How to Read a Butterick Sewing Pattern
Butterick sewing patterns are very similar to McCalls patterns. Personally, I tend to like the style of Butterick patterns the most out of any of the big 5 brands (Simplicity, McCalls, Burda, Butterick, Vogue). These patterns tend to be a good mix between everyday wearable styles that also have a more upscale edge to them.
The pattern instructions and markings are fairly standard for Butterick patterns, but all brands have their own look and feel. If you’re just picking up your first pattern, I’ll walk you through the Butterick layout and instructions so that you know how to approach the construction of your garment and can easily get started.
Reading a Butterick pattern envelope
Learning how to read the Butterick sewing envelope can give you the necessary information about which size to make and how much fabric to buy so you can get started on your project. It tells you basic information about design features, fabric, sizing, and supplies you need to create the final garment. The envelope is not just a wrapping, so don’t throw it out. The information on the envelope is usually not repeated anywhere else on the pattern pieces or instruction booklet.
The front of the pattern envelope
The front of the pattern envelope is mostly just marketing. While it has some basic information, it’s mostly just pretty pictures to try to get you to want to buy the pattern. It usually only includes what each version of the final garment will look like and the size of the pattern pieces.
The information you’ll find on the front of the pattern envelope includes:
- Pictures of the main design and alternate versions. Usually, this is alterations in sleeves and length, but sometimes other design details are different too.
- The number of the pattern. This helps you organize and reference the pattern later.
- The sizes included in the pattern (always double check this since many patterns are divided into smaller and larger size categories)
The back of the pattern envelope
The back of the Butterick pattern envelope is where all of the important information is. It always looks like there’s a lot of information crammed onto the back of the pattern, but it’s really just the same thing twice. One is the instructions in English and the other in French.
The English part of the pattern envelope will give the fabric amounts and measurements in inches, feet, and yards. The other part will give these numbers in centimeters and meters.
1. Size guide
The size guide lets you know which size of the pattern to make so that it fits you. On Butterick patterns, this section is located on the flap of the pattern envelope. If you untuck it from the top, you’ll see the size recommendations based on your bust, waist, and hip measurements.
The sizes of sewing patterns do not correlate with sizes in a department store. You want to base the size you choose on your body measurements only. For example, if you’re a size 6 normally, you might be somewhere around a size 12 or 14 on the sewing pattern.
What to expect from Butterick sizes
I frequently find that I need to size down on Butterick patterns after I double-check the bust/waist/hip measurements (use a measuring tape and measure the actual pattern pieces). This seems to be a fairly common practice among pattern brands. It could be because it’s a lot easier to adjust a garment to make it smaller after you’ve cut it than it is to make it bigger.
If you’re new to sewing, I recommend sticking with the recommended sizes on the pattern envelope. But once you’ve created a few handmade garments, try measuring the pattern and deciding for yourself if you want to size up or down.
2. Description and types of fabric
The first section on the back of Butterick patterns are the description and suggested fabric. The fabrics section gives you recommendations for the type of fabric that will work best with this pattern. It can also include information such as requiring fabrics that stretch and will sometimes advise against using fabrics with diagonal prints.
3. How much fabric you need
The next section lets you know how much fabric you need for the size pattern you want to make. Remember to reference the size guide on the flap of the envelope for this. Usually, the fabric requirements will be separated into 45” and 60” widths since most bolts of fabric will come in one of these two standard sizes.
If it only gives the fabric yardage for 60” material, it may mean that the pattern pieces are too large to work with 45” fabric. If it’s for a knit’s-only pattern, it may only give one yardage because most knit fabrics come in the 60” width.
4. Interfacing and lining and notions
If the pattern uses interfacing or ling, you might see these in a separate section or they might be listed alongside the fabric section. This will let you know how much of each of these you need to complete the pattern (it’s usually an overestimate, but better to have too much than not enough).
The notions section lets you know what types of other supplies you need for the pattern. For example, how much elastic you need, or how many buttons. This will be broken down by the different views included in the pattern since they usually need different supplies to complete.
5. Finished garment measurements
Most Butterick pattern envelopes will include a finished garment measurement section. Unfortunately, even when it’s included, this usually only tells you the length of the piece of clothing. In most cases, it does not include the finished bust, waist, or hip measurements, making it difficult to know what kind of ease you can expect from the patterns until you look at the actual pattern pieces.
6. Stretch guide
On patterns that use stretchy fabric, you will also see a stretch guide along the side of the envelope. This will let you know how far your fabric needs to be able to stretch for it to work with the pattern. If the fabric doesn’t stretch as far as the guide indicates, there is a good chance your final garment will be too small. However, it’s perfectly okay if the fabric stretches more than indicated.
7. Line art for the design
The back of the envelope will also include more detailed line art for the front and back of each garment design. You will be able to see some details such as where zippers and pockets are included.
The Butterick instruction sheet
The instruction booklet is where you’ll find more detailed information about how to cut and sew the pattern. The instruction sheet for Butterick patterns is very similar to Vogue patterns. If you’ve worked with one, it’s usually pretty easy to switch to the other.
1. Line art and pattern pieces
The two sections on the left-hand side of the instructions show the line art of the final garments and the shape of the pieces that are included with the pattern. Each of these pieces is numbered and labeled, and it also lets you know which garment style uses each pattern piece. For example, pattern piece 1 might be used for designs A and B, while piece 11 is used for designs C and D.
2. Pattern cutting layouts
Vogue patterns also include recommended cutting layouts to guide you through cutting out your pattern pieces without using too much fabric. This section gives you basic instructions along with a visual guide to help you arrange your pattern pieces on your fabric. You’ll see cutting layouts for 60” fabric, and 45” fabric, and for interfacing and contrast colors as well.
2. Sewing information and glossary
Just before the instructions begin, you’ll also have sections with basic sewing instructions and terms that will be referred to in the pattern directions. If you come across a word with all capital letters, this means it has been defined for you in the glossary so you can check to see what it means.
4. Butterick sewing instructions
The next part is the sewing instructions for constructing your piece of clothing. I’ve found that Butterick patterns are generally easy to follow. The pictures are pretty clear, and they don’t tend to skip any steps (such as basting, staystitching, pressing seams, etc.).
Butterick cutting and markings guide
Butterick uses fairly standard markings on its pattern pieces. Most of these will be the same for other pattern brands, such as McCalls and Simplicity. However, there may be some slight differences, so I’ve included a guide of all the markings you might see on Butterick pattern pieces.
The guide for some of the basic markings can be found in the general direction section of the pattern instructions.
Here is a quick guide for all the symbols you’ll find on Butterick pattern pieces:
- Lines for pattern sizes (on a multi-size pattern)
- The numbered pattern piece (so you know which ones to trace and cut)
- Number of pieces to cut (lets you know the number of this piece to cut from your fabric)
- Hem allowance (this will let you know how big the hemline is supposed to be)
- Waistline (lets you know where your natural waist should be. Lengthen or shorten the pattern if it’s not lining up with your actual waist)
- Center front and center back lines (a reference line to help you line up the center of your pattern pieces)
- Cut on the fold (this is also the grainline for pieces that are cut on the fold)
- Notch marks for lining up pieces
- Symbols (lets you know where the seams need to meet up or are referenced in the instructions)
- Stitch line (if there is shirring or stitching in the center of a pattern piece, not for seam allowance stitch line)
- Sleeve easing notations (you should ease the sleeve head between these points)
- Button marks and buttonholes
- Shorten and lengthen lines (these are the same as any other pattern)
- Final hip, bust, and waist measurements (this lets you know what the final measurements should be)
- Target line for bustline, waistline, hips (this lets you know where the bust, waist, and hip measurements are)
- Grainline of fabric (if there is no grainline, check to see if it’s cut on the fold. If so, the fold is your grainline)
