How to Buy Fabric Ethically

I decided to learn how to sew because I wanted to wear clothes that are not the result of exploited workers and do not have a substantial negative impact on the environment. Unfortunately, I’ve learned that sewing clothes for myself does not automatically eliminate the environmental impact that my clothes have. So that meant it was time to do some research and learn what other steps I could take to source my fabric and clothing ethically.

The best way to buy fabric ethically is to find unused fabric that already exists rather than buying new. Look for terms like destash fabric and deadstock fabric to find material that would be discarded otherwise. This can even include old sheets and curtains that are still in good condition.

You can also learn about different types of material (cotton, linen, rayon, etc.) to choose the ones that fit with your code of ethics.

1. Look for second-hand fabric stores

The best way to buy fabric ethically is to purchase fabric that is already in existence and does not use new resources to create and sell. Just like you would buy used clothes to avoid supporting the fast fashion industry, you can find places that sell previously owned fabric.

There are generally two types of “used” fabric you’ll be able to find (I use quotation marks because it technically hasn’t been used if it hasn’t been sewn into anything yet).

• Destash fabric: This is what you instinctively think of as second hand fabric. It is unwanted fabric from people who no longer intend to use it. For example, my grandma had a whole wall full of unused fabric in her basement. There is no way I could make space for all of it, so some of it got donated and sold to second-hand shops. It can also include stock from fabric shops that go out of business. That’s what destash fabric is.
• Deadstock fabric: This is fabric that cannot be sold because of some minor damage or excess fabric from apparel companies that would otherwise be thrown away.

Some second-hand fabric shops also stock eco-friendly and certified organic fabrics as well to help them have some consistency in their wares. This will be included in the description of the individual fabric or line of fabrics.

Store	Location	Notes (deadstock, destash, sustainable fabrics)
A Thrifty Notion	USA	Deadstock, destash, sustainable fabrics
FabScrap	USA	Mostly deadstock fabric, some destash as well
Swanson Fabric	USA	Destash fabric
FabCycle	Canada	Deadstock
Our Social Fabric	Canada	Mostly deadstock, some destash
Queen of Raw	USA	Deadstock
Revival Fabrics	USA	Vintage destash
The Fabric Store	New Zealand	Deadstock, sustainable fabrics
Core Fabrics	Canada	Sustainable fabrics, some deadstock
Fabric Mart	USA	Deadstock
NONA	Paris, France, London	Deadstock
Merchant and Mills	UK	Deadstock, sustainable fabrics
The Remnant Warehouse	Australia	Deadstock

2. Reuse sheets, curtains, etc.

Garments, quilts, and other sewing projects don’t have to be made from bolts of fabric. It can be made from any type of material. I once made a pair of super cute floral overalls with fabric that was supposed to be curtains.

If you don’t want to use old sheets or curtains in your final garments, you can still use them to create mock-ups. Instead of buying cheap muslin, you can use old sheets and bedding, or even buy used sheets from online.

3. Look for environmentally friendly fabrics

Most fabrics that are made do not have the most sustainable production methods. Whether it be growing and harvesting methods, the energy used to turn the raw materials into the fabric, or the dye and chemical pollution, there are a lot of parts of the fabric manufacturing process that can be harmful to the environment.

However, there has been some effort made in the past few decades to address some of those problems and make more sustainable fabric. Unfortunately, most of the more sustainable types of fabric are also on the more expensive side. But if you’re willing to spend the extra bucks for a more environmentally friendly production, then look for some of these types of fabrics at your local shop (or online):

• Organic cotton: organic cotton uses significantly less energy and water to create than standard cotton fabric.
• Recycled cotton: recycled cotton is not common, but if you can find fabric certified as recycled, then it uses less of the original plant. As the technology stands today, it’s usually not 100% recycled and is instead blended with some new cotton.
• tencel/Lyocel/modal: these are subcategories of rayon that use less overall energy to create and produce minimal toxic waste.
• Hemp: hemp is considered to be one of the most sustainable types of fiber because it takes very little water and energy in growing and production, and it creates very strong fabric.
• Linen: linen is generally considered a sustainable fabric because there is very little waste in the production process, especially if it’s organic.

4. Support local businesses

In my experience, small business fabric stores are more likely to care about the environmental and social impacts of the items they stock too. This makes it easier to find those types of fabrics that are more sustainable. The shop owners will also probably be open to suggestions if there is a type of fabric you want available.

Not only that, but you’ll also be supporting a small business and investing in your local community. Physically going to a nearby shop is also usually better than getting everything shipped directly to you, since shipping adds to the overall fuel and energy cost of the fabric.

5. Salvage notions from existing worn-out clothes

When you wear them long enough, all clothing will eventually wear out. Before getting rid of or recycling old, unusable clothing, be sure to harvest anything from the garment that’s still useful.

For example, maybe your jeans are worn out with too many holes in unfortunate places. You can take out your handy-dandy seam ripper and remove the zipper and buttons to use in a future project.

You can do the same thing with cool-looking clasps on jackets, button-up shirts, and even elastic if it isn’t completely stretched out. Sometimes you can even cut out chunks of the material that are still in decent condition to use as patches and pockets on other garments.

Bonus: Use fabric you already have first

Before buying any new (or previously owned) fabric, use what you already have in your stash. I am absolutely guilty of this. I love adding new fabrics to my stash. I know how tempting it is to get more fabric with all the beautiful patterns available. It’s even more so when you buy used and know you won’t be able to get the fabric again once it’s sold out. But try to resist as much as possible.

If you have some yard fragments that are too small to make anything out of, try using them as contrast colors and color-blocking your patterns for a more interesting look. The more you use what you already own, the more sustainable your sewing practice is.