Fabric 101: Satin 

Satin is a type of weave that is used to give fabric a glossy or shiny surface. Satin is not a specific type of material but is instead an overall category of fabric that uses the same weave and has similar characteristics. The types of fabric in this category will all include a shiny surface, but the drape and weight of the material can vary.

Satin is fairly flexible and soft. However, it’s also not known for being all that durable, and satin can be difficult to sew with due to the slippery nature of the glossy surface.  

Overall, satin-weave materials are considered luxurious and high-end. The fabric is most often used for evening wear and high fashion. However, satin fabrics can be used for a wide range of projects, including shoes, bags, scarves, and even bed sheets.

Fabric	Satin
Texture?	Smooth and glossy on one side, the reverse side is matte and somewhat rough
Stretch?	Non-stretch, but has some natural give to the fabric
Heavy or light?	Mostly lightweight, but can be medium-weight as well
Stiff or flowy drape?	Typically has a somewhat flowy drape, but it depends on the type of fabric
Nap?	No nap
Typical fiber content?	Traditionally silk, now polyester is most common (other fibers, such as rayon, are also used)
Opaque or sheer?	Typically opaque, but lighter colors and more lightweight satin can be semi-sheer
Shiny?	Highly shiny fabric
Fraying?	Moderate fraying, some types of satin can fray significantly
Pilling or snagging?	Satin is resistant to pilling, but the smooth surface is prone to snag on sharp or rough objects
Cool or warm weather?	Usually, better suited for warm weather, but it can be layered for cold weather garments
What to make?	Evening wear (including wedding dresses), blouses, accessories, lingerie, costumes, home decor
What needle to use?	It’s usually best to use an extra sharp microtex needle

What kind of fabric is satin?

Satin fabric is known for its smooth and shiny appearance. It is made using a special weaving method. The weave of the yarns is designed to minimize the number of interlacings per square inch, creating an uninterupted glossy surface.

Traditionally, satin was exclusively made from silk; however, modern satin fabrics are almost always made from polyester or a synthetic blend (unless you’re getting the real expensive stuff). While this weaving technique is versatile and can be adapted to various thicknesses and fibers, poly satin can never quite live up to the original silk texture. However, it is significantly cheaper, which is why it’s so common now.

Types of satin fabric

There are several different types of satin fabric, each with its own distinct characteristics.  Depending on the fiber content, weight, and weave variations, satin fabrics can exhibit different textures, drapes, and properties. Here are some of the most common types:

• Silk Satin: Considered the epitome of luxury, silk satin is made from 100% silk fibers. It is incredibly soft and has an exceptional drape. Silk satin is pretty much only used for high-end apparel and bridal wear.
• Poly Satin: Also called polyester satin, this type is a more affordable alternative to silk satin. It is made from synthetic polyester fibers, offering a similar glossy appearance and smooth texture. Poly satin is widely used in costumes, dance attire, and linings.
• Charmeuse: Charmeuse is a lightweight and delicate satin fabric. It is softer and has a more body-hugging drape than most other types of satin.
• Crepe-back Satin: Crepe-back satin, sometimes referred to as reversible satin, has a matte crepe texture on one side and a shiny satin finish on the other.
• Duchess Satin: Duchess satin, known for its medium-weight and crisp finish, is commonly used in formalwear and bridal gowns. It has a slight stiffness which helps maintain the structure of garments, making it a popular choice for structured dresses and ball gowns.
• Stretch Satin: elastic satin, as the name suggests, has added stretch due to the inclusion of elastane or spandex fibers. This type of satin fabric is commonly used in form-fitting garments, lingerie, and even sometimes swimwear and activewear.
• Satin-Face Organza: Satin organza combines the smoothness of satin with the sheer and crisp qualities of organza. This lightweight fabric is commonly used for elegant eveningwear, bridal gowns, and decorative overlays.
• Slipper Satin: Slipper satin is a medium-weight satin fabric often used for ballet slippers and shoes.

What can you make with satin fabric?

Satin is most often used for evening wear, but you’ll also see it used with nice blouses, skirts, and other types of apparel that you want to give a more elegant edge. You’ll also frequently find satin used in cosplay and costuming since the material can give costumes a richer, high-end look. Outside of apparel, satin is also used for pillowcases, bedding, curtains, and other types of more home decor items.

Properties of satin fabric

• Texture: Satin fabrics will have a smooth and glossy surface. However, silk satin will be much softer overall than synthetic types. Polyester satin can often have a subtle hint of a plastic-like feel to it.
• Weight: Generally, satin fabric is lightweight to medium weight. However, the weight of satin can vary depending on the specific type and intended use of the fabric.
• Drape: Most satin fabric is known for its soft and smooth drape. However, this is another area that can vary depending on factors such as its weight, fiber content, fabric type, and finish. For example, duchess satin will have a much crisper drape than charmeuse.
• Fiber content: The most common fiber used to create satin is currently polyester, however silk, rayon, and blends of these fibers are also available.
• Opacity: Most of the time, satin is an opaque fabric. However, there are some exceptions. For example, satin-face organza is made to be semi-sheer, like organza, while still maintaining the satin shine.
• Shine: The satin weave is designed to create a smooth and reflective surface, resulting in an extremely shiny appearance.
• Fraying: Satin fabric will have a moderate amount of fray. Some types fray more easily than others. Satin blends with synthetic fibers tend to have better resistance to fraying compared to natural silk satin.
• Durability: Snagging is a concern with satin, especially if it comes into contact with rough or sharp surfaces. The delicate nature of satin means that it can catch and snag on things like jewelry, rough nails, or sharp edges.
• Wrinkling: Polyester satin is known for its wrinkle-resistant properties compared to natural silk satin. While satin doesn’t wrinkle too easily, when it does, the smooth and sleek surface is prone to showing creases more prominently than to fabrics.
• Breathability: Most satin (especially poly satin) is not breathable at all and can get quite uncomfortable in hot summer months. Polyester satin is best for mild weather in spring or autumn since it’s not known for its insulating properties either.

How to sew with satin fabric

Satin is not the easiest type of fabric for a beginner to sew. For one, the delicate nature of the material means that it is easy to pucker or damage the surface of the fabric with pins and needles. It also tends to be quite slippery due to the smooth, glossy surface and flowy draping qualities. Since satin can also fray fairly easily, you also need to pay attention to your seams to make sure you finish them properly and avoid overhandling the fabric.

Use these tips to help when sewing with satin fabric:

• Use pins with extra fine points. You can purchase ultra-fine pins that will do a better job and gripping the fabric without damaging it. However, it’s still best to use the pins only in the seam allowance of the fabric, to avoid creating visible pinholes.
• Use a sharp microtex needle to avoid puckering and damaging the fabric as you sew. With some satin fabric you can get away with using a small universal needle instead (size 60 or 70), but always test on a scrap of fabric before trying to sew your final garment.
• Stitch Length: Set your sewing machine to a shorter stitch length, preferably between 1.5 to 2 mm. This will prevent the stitches from appearing too long or causing the fabric to gather.
• Thread Tension: If necessary, adjust your thread tension to a lower setting, around 2 or 3. This will help keep the stitches even and prevent the fabric from bunching or puckering.
• Presser Foot: You can also switch to a satin foot or a walking foot to help prevent the fabric from slipping as much while you sew.
• Secure your fabric with tissue paper: Place tissue paper or a lightweight stabilizer beneath your fabric layers to add stability and prevent them from shifting or stretching while sewing.
• Consider hand basting or wonder tape: Use basting stitches or temporary fabric adhesive (wash away tape) to hold slippery fabric layers in place before permanent stitching.

How to care for satin fabric

If you have real silk satin, you’ll want to hand-wash your garments or get them dry-cleaned since silk is a very delicate material. However, poly satin is a little bit easier to take care of.

Polyester satin can generally be machine-washed. Before washing, it’s best to close any zippers or fastenings and turn the fabric inside out to protect its sheen and prevent snags. You may want to use a wash bag to be sure the satin garment doesn’t get damaged. When washing, avoid using hot water since this can affect the shine of the satin. You also generally want to stick to a delicate cycle on the washing machine.

Polyester satin can also usually withstand tumble drying on low or delicate heat settings. For the most part, polyester clothing has little chance of shrinking in the dryer, but it is possible that something could snag and damage the shiny satin surface.

How to iron or press satin fabric

While most poly satin is wrinkle-resistant, you might still need to iron it occasionally. When you do, it’s best to turn the garment inside out and iron on low heat settings. This will prevent the heat from damaging the shiny surface by melting it.