Are All Types of Linen Fabric Sustainable?

Linen is well regarded as one of the most sustainable types of fabric you can buy. It uses less water when farming and the whole plant can be used for food and fiber purposes. But, does linen live up to this reputation? After all, it’s a fairly expensive fabric, so you want to make sure it’s really worth it if you’re going to start buying more linen for your sewing projects.

In general, linen does live up to this reputation. Of course, there are some variations depending on how the linen was farmed and manufactured. For example, Organic linen is generally considered more sustainable than linen that uses conventionally grown flax. 

The type of dye and chemicals used in the weaving and manufacturing of the fabric also play a role in the environmental impact of linen fabric. If these are concerns for you, opting for Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) certified or OEKO-TEX Standard 100 can help you pick the more sustainable fabrics.

Why is linen a sustainable fabric?

Linen is a sustainable fabric due to its eco-friendly cultivation and production processes. It is derived from flax plants, which require minimal water and pesticides to grow compared to other crops. Linen is also naturally biodegradable and highly durable, reducing the environmental impact caused by disposal.

• Water usage: flax cultivation requires significantly less water compared to other crops, especially conventional cotton.
• Chemical use and ecological impact: Flax also requires fewer pesticides and fertilizers, reducing chemical pollution, while having a positive impact on biodiversity, as it attracts beneficial insects and supports healthy ecosystems.
• Durability and longevity: The natural strength of linen fibers enables them to withstand frequent use and regular laundering without losing their integrity. Linen’s resistance to stretching, tearing, and pilling ensures that it remains in excellent condition for a long time.
• End-of-life considerations: When discarded properly, linen decomposes relatively quickly. As long as natural dyes are used, 100% linen garments can be composted at the end of their life.

Is linen more sustainable compared to cotton fabric?

Linen is often considered more sustainable than cotton. Linen is made from flax, a crop that requires less water than cotton during cultivation. Moreover, flax grows naturally with fewer chemical fertilizers and pesticides, making it less resource-intensive and reducing environmental pollution. 

Linen is also known for its durability, meaning products made from linen tend to last longer than those made from cotton, reducing the need for frequent replacements. Linen has better breathability and moisture-wicking properties, which can contribute to reduced energy consumption for cooling. 

However, it’s important to consider specific factors such as organic certification, production processes, and supply chain practices for both linen and cotton to fully assess their sustainability impact.

Organic linen vs. conventionally grown

Linen, both conventional and organic, is more sustainable than most standard types of fabric sources (such as cotton, polyester, and wool). However, organically grown linen is considered more sustainable than conventionally grown linen. 

While linen, in general, uses less pesticides than other crops, organically grown linen eliminates the use of harmful pesticides, herbicides, and synthetic fertilizers altogether.  Organic farming practices emphasize water conservation and sustainable irrigation techniques, reducing the overall water footprint of the crop.

Organic linen production focuses on improving soil health through practices like crop rotation, composting, and natural pest control. This approach enhances soil fertility, promotes beneficial microorganisms, and reduces soil erosion. Organic linen farming practices also reduce the risk of chemical residues on the fabric, making it safer for consumers and workers in the supply chain.

However, it’s important to point out that organic practices are based on the farming techniques of the flax plant. They don’t prevent synthetic dyes and chemical finishes from being used on the linen fabric during the production of the material.

Pay attention to the type of dye used

One way to choose the most sustainable type of linen is by looking for an organic label. However, it’s also important to look for potential environmental damage done during the dyeing process of the linen fabric.

Conventional dyeing methods often involve the use of synthetic dyes and chemicals that can be harmful to the environment and human health. These chemicals may pollute waterways, contribute to air pollution, and pose risks to workers handling them.

Dyeing linen also requires a substantial amount of water, particularly during the rinsing and washing stages. Conventional dyeing processes may result in water wastage and contribute to water scarcity issues, especially if wastewater is not properly treated and discharged. In the same vein, conventional linen dyeing practices also involve energy-intensive processes such as heating water, maintaining optimal dyeing temperatures, and drying fabric.

To avoid this, sustainable alternatives (such as natural, plant-based dyes, low-impact dyes, and water-saving dyeing techniques) are available. These methods minimize the use of harsh chemicals, reduce water consumption, and lower environmental impact.

You can opt for fabrics dyed with natural or low-impact dyes, and support companies that prioritize sustainable dyeing processes. This isn’t reserved for linen either. Promoting water and energy conservation in the dyeing industry, along with natural alternatives, is a step towards a more sustainable future.

Certifications used with linen fabrics

There are several certifications that are commonly used with linen fabrics to verify their sustainability and quality. These certifications include:

1. Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS): GOTS is a globally recognized certification that ensures the organic status of textiles. Linen fabrics with GOTS certification meet strict criteria, including the use of organic fibers, environmentally friendly processing, and adherence to social criteria throughout the entire supply chain.
2. OEKO-TEX Standard 100: This certification guarantees that linen fabrics are free from harmful substances and chemicals. It ensures that the fabric has been tested at every stage of production and confirmed to meet rigorous human-ecological requirements, promoting consumer safety and sustainable textile production.
3. Masters of Linen: Masters of Linen is a mark of excellence for linen fabrics that are entirely made in Europe, following stringent environmental and ethical standards. This certification ensures traceability, high-quality fibers, sustainable farming practices, and responsible manufacturing
4. Bluesign: The Bluesign system focuses on minimizing the environmental impact of the textile industry. This certification ensures that linen fabric has been produced using environmentally friendly processes while avoiding synthetic dyes that may harm ecosystems.
5. European Flax: European Flax certification confirms that the linen fabric has been made from flax that meets specific quality and sustainability standards. It assures that the flax has been grown, processed, and spun in Europe, adhering to strict environmental and social criteria.

Remember, certifications provide a level of assurance, but it’s also valuable to research specific brands or manufacturers that prioritize natural dyeing processes and transparency in their supply chains.

Why don’t we use linen more frequently?

Linen’s sustainability, durability, breathability, and natural aesthetic appeal make it a desirable fabric for many conscious consumers. However, it’s not all that common. It’s estimated that linen (or flax fibers) makes up only about 1% of the global apparel industry.

If linen is such a great fiber, why don’t we use it more? The main reason is the price of linen, but there are also other linen qualities that make it less popular overall. Despite this, it’s my hope that as awareness and appreciation for sustainable and eco-friendly materials continue to grow, we may see increased usage and prominence of linen 

Linen is more expensive to produce

Probably the number one reason linen isn’t used as much is that it’s expensive compared to common fibers like cotton or polyester. This means that the material can be cost-prohibitive to lower-income individuals, and linen garments can even feel expensive if you’re making a middle income.

Why is linen so expensive?

1. The production of linen involves multiple labor-intensive steps, starting from cultivating and harvesting flax plants to processing the fibers and weaving them into fabric. These processes require skilled labor and increased time and effort, adding to the production cost.
2. Flax has relatively limited cultivation compared to other fiber crops such as cotton. This limited availability affects the overall supply, leading to higher prices.
3. The process of turning flax fibers into linen fabric involves various specialized techniques. These processes require additional machinery, expertise, and time, contributing to the overall cost.
4. Linen is often produced using sustainable cultivation practices, such as low water usage and reduced reliance on pesticides. These practices, while beneficial for the environment, can increase production costs.
5. The production of linen in more heavily regulated countries, such as those in Europe, can contribute to its relatively higher cost. These countries often have stricter environmental regulations, labor standards, and safety measures in place, which can increase production costs compared to regions with more relaxed regulations.

Linen is somewhat rough or itchy

Beyond just the price, linen is also less popular than soft fabrics, like cotton, due to its reputation for being a rough, itchy fabric. As someone with sensitive skin, this is something that initially made me uninterested in linen material.

Linen fibers have a distinct irregular shape with inherent variations in thickness. These fibers are spun and woven into the fabric, resulting in a slightly textured surface. Moreover, linen fabric undergoes minimal processing compared to other fabrics. It often retains more natural impurities and plant matter, enhancing its rustic texture.

However, it’s worth noting that linen becomes softer and more comfortable with each use and wash. Over time, the fabric undergoes a natural process of breaking in, resulting in a softer texture that is much more comfortable to wear. 

Advancements in textile technology also mean that it’s now possible to find linen fabrics with varying levels of softness straight off the bolt. Laundering and softening techniques can also be employed to enhance the comfort and softness of linen, reducing any perception of roughness.

Linen wrinkles easily

Linen is indeed known for its natural tendency to wrinkle more easily than other fabrics. This characteristic is primarily due to the structure and properties of linen fibers. Linen fibers have inherent irregularities and a relaxed structure, which allows them to flex and bend more readily. As a result, wrinkles and creases can form when linen fabric is folded or compressed.

If you’re the kind of person who wants a pristine, wrinkle-free look, you’ll need to spend a lot of time ironing and steaming any linen garments you own. This just adds to the list of wardrobe maintenance tasks and can be frustrating, especially since cotton and polyester generally require less attention.