single day, hanging it is the way to go.
• How to iron or press: Rayon will burn easily if you use a setting that is too hot. You don’t need to keep the iron on the absolute lowest settings, but it should be kept medium-low. If your iron doesn’t have a setting for rayon, I usually put it around the same as the settings for silk.
• Washing rayon: It’s best to use cold water when washing rayon, to avoid shrinkage. You also may want to use a mesh wash bag or the delicate settings on your washing machine, since rayon fibers weaken in water and can get damaged more easily than other fibers.