Understanding Drape of Fabric
The drape of a fabric is simply how it looks when it hangs. Some fabrics have a beautiful, almost fluid drape, while others are quite stiff and crisp. Being able to understand and evaluate the drape of a fabric is probably one of the most important skills you’ll learn as you begin your garment-making journey.
And I’m really not joking here. You can have perfect sewing skills creating that new beautiful sundress, but if you choose a fabric that’s too structured and stiff, you’ll still look like you’re wearing a sack. Similarly, if you try to make a sturdy pair of pants with a flowy fabric, your pants won’t work the way they were intended to. You will need to learn how to pick the right fabric for the right project based on the drape and structure of the material.
That being said, this is not a skill you are going to learn overnight. You will make mistakes and choose the wrong fabric sometimes, and that’s okay! Over time, your judgment will get better and you’ll be able to more accurately imagine how your fabric will look within different types of garments.
Hopefully this quick introduction to fabric drape will help you get started choosing the right fabric. I’ve also added a little chart at the end with the typical drape you can expect from different types of fabric (which will hopefully help when buying fabric online).
What is the drape of a fabric?
The drape of a fabric describes how it hangs when suspended. Fabrics that have a flowy drape (also described as drapey) tend to be airy and have a lot of movement when hanging. Imagine the kind of skirt you love to twirl around in—that’s a garment making full use of a fabric’s drape.
- Flowy fabrics are often used for evening wear, summer dresses, lightweight shawls and scarves, and flowing skirts and blouses
In contrast, fabrics with less drape are more structured and sturdy. These materials are excellent for crafting pants, more structured shirts, bodices, and many non-garment items like upholstery, tote bags, or even hats. They maintain their shape and provide a crisp, tailored look.
- Structured fabrics are typically used for outerwear coats and jackets, pants and overalls, suits and business attire, and more tailored and fitted designs.
The problem is that not all materials are going to fit neatly into these categories. There are many fabrics that are kind of in the middle. These materials are generally described as having a moderate drape. They aren’t especially flowy, but they don’t completely hold their shape either. Think of fabric you might use for a button-up shirt or even a nice dress that doesn’t have the ‘twirl’ factor.
- Moderate drape fabrics are often used for shirting, such as button-up shirts, tailored-yet-flexible dresses and bodices, lightweight pants and shorts, and a lot of casual clothing.
Your choice between flowy or structured fabric should align with the function and desired aesthetic of the garment. Fabrics that drape contribute to a more fluid style, which can accentuate curves and be used in more elegant designs. In contrast, structured fabrics offer durability and a defined silhouette.
How to know what fabric to buy based on the drape
If it’s at all possible, the best thing to do when learning about drape is to go to a fabric shop, unwrap a section of the fabric and look at it to see what kind of drape it has. However, I understand it’s not always possible to go in person (I don’t have a car and that means I have to buy most of my fabric online too!). You also might be totally overwhelmed stepping into a fabric shop for the first time, and don’t even know where to start looking.
These are some of the general characteristics that will affect the drape of the fabric. Note: these are general rules and there are always exceptions with fabric. Always look at any reference images (some online fabric retailers even have reference videos now) and details in the fabric description to help you make the right choices.
- How weave affects drape: The weave of the fabric is the main driver of how flowy it will be. For example, chiffon fabric is woven together in a way that gives it a fluid and airy drape, while the weave of canvas fabric makes it quite structured. See the chart below to help you determine the expected drape of specific types of fabric.
- How weight affects drape: In most cases, the heavier the weight of the fabric, the more structured and stiff the drape will be. There are exceptions to this (especially with some lightweight, crisp silk fabrics), but this is the general trend you will see with fabric.
- How fiber affects drape: Some fibers are also known for giving different types of drape. For example, cotton fabric typically have a more structured drape, while rayon fabrics are known for being quite flowy. This is true even for fabrics of the same weave. A twill cotton fabric will be significantly more structured than a twill rayon.
- Linen and rayon tend to be on the less structured side, while cotton and wool tend to be more structured. Silk can be either crisp and structured or fluid-like depending on the weave, while polyester is kind of a wild card and can be created to have flowy or structured attributes.
| Fabric | Flowy | Moderate | Structured |
| Broadcloth | X | ||
| Canvas | X | ||
| Chambray | X | ||
| Charmeuse | X | ||
| Chiffon | X | ||
| Chintz | X | ||
| Corduroy | X | ||
| Crepe | X | ||
| Denim | X | ||
| Duck | X | ||
| Flannel | X | ||
| Fleece | X | ||
| Gauze | X | ||
| Georgette | X | ||
| Interlock | X | ||
| Jersey | X | ||
| Lawn | X | ||
| Linen | X | ||
| Muslin | X | ||
| Organza | X | ||
| Ponte | X | ||
| Poplin | X | ||
| Rayon/Viscose | X | ||
| Sateen | X | ||
| Satin | X | ||
| Seersucker | X | ||
| Shantung | X | ||
| Taffeta | X | ||
| Twill | X | ||
| Velvet | X | ||
| Voile | X |
