Fabric 101: Bottom Weight 

Bottom weight fabric refers to textiles with a relatively heavy weight per square yard compared to other garment fabrics. As you might have guessed, this category of fabric is typically used in pants, shorts, jeans, structured skirts, and other garments meant to cover your legs. 

However, the term bottomweight can also cover fabrics that are ideal for heavy duty workwear or for outerwear coats and jackets. It doesn’t just have to refer to pants. Other common characteristics of the fabric category include opacity and durability. When something is labeled as a bottom weight fabric, you can expect it to be quite sturdy and completely opaque to protect your modesty when wearing garments made from the material.

Fabric	Bottom Weight
Stretch?	Typically no stretch, however some heavyweight fleece fabrics can have a minimal amount of stretch
Weight?	Heavyweight fabric
Stiff or flowy drape?	Highly structured drape
Typical fiber content?	Varies, but cotton is commonly used
Opaque or sheer?	Opaque fabric
Cool or warm weather?	Better for cold-weather garment
What to make?	Heavy duty pants, workwear, and outdoor clothing. It can also be used for non-garment projects like bags hats, etc.
What needle to use?	Use heavy duty or denim needles

What kind of fabric is bottom weight?

Rather than being a specific type of fabric, bottom weight is more of an umbrella term describing thickness and use rather than material composition. These fabrics are heavyweight and durable, yet still flexible enough for crafting garments (fabric that is too stiff and heavyweight is used for upholstery, tent-making, or other heavy-duty projects, and is not considered bottom weight material). 

When you’re searching for fabrics to create sturdy items like jeans or jackets, bottom-weight textiles are what you’re looking for. Consider popular choices like denim and thick canvas—these materials exemplify the bottom-weight category. They are called ‘bottom weight’ since they are frequently utilized for constructing resilient pants or workwear that need to withstand more wear and tear than lighter fabrics.

The fiber of bottom weight fabrics can also vary. While cotton (or a cotton blend) is the most common, Be prepared to find a range of fibers, including wool, polyester, and many other fibers.

While the term ‘bottom weight’ might suggest limitation to pants, these fabrics are also excellent for other types of heavy-duty apparel (such as coats and outerwear), or other types of projects (such as hats and bags).

Properties of bottom weight fabric

When you come across bottom weight fabric, you’re dealing with a material that typically offers more durability compared to lighter fabrics. This kind of fabric lends itself well to clothing items that require a robust nature. Here’s a breakdown of its key properties:

• Texture: Bottom weight fabrics often have a denser weave. This often gives the fabric a courser texture, but it can vary depending on the type of fabric.
• Weight: As the name suggests, these fabrics are considered heavy weight fabrics. However, they are not so heavy that they would be too rigid to wear comfortably.
• Drape: The heavier weight also means that bottom weight fabric will have a more structured and stiff drape, and will not be suitable for any designs that need a flowy fabric.
• Fiber: Cotton and cotton blends are the most common fibers used for bottom weight fabric, but pretty much any type of fiber can be used.
• Sheen: Generally, these fabrics have a matte finish, but the sheen can vary if the fabric has been treated or blended with other materials.
• Fraying: Due to the tighter weave, fraying is less of an issue with bottom weight fabric. However, all woven fabrics will fray a little.
• Wrinkling: Bottom weight fabrics tend to resist wrinkling, which is advantageous for everyday wear and maintenance.
• Breathable: While heavier, many bottom weight fabrics still offer some breathability, especially if they are made with natural fibers, such as cotton.

What to know before sewing with bottom weight

Before you start sewing with bottom weight fabric for the first time, familiarize yourself with some of the best practices for sewing with thicker fabrics. Remember that these are just basic recommendations. All sewing machines are different and you will need to test your setting and tweak them using some scraps of fabric before starting to sew your final garment.

Speaking of sewing machines, it’s also important to keep in mind that not all machines for home sewers can handle heavy bottom weight fabrics. While most will be able to handle a lighter denim or twill fabric for a basic pair of pants, you may need an industrial machine to be able to sew a heavy duty pair of jeans.

Needle Selection	Use a heavy duty needle (size 100 or more), or a jeans needle
Thread choice	All purpose thread can work, but you might want to switch to a heavy duty thread if your machine allows it.
Stitch length	Typically a longer stitch length (3 – 3.5) is better to accommodate the thickness of the material
Presser foot Pressure	If your machine allows, you may want to reduce the pressure on the pressure foot to make it easier for the thick fabric to slide through
Seam finishes	Consider using felled seams wherever possible to create more durable seams.
Ironing	You may need to use more pressure and steam when pressing seams to allow the heat and moisture to steep through all layers of fabric.

How to care for bottom weight fabric

Caring for bottom weight fabric is generally straightforward. This durable category of fabric can usually withstand normal washing machine and drying cycles, especially if it’s made from cotton. However, proper maintenance will vary depending on the fiber and weave used. (for example, wool bottom weight materials requires more specialized care to prevent shrinkage and pilling).

In general, you can use whatever washing machine settings you want. I will typically use cold water and a normal machine cycle. You can also use a heavy duty cycle if your garments call for it. Most bottom weight fabric can also be machine dried without a problem. Just pay attention if your fabric is a wool or rayon (viscose) blend, since these may shrink.

Since bottom weight fabrics are usually somewhat wrinkle resistant, you can store them folded in a wardrobe in most cases. If they’ve been stored for a long time, they may still require a quick iron or steam before wearing them.