10 Tips for Sewing With Sheer Fabric

Working with sheer fabrics can be a bit challenging because you can see everything, both the inside and the outside of the fabric. There is no hiding messy seams, mismatched facings, or interfacings when working with sheer fabric.

In addition, most sheer fabric is fairly lightweight, this means that it generally needs more delicate handling than other types of fabric to prevent it from snagging, ripping, and fraying during the sewing process.

I always say that the best way to learn how to do something is to do it. And it’s no different here. If you want to learn how to sew with sheer fabric, go out and buy some and figure out how to use them. I hope that these tips will help you get started and give you the confidence you need to start using more difficult types of materials in your sewing journey.

1. Use neat seam finishes

Since the inner seams of the fabric will be visible when working with sheer fabrics, you want to make those seams finishes as neat as possible. While you can still use an overlock or overcast finish, it often looks way better if you use a seam finish that encloses the edge of the fabric.

For most sheer fabrics, the best option is going to be French seams. This is a seam finish where for each seam you sew the fabric pieces with the wrong sides together with a small seam allowance. Then you flip the pieces so they are right sides together and sew your normal seam. The end result is that the edges of the fabric are encased between those two seamlines, making a really neat and put-together finish.

2. Self-stabilize or use organza as interfacing (in some cases featherweight interfacing will work)

Facings, collars, waistbands, cuffs, buttonholes, zippers, and many other parts of sewing patterns will need to be stabilized for the garment to fit and drape properly. The problem is that standard interfacing will be visible through the sheer fabric.

To get around this, we need to be a little more resourceful when it comes to stabilizing sheer fabric. There are a few options that you can choose from depending on the type of fabric you are working with and the level of opacity.

1. Self-stabilize the fabric by using a double layer of fabric. For example, if your pattern has wrist cuffs, you would cut an extra set of the cuffs and baste the two layers together. Then you would continue sewing using the double layer of fabric.
2. Use organza fabric as a stabilizer (in a matching color). Organza is sheer fabric that is also quite crisp and structured. If you use organza in a color that matches your fabric, it will give your fabric structure without adding too much opacity or looking out of place. 
3. Use a semi-sheer feather weight interfacing. If your fabric is not fully sheer, but more in the semi-sheer category, you can usually get away with using feather weight interfacing. Make sure to use white for lighter colored semi-sheer fabric, and black for darker-colored semi sheer fabric.

Learn more about how to stabilize sheer fabrics

3. Always use a matching thread

Your thread choice matters a lot more when working with sheer fabrics. Not only will you see it in the topstitching, but you’ll also see the thread all throughout the seams. I have gotten in the habit of using thread that’s ‘close enough’ when sewing, but for sheer material, you really want to use as close a match as possible or else the final result will look a little off.

4. Consider using a straight stitch plate

Since sheer fabrics also tend to be lightweight and delicate, using a straight stitch plate can significantly improve your sewing experience. This specialized plate helps prevent the fabric from getting sucked down into the needle plate (when the machine tries to ‘eat’ the fabric).

The straight stitch plate has a smaller hole that helps you get cleaner and more precise stitches, especially if you are trying to stitch close to the edge of the fabric. It reduces the chances of fabric snags and puckering while sewing.

A straight stitch plate is not necessary for all types of sheer fabric, but if your struggling with getting clean stitches without munching or scrunching the fabric, I highly recommend looking into it. (The straight stitch plate you use will need to be machine specific since the plates are not interchangeable between sewing machine brands)

5. Use fine thread (2-ply thread aka embroidery thread)

When sewing with sheer fabric, using fine thread can help to reduce the overall bulk in seams. Most standard sewing thread is 3-ply, so using 2-ply thread makes the seamlines a little more subtle. (2-ply thread is also called embroidery thread)

2-ply embroidery thread is thin yet still strong, making it ideal for detailed work and ensuring the fabric’s integrity. It’s especially useful with button holes and areas where there is going to be a lot of thread in one spot.

6. Use extra sharp needles (to avoid pinholes)

With most sheer fabrics, you also want to use extra sharp needles and pins. Since most of these fabrics are thin and delicate, they are also more prone to damage and puncture holes. An extra sharp needle can help you get a smoother seamline without damaging the fabric.

This could mean a smaller universal needle (size 60 or 70), but you also may need to switch to a microtex needle that is specifically designed to work with delicate fabrics.

Likewise, I recommend using fine-point pins when using sheer fabrics. These are less likely to leave pinhole marks after they are removed from the fabric. Even with these sharper pins, I recommend trying to place the pins within the seam allowance so there is less risk of visible holes on the end garment.

7. Make markings with an erasable markers or with tailors tacks

Sheer fabrics will also show any pattern markings easily. You want to be absolutely sure that your marks will come off before using them because even if they are used on the reverse side of the fabric, they will still be visible. 

If you are using an air erase or water erase pen, test them on a scrap of fabric first and make sure they will come out easily. Do the same with any chalk tools you have. Personally, I try to avoid using chalk with sheer fabrics because I’ve had trouble fully washing out chalk on some fabrics I’ve used in the past.

The other option you can use is something called a tailor’s tack. This is where it make your markings with little loops of thread, meaning they can easily be removed later on. This is most useful for things like marking notches or marking where the center of a seam should line up.

8. Avoid backstitching whenever possible (instead, manually tie off seams)

Backstitching on sheer fabrics can create visible bulk and distort the delicate material. Instead, make sure you start sewing with long thread tails. Hold the tails when you start the seam so that they don’t tangle at the start of the seamline. Make sure to leave thread tails at the end of the seam as well, and don’t use the thread trimmer.

Once you’ve sewn the seam, manually tie off the tails and the start and end of the seams. Then trim the excess tails. This method keeps from adding extra bulk to the seams and it prevents the machine from munching on the edges of the fabric.

9. Whenever possible avoid using facings, especially for front pieces

Facings can be kind of a pain when working with sheer fabrics because they will be visible through the fabric. However, you still need to finish the edges of the fabric to prevent fraying in the future. 

While sometimes you have no choice but to make the facings look as neat as possible, sometimes you can replace them with an alternate method. Depending on the pattern you’re working with, consider replacing the facing with one of these:

1. Hem the edges: If the edge is not too curved, A narrow hem can create a cleaner, less obtrusive look. 
2. Bias tape: Apply bias tape to finish the edges. It provides a neat, professional finish without adding too much extra bulk. You can make your own bias tape from the same fabric for a seamless look or use store-bought bias tape. Most facings can be replaced with a bias tape finish.
3. Self-line the front: Self-lining involves using a double layer of the same fabric to line the piece. This method maintains the fabric’s sheer quality while offering additional structure and finishing outer edges. 

10. Consider lining with an opaque fabric

When working with sheer fabrics, consider adding an opaque lining for better coverage. This will, of course, depend on the finished look you want to achieve and will not be appropriate for all projects.

Lining improves the garment’s structure and it can help conceal all those visible seams and finishes so you don’t need to worry as much about what the inside of the garment looks like. You can use a complementary or contrasting color for visual impact, depending on the desired effect

You may even consider underlining by basting the lining to the fabric pieces before sewing them together. With this method, both layers are treated as one.