Is 100% Cotton a Sustainable Fabric?

Cotton is a type of fiber used in clothing that has a lot of potential. It has been used for thousands of years to create comfortable, breathable garments, and it is also quite durable and versatile. However, modern farming and manufacturing practices are also completely unsustainable at the current level of production.

That being said, 100% organic cotton is considered a sustainable fiber for textiles. Organic cotton farming standards use significantly less water and use standards that don’t harm the surrounding environment during the growing process. The global organic standard also takes worker safety and compensation into account.

Is 100% cotton a sustainable fabric?

While cotton has its virtues, most 100% cotton fabric is not nearly as sustainable as most people believe. On the positive side, cotton is a natural and biodegradable material, which aligns with eco-friendly principles. However, the production of conventional cotton requires vast amounts of water, pesticides, and energy, leading to significant environmental impact. 

One notable issue is the heavy reliance on synthetic pesticides and chemical fertilizers. These chemicals not only harm biodiversity and contaminate water systems but also pose health risks to farmers and surrounding communities. Additionally, conventional cotton farming requires extensive irrigation, contributing to water scarcity and placing a burden on already strained water resources. 

There are also energy-intensive processes involved in conventional cotton production. Factors such as harvesting, processing, and transportation, contribute to greenhouse gas emissions and climate change

Then there are the ethical issues related to workers’ rights for many of the farmers involved in conventional cotton production, especially in cotton grown in India. The use of genetically modified organisms (GMOs) in conventional cotton raises concerns related to seed ownership and farmer dependence. 

However, not all cotton is created equal. Organic cotton does a lot to mitigate the negative environmental impacts of conventionally grown cotton. Organic cotton farming relies on natural processes, such as crop rotation and pest management techniques, that can reduce water usage and cut down on pesticides and energy consumption. This makes organic cotton a much better option if you’re looking to use sustainable materials in your sewing projects.

How cotton could be a much more sustainable option

Most conventionally grown cotton is not sustainable, but there is still a lot of potential for the fiber if we can address the main issues with cotton production. The good news is that many of these issues are being addressed in organic practices and global textile certifications (see the end of this article).

1. Cotton is a durable fiber. Cotton fabric generally lasts quite a long time and is easy to care for. If we wear our clothes over and over again, rather than constantly buying new ones it increases the sustainability of the fiber.
2. We have better growing methods. With advanced irrigation techniques and organic farming practices, cotton cultivation can be water-efficient. This reduces the strain on water resources, especially in regions prone to drought or water scarcity
3. We can use natural dyes with the fabric. Using natural dyes rather than synthetic ones in the production of cotton reduces the chance of environmental contamination.
4. Cotton can be recyclable and compostable. Cotton is a natural fiber derived from plants, making it renewable and biodegradable. At the end of its life cycle, cotton products can break down naturally without harming the environment.
5. We can make standards and laws protecting farmers and workers globally. Global and enforced standards that protect workers can and should be made to make cotton material a more ethical option.

Why cotton is not usually a sustainable fabric

1. Cotton uses a lot of water to grow

Conventional cotton farming consumes substantial amounts of water due to irrigation requirements and the need to combat pests and weeds. Cotton thrives in warm climates and requires an extended growing season. 

These conditions often coincide with regions that have limited access to water resources. As a result, irrigation is necessary to supply the required amount of water for cotton plants to grow and produce fiber. This puts even more strain on water sources that are necessary for the surrounding community.

2. Pesticide usage in cotton farming is extensive 

Conventional cotton farming often relies heavily on chemical pesticides and herbicides to combat pests and control weed growth. These practices can disrupt the natural balance of ecosystems and increase water consumption in the process.

Pesticides used in cotton farming can have unintended consequences for the environment. They can contaminate water bodies via runoff or leaching, harming aquatic organisms and impacting water quality.

 Pesticides can also have adverse health effects on farmers and agricultural workers who come into direct contact with these chemicals during application. This exposure can lead to acute poisoning, chronic illnesses, and long-term health complications.

3. The cotton industry takes advantage of small, low-income farmers

Farmers have become heavily dependent on expensive genetically modified seeds, often sold by multinational corporations. This dependence has resulted in inflated seed prices, driving some farmers into debt and perpetuating a cycle of poverty. 

The pressure to repay loans, often taken to cover expenses related to farming, coupled with unpredictable weather patterns and market uncertainties, have pushed many farmers into deep financial crises. As a result, there has been a distressingly high frequency of suicides among cotton farmers in India.

4. Child labor and forced labor are consistently seen in cotton-growing

Child and slave labor practices have been documented in certain regions involved in cotton farming, especially in countries where labor laws and enforcement mechanisms are weaker. The Bureau of International Labor Affairs has a list of 16 countries that are believed to violate international standards because of their repeated offenses of child and forced labor in their cotton production. Many of these countries are the largest producers of conventional cotton.

5. Energy-intensive processing and transportation practices

Conventional cotton farming often relies heavily on mechanized equipment, such as tractors, irrigation systems, and harvesting machines, which consume significant amounts of energy. Additionally, the production of synthetic fertilizers and pesticides used in cotton farming requires substantial energy inputs.

However, that’s only part of it. The process of turning harvested cotton into fabric is also an energy-intensive process. From ginning to spinning, dyeing, and transportation, the energy usage in the production of cotton needs to be addressed.

Is 100% organic cotton better for people and the environment?

I’ll be honest, I’m not typically the type of person who cares whether the produce I purchase at the grocery store is organic or not. However, when it comes to cotton crops specifically, I’ve come to realize that organic growing methods make a huge difference in the sustainability and ethical production of the fiber. 

This is one of the few times I can say with certainty that organic cotton is absolutely worth the higher price.

Growing methods and their effect on the environment

Organic cotton farming prohibits the use of synthetic pesticides and chemical fertilizers. This reduces the pollution and negative impacts associated with the use of toxic chemicals, safeguarding the health of ecosystems, wildlife, and surrounding communities. This practice prioritizes building and maintaining soil health, resulting in improved water retention and better microbial biodiversity due to enhanced soil fertility.

Furthermore, organic methods often encourage practices like rainwater harvesting, efficient irrigation techniques, and soil moisture management, which help conserve water resources and reduce overall water usage.

What is not included in the organic cotton label

While the organic cotton label signifies certain environmental and social standards, there are some factors that may not be explicitly covered by the label. Here are a few examples:

1. Worker Welfare: While organic farming methods generally promote safer conditions and reduced exposure to harmful chemicals, the organic label does not guarantee specific worker welfare standards or address broader labor-related issues such as worker rights, freedom of association, or collective bargaining.
2. Supply Chain Transparency: The organic cotton label primarily focuses on the cultivation of cotton using organic practices. However, it may not address the visibility or transparency of the entire supply chain. Issues related to dyes and chemical treatments in factories after harvesting are not included in the organic label.

What certifications can you look for with cotton fabrics?

If you want to be sure that the fabric you get is both ethical and sustainable, there are certain certifications that you can look for to help you make the best decision. The following certifications are used to promote better cotton growing practices and more ethical working conditions in the cotton industry:

• Fair Trade: Cotton is produced following ethical standards to ensure fair compensation for farmers, empower communities, and promote sustainable agricultural practices.
• Better Cotton Initiative (BCI): The Better Cotton Initiative (BCI) is a global nonprofit organization that promotes more sustainable cotton production by providing training and support to farmers, improving water management, reducing chemical use, and advocating for decent working conditions in cotton farming communities.
• Global Organic Textile Standard: The Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) is a globally recognized certification that ensures the organic status of textiles, including cotton, throughout the supply chain. It sets comprehensive criteria for organic farming and covers important aspects such as environmental sustainability, social responsibility, and the use of safe and non-toxic substances in textile production.
• OEKO-TEX Certified Cotton: This certification ensures that the cotton has been grown, harvested, and processed in an ecologically conscious manner, free from harmful substances and chemicals
• OEKO-TEX STEP: is a comprehensive certification system that focuses on sustainable production practices in the textile industry. STEP sets strict criteria for social responsibility, environmental performance, and chemical management throughout the entire textile supply chain. It evaluates factors such as waste management, energy consumption, worker safety, and the use of harmful substances.