What is Deadstock Fabric? Is it Sustainable for Sewing?

Deadstock fabric refers to unused or surplus fabric that is no longer required by manufacturers or retailers within the fashion industry. It includes leftover or excess materials as well as scraps from production runs, discontinued fabrics, or unused inventory.

Deadstock fabric is typically brand new, of high quality, and limited in quantity. It presents a sustainable option for reducing textile waste and minimizing the environmental impact of fabric production. Fashion brands and designers are increasingly embracing deadstock fabric as a means of creating distinctive and eco-friendly clothing and accessories.

That being said, the amount of deadstock that’s created in the fashion industry is a real problem that needs to be addressed. Ideally, fashion brands would use all of the fabric ordered with very few scraps and bolts left over so there would be very little deadstock left. 

Where we are today, using deadstock is a way to reduce overall fabric waste. However, the hope is that in the future there will be less deadstock overall because the fashion industry becomes more efficient with fabric and avoids the rampant overproduction that is the norm today.

Why deadstock is considered sustainable

While deadstock is not perfect, it’s still largely considered a sustainable option compared to buying completely new fabric, especially for beginning fashion designers who cannot afford the most sustainable types of fabric yet.

While deadstock alone may not completely solve the sustainability challenges in the fashion industry, it is a step in the right direction. It encourages the reduction of waste, embraces resourcefulness, and supports a more responsible and mindful approach to fashion production and consumption.

• Prevents surplus materials from ending up in landfills or incinerators: Instead of ending up in landfills or being incinerated, using deadstock gives it new life through repurposing, donations, or recycling. 
• Minimizes the need for new fabric production:  Utilizing deadstock reduces the demand for new resources, including raw materials, energy, and water. By repurposing or upcycling existing inventory, we can minimize the environmental impact associated with the extraction, production, and transportation of new materials
• Saves water, chemicals, and energy associated with fabric manufacturing: Deadstock materials have already undergone the production process, meaning that using them eliminates the emissions associated with producing new textiles.
• Supports a circular economy and responsible consumption: By repurposing deadstock, we embrace the principle of a circular economy, where resources are kept in use for as long as possible. This shifts away from the traditional linear model of “take-make-dispose” and promotes a more sustainable and regenerative system.

The problem with deadstock

However, this does not mean that every business or brand using deadstock gets a free pass for sustainability. Not only is the very existence of deadstock based on overproduction within the fashion industry, but there is also generally little concern for the origin of the deadstock fabric (including environmental sustainability, and ethics around worker safety and fair pay).

Some of the problems with deadstock fabric include:

• Overproduction: Deadstock often arises from excessive production and inventory miscalculations. This overproduction contributes to resource depletion, excess waste, and increased carbon emissions. Addressing the root causes of overproduction is necessary to achieving true sustainability.
• Lack of transparency: The origins and production methods of deadstock fabric are not usually fully traceable. This can make it challenging to ensure that the fabric has been produced ethically, without exploitative labor practices or negative environmental impacts.
• Brand greenwashing: Large businesses and brands that could focus on reducing overproduction or sourcing more sustainable materials may instead release a line of clothing with deadstock fabric, making them appear more environmentally friendly than they really are.
• Limited availability: Deadstock materials are by nature limited in quantity and variety. While utilizing deadstock is a sustainable practice, it may not always meet the demands of a brand or consumer base, leading to the potential for new materials to be sourced, further perpetuating the cycle of resource extraction.
• Temporary solutions: While repurposing deadstock can delay the disposal of materials, it is a temporary solution that does not address the fundamental issue of overproduction and waste generation in the fashion industry. A holistic approach is needed, including sustainable design, material sourcing, and responsible consumption.

These sustainability problems highlight the need for a comprehensive shift towards circularity, responsible production practices, and transparent supply chains in the fashion industry. Deadstock serves as a starting point, but broader systemic changes are necessary to address the full spectrum of sustainability challenges.

When deadstock is not real

The other problem with deadstock fabric is that sometimes it’s not real and it’s very difficult to know the difference. Melanie DiSalvo over at Virtue and Vice wrote an excellent article about how deadstock is not always true deadstock.

What do I mean by this? Melanie explains that sometimes fabric will be purposely overproduced because they know it can be sold as if it were deadstock. It’s cheaper for the manufacturing company to produce an excess of an in-demand fabric and sell it at a slight discount. This is really considered overstock fabric, but it’s sold as deadstock.

Now, this is by no means exemplary of all types of deadstock. A lot of it is fabric that has imperfections, is the last few yards on a bolt, or was rejected due to an inconsistent dye job. The problem is that it’s almost impossible to spot the difference between them.

As a home sewist, this is not as much of an issue since I’m not going to be getting deadstock fabric straight from the manufacturer. However, it is something to keep in mind when buying clothing whose primary claim to sustainability is that it uses deadstock fabric.

The goal is for deadstock to eventually become obsolete

While using deadstock fabric seems like a sustainable option (and it can be in today’s industry), it’s not all sunshine and roses. The immense amount of deadstock that gets produced represents a tremendous waste of resources, including raw materials, energy, and labor in the fashion industry as a whole. While it’s good that we can use deadstock to reduce waste and prevent it from going straight to a landfill, it would be better to produce less waste to begin with. 

The ultimate goal is to eliminate the accumulation of deadstock by adopting sustainable practices such as improving production planning, embracing circular economy models, and fostering a shift towards conscious consumerism. By doing so, we would see less deadstock but it would also reduce the environmental footprint of the fashion industry and work towards a more efficient and waste-free future.

Is it ethical to use deadstock as a home sewist?

In general, the deadstock that’s going to be available to individual home sewists is going to be real deadstock. This is the kind that is limited in supply, so you can get it in small enough quantities for it to make sense on an individual level. 

As the industry currently stands, it’s generally more sustainable for home sewists to buy deadstock fabric than new fabrics from a hobby supply store. There is the case for buying new fabric that is made from sustainable materials, but considering it can be quite expensive for small-time hobby sewists, deadstock is an excellent, affordable option.

Places where I purchase deadstock

I am in the US, so these are all US and Canadian-based organizations. Check out my article on buying fabric ethically for more places to purchase fabric online.

• Fabscrap: Fabscrap is a nonprofit organization that collects, repurposes, and recycles textile waste from the fashion industry to promote sustainability and reduce environmental impact.
• A Thrifty notion: A Thrifty Notion is a thrift store and online business that offers a wide range of secondhand sewing supplies, fabrics, and notions, promoting sustainable and affordable options for home sewists.
• FabCycle: FabCycle is a sustainable textile recycling company that partners with local Canadian businesses to collect and repurpose their post-industrial waste into new materials and redistribute small lengths of deadstock fabric.
• Swanson Fabric: Swanson Fabric collects destash fabric and materials selling everything for $5 per yard regardless of the fiber or quality of material. It’s one of the cheapest ways to find second-hand fabric, but it’s also luck of the draw when it comes to the quality of the fabric you get.
• Core Fabrics: Core Fabrics is a sustainable textile supplier that focuses on providing eco-friendly and ethically produced fabrics to promote responsible fashion choices.

Note: I am not affiliated with any of these companies, I just legitimately like these businesses and use them to source fabric for my home sewing whenever possible.