Sewing 101: How to Read Sewing Patterns
If you are a beginner at sewing and pick up a sewing pattern, you will probably find yourself quickly becoming overwhelmed. This is because most sewing patterns are not meant to be learn-to-sew tools and instead assume that the person looking at them has a basic understanding of how constructing garments works.
That means that sewing patterns can look pretty confusing right off the bat. My goal with this article is to go over each part of the pattern instructions so that you know what they mean and how to interpret the symbols and terminology. By the end, I hope you have the confidence you need to get started on that first sewing project.
As a note: I’ll go over the basic elements that you’ll find on the outside of a sewing pattern envelope in this post, but check out my other post for a more in-depth analysis of reading the envelope and choosing a sewing pattern.
Step 1: Choosing a size
When you pick up a sewing pattern envelope, the first place you want to check is the pattern size guide. This can be found towards the top of that wall of text, or it will be on the flap of the envelope (McCalls, Vogue, and Butterick patterns usually put it on the flap).
On this chart, you’ll see the sizes of the garment along the top with the bust, waist, and hips measurements listed in the rows underneath. You will want to measure yourself around your bust, the smallest part of your waist, and the fullest part of your hips (this may actually be the fullest part of your buttocks, rather than your hips, but wherever the measurement is largest).
It’s common for body measurements to fall into different sizes. If this is your first time using a sewing pattern, use the largest size that your measurements fit into, rounding up to the nearest size. Alternatively, you can use the most fitted part of the garment you’re making. For example, if you’re making an A-line skirt where the only fitted part is the waistband, you would use your waist measurement.
There are more exact ways to choose the right size for your body, but if you’re a beginner sewist go based on the chart provided. If you’re interested, you can read more about other methods to find the right pattern size.
When choosing your pattern size, you always want to base it on your measurements. Sewing pattern sizes do not match up with commercial clothing sizes, so never choose your size based on what you look for in clothing retail stores. Sizing is also not consistent across all sewing pattern brands, so don’t assume that you’ll be a size 12 in McCalls just because that’s what fits in Simplicity patterns.
Step 2: Choosing your fabric
The next step is to choose what kind of fabric to get and how much of it you need. Different types and styles of garments will need different kinds of fabric to look and act like they are supposed to. To help you choose the right material, sewing patterns will include a suggested fabric section on the back of the envelope (usually this part will be right at the top of that big wall of text).
If you’re new to sewing, stick to the recommendations you see on the back of the envelope. However, once you have a better understanding of fabric weight and drape, you can play around a little bit and use similar types of fabric even if they aren’t explicitly mentioned.
How much fabric to get?
Fabric is generally sold by the yard. When you buy it, you need to know how many yards to purchase so that you will have enough to complete your pattern. Since this is such an important measurement, the back of the pattern envelope has this information for you.
Remember how you chose your size in step 1? You’re going to use that to figure out how much fabric you need. Start by looking at the column of the chart for your chosen size. Then scan down until you get to the style you want to make (since most patterns include more than one).
For example, say you are size 12 and want to make the style B in the pattern. Scan down the column and you’ll see that there are two numbers. These let you know how much fabric you need in yards (for the English side of the pattern, the French or Spanish side is in meters).
So why are there two numbers here? Standard bolts of fabric are generally sold in two sizes, 45-inches and 60-inches (115cm or 150cm). You will need more yards of fabric if you get something that is shorter. So when you purchase your fabric, always check the width and get the amount of fabric you need according to that.
(Note: Sometimes the fabric will be approximately 45 or 60 inches, not exactly. It’s common to see 43-inch fabric or 57-inches. That’s still fine as long as it’s approximately 45 or 60-inches)
Step 3: Line art and pattern pieces
Now it’s time to open up your pattern and take a look at the little instruction sheet or booklet that’s included. This gives you information about which pattern pieces you need to cut out, cutting layouts, the key for symbols you’ll see, and the instructions for constructing your garment.
The first section of the instructions includes the detailed line art of what the finished garments will look like and an overview of the individual pattern pieces that you’ll need to cut out and sew together. Each piece is labeled, and you’ll see a list including which pattern pieces are needed for each style.
Make a note of which pieces you need. These pieces will all be on the tissue paper that is folded up into the pattern envelope. Unfold that and cut or trace the necessary pattern pieces. Make sure to pay attention to which size you need, since most sewing patterns come with multiple nested sizes.
If you’re tracing the pattern, make sure to trace all of the symbols and markings you see on the pattern pieces. You’ll also want to label them so you don’t get the pieces mixed up and copy information like how many pieces to cut and which pieces need interfacing.
Reading the tissue pattern pieces
When copying and reading your pattern pieces, there are a lot of notations and symbols used that are important to the sewing process. Some of them are easy to understand, you just need to make sure you take note of them. Others might be confusing if you’ve never sewn with a pattern before.
These are some of the basic notations you should copy down on you’re pattern pieces:
- The number and label of each pattern piece: Always copy the number and label of each pattern piece so you don’t get them mixed up
- How many pieces to cut: Do you cut 2? Cut 1 on the fold? Cut 7? Write it down because this information is not written down on the instruction sheet.
- Which pieces need interfacing: facings, waistbands, and collars often need interfacing. This will be noted next to the number of each piece you need to cut.
- Hem allowances: At the bottom of each piece, it will let you know how big of a hem is accounted for in the design. This is often different from the standard seam allowance.
- Seam allowances if they differ from the main pattern: Make a note if the seam allowance next to the neckline or other area is different than the standard used for the rest of the pattern.
These are some of the basic markings to make sure you copy and understand:
- Grainline: This is the arrow that goes the length of the pattern piece. It should always be exactly parallel to the lengthwise side of your fabric.
- Cutting on the fold: This lets you know this pattern piece needs to be cut with this edge on the fold of the fabric.
- Notches: These are the little triangles that help you line up two pieces that need to be sewn together.
- Darts: These are the triangle or tapered marks that appear generally around the bustline and waist of clothing.
- Pocket markings: If your pattern has pockets, the corners will be noted with little circles to let you know where the pocket should be placed.
- Circle, square, or triangle symbols: These are referred to in the pattern instructions to help make them clearer and easier to follow.
For more thorough explanations of all the pattern markings and notations you’ll see, check out my article which includes pictures that you can reference if you’re confused about anything.
Step 4: Understanding cutting layouts
The next section on the instruction sheet is the cutting layout. This part is meant to help you organize your fabric and cut it out without using too much fabric. The area will give you cutting layouts for 45-inch and 60-inch fabric for all the design styles included in the pattern packet.
When you look at the cutting layout diagrams, you’ll notice that most patterns have you cut out the pattern pieces on your fabric folded in half lengthwise, since most pattern pieces are cut in multiples of two. Some need to be cut on the folded side (the pattern pieces will be labeled), and some do not.
Generally, you don’t have to follow the cutting layouts exactly, but they are good guidelines if you’re not quite sure how everything will fit onto your length of fabric.
Step 5: Cutting notes and sewing assumptions
The next section on the pattern instruction sheet will include the basic information that you want to know before cutting your fabric and starting to construct your handmade garment. The specific information you find will be slightly different depending on the brand of sewing pattern you’re using.
Typically, in these sections you will find:
- A key to symbols used on the pattern pieces and in the instructions
- Basic instructions for how to use the shorten and lengthen lines on pattern pieces
- Tips for how to read the pattern-cutting layout
- Diagrams for how to clip curves and corners
- A basic glossary for terms that are used in the sewing directions (these terms will be bolded or italicized when used)
- And most importantly, the seam allowance that’s included (usually this is ⅝-inch)
What is a seam allowance?
The seam allowance is the amount of buffer space between the edge of the fabric and where you sew the pieces together. You can’t sew directly on the edge of the fabric, there always needs to be at least a little extra space along the edges. So we purposefully add a consistent amount of seam allowance around the edges so that we will sew the garments together in the right spot. Modern commercial patterns will do this for us, so we just need to check how much space they already added.
Always double-check your pattern instructions to see what the seam allowance is for your pattern. For most commercial patterns, it’s ⅝”, but some indie patterns use ½” and some vintage patterns don’t include a seam allowance at all. You’ll have to draw it in for yourself before cutting the fabric.
You also want to check your individual pattern pieces around the neckline, armholes, and waistband. Sometimes these thin areas will have ⅜” seam allowance written directly on the pattern piece. In these cases, it will override the general ⅝” on the specific seams where it’s noted.
Step 6: Sewing directions
It’s always a good idea to look through your sewing pattern directions before starting to cut or sew anything. The first thing you need to look for is which steps you need to follow for the design you are making.
Most patterns will include at least two or three designs in one envelope. They will have similar construction methods, but every once in a while, they will do something different. Throughout the pattern directions, you’ll see “view A” or “view B, C” or something similar. This tells you which steps to follow based on which variation of the design you are making. You may want to go through and highlight the steps that pertain to your chosen design if you keep getting confused while looking through directions.
Otherwise, it’s a matter of following the steps until you’ve finished your piece of clothing. Most modern patterns do a pretty good job of showing what needs to be done with pictures.
I’ve created a basic guide that explains common steps that you’ll find in pattern directions if you are confused.
However, all patterns are unique and you might need to ask a real person if you’re confused. Consider joining an online sewing group or forum and taking a picture of the step if you can’t figure out what you’re supposed to do.
