How to Read a Simplicity Sewing Pattern
Simplicity sewing patterns tend to be some of the easiest patterns to start with. They usually include instructions that are detailed and easy to follow as long as you get one of their less complicated patterns. Simplicity patterns also tend to have the most robust pattern layout diagrams.
The pattern instructions and markings are fairly standard, but all pattern brands have their own look and feel. If you’re just picking up your first pattern, I’ll walk you through the Simplicity layout and instructions so that you know how to approach the construction and can easily get started.
Reading a Simplicity pattern envelope
The first step to understanding a sewing pattern is learning to read the sewing envelope. It tells you basic information about design features, fabric, sizing, and supplies you need to create the final garment. You always want to keep the pattern envelope with the sewing pattern instructions. The information on the envelope usually doesn’t appear anywhere else on the pattern pieces or instruction booklet.
The front of the pattern envelope
On the front of the envelope, you’ll find the basic information to expect from your sewing pattern. This will include what the final garment should look like, as well as some design details that you can alter.
The information you’ll find on the front of the pattern envelope includes:
- Pictures of the design and alternate versions
- The number of the pattern
- The sizes included in the pattern (always double check this. I’ve accidentally purchased the wrong size before)
- Sometimes it includes a rating of how easy the pattern is
The back of the pattern envelope
The back of the envelope is split into two halves, one in English and the other in French (or sometimes Spanish). The two sides are the same except that measurements are included in inches, feet, and yards on the English side, while they use centimeters and meters on the other side. Usually, the two sides are split down the middle horizontally, but occasionally, you’ll find one that’s stacked vertically instead.
1. Notions and types of fabric
The first two sections on the back of Simplicity patterns are the “Fabrics” and “Notions.” The Fabrics section gives you recommendations for the type of fabric that will work best with this pattern. It can also include information such as requiring fabrics that stretch.
The notions section lets you know what types of other supplies you need and exactly how much of them. For example, how much elastic you need, or how many buttons. This will be broken down by the different designs included in the pattern since they usually need different supplies to complete.
2. Size guide
The next section is the size guide. This is where you compare your own measurements to measurements on the guide to determine your size. This will include the bust, waist, and hips measurements, and sometimes the length of your back as well. This will help you get the correct amount of fabric.
The sizes of sewing patterns do not at all correlate with sizes in a department store. For example, if you’re a size 6 normally, you might be somewhere around a size 12 or 14 on the sewing pattern. You want to base the size you choose on your body measurements only.
What to expect from Simplicity sizes
Now that you know where to find the recommended size, I’ll also let you know those are not always completely accurate. I frequently find that I need to size down on Simplicity patterns after I check the bust/waist/hip measurements for myself (use a measuring tape and measure the actual pattern pieces).
This seems to be a fairly common practice among pattern brands. It could be because it’s a lot easier to adjust a garment to make it smaller after you’ve cut it than it is to make it bigger.
If you’re new to sewing, I recommend sticking with the recommended sizes on the pattern envelope. But once you’ve created a few handmade garments, try measuring the pattern and deciding for yourself if you want to size up or down.
3. How much fabric you need
This lets you know how much fabric to purchase for the size and pattern option you want to create. Usually, it will be separated into 45” and 60” fabric since most bolts of fabric will come in one of these two standard sizes.
It will also include the amount of contrast fabric you need if the design uses more than one color. As well as the amount of interfacing you will need.
4. Finished garment measurements
This section will tell you what to expect from the measurements of the finished garment you’re making. It will give you an idea of the amount of ease to expect from the clothes and can help you decide whether to go up or down a size, depending on how tight you like your clothing to be.
5. Stretch guide
On patterns that use stretch knit fabric, you will also see a stretch guide. This will let you know how far your fabric needs to be able to stretch for it to work with the pattern. To use it, hold the fabric up to the guide with your fingers at the edge of the gray section. Pull the fabric as far as it will go, and see if it stretches enough to reach the end of the stretch guide.
6. Line art for the back of the design
You will also see line art on the back of the pattern envelope. This will let you know what the back of the garments will look like since the front of the envelope usually only shows you the front of the clothing.
The Simplicity instruction sheet
The instruction booklet is where you’ll find more detailed information about how to cut the pattern, read the markings on the pieces, and how to put the whole thing together.
1. Line art and pattern pieces
All Simplicity patterns include line art of the garments you’re making. Usually, this will be more detailed than the line art you see on the pattern envelope. It will also show both the front and the back of the garment.
Next to this section, you’ll see the shape of each pattern piece labeled with numbers. Below these shapes, you see labels for all the pieces followed by with pattern designs you’ll use them for. For example, pattern piece 1 might be used for designs A and B, while piece 11 is used for designs C and D.
2. Pattern cutting layouts
Simplicity patterns also include recommended cutting layouts. This is meant to help you cut out your pattern pieces without using too much fabric. You’ll see cutting layouts for 60” fabric, and 45” fabric, and for interfacing and contrast colors as well.
3. Pattern cutting and construction assumptions
Simplicity also includes a section called general directions. It gives you tips for cutting out your fabric pieces and adding the sewing marks and notations. This section also includes a basic visual guide for how to trim seams, clip curves and give the seam allowance of the pattern pieces (it’s ⅝ inch with Simplicity unless otherwise noted on the pattern pieces).
4. Simplicity sewing instructions
The sewing directions are fairly standard. Overall, I find that Simplicity patterns are beginner-friendly because they tend to have thorough instructions with images that are easy to follow.
Simplicity cutting and markings guide
Simplicity uses fairly standard cutting and markings. Most of these will be the same for other pattern brands, such as McCalls and Vogue. However, there may be some slight differences, so I’ve included a guide of all the markings you might see on Simplicity pattern pieces.
The guide for some of the basic markings can be found in the general direction section of the pattern instructions.
Here is a quick guide for all the symbols you’ll find on Simplicity pattern pieces:
- Lines for pattern sizes (on a multi-size pattern)
- The numbered pattern piece (so you know which ones to trace and cut)
- Number of pieces to cut (lets you know the number of this piece to cut from your fabric)
- Hem allowance (this will let you know how big the hemline is supposed to be)
- Seam allowance (this is used when a specific seam has an allowance different than the standard ⅝ inch. You may see a special notation for this around the sleeves or neckline)
- Which style uses this pattern piece (do you need this for A, B, etc.)
- Waistline (lets you know where your natural waist should be. Lengthen or shorten the pattern if it’s not lining up with your actual waist)
- Center front and center back lines (a reference line to help you line up the center of your pattern pieces)
- Grainline of fabric (if there is no grainline, check to see if it’s cut on the fold. If so, the fold is your grainline)
- Cut on the fold (this is also the grainline for pieces that are cut on the fold)
- Notch marks for lining up pieces
- Fold line (for pieces that are folded in half, like waistbands)
- Stretch grain (for knit pattern pieces, it lets you know which say needs to stretch)
- Pleat lines and folding direction
- Buttonholes
- Shorten and lengthen lines (these are the same as any other pattern)
- Final hip, bust, and waist measurements (this lets you know what the final measurements should be)
