Fabric 101: Chiffon 

Chiffon is most well known for being an extremely lightweight and sheer fabric that also has the most lovely, flowing drape. Historically, this was a silk material that was worn as a layer in gowns as an indicator of wealth because of how expensive the material was. Even with synthetic versions becoming common in the mid-20th century, the fabric is still seen as beautiful and luxurious and is commonly found in bridal apparel.

Chiffon is an extremely delicate fabric that is prone to puckering, ripping, and runs. It also frays from raw edges very easily (so make sure you use a wide seam allowance when sewing). Due to its delicate nature, chiffon is most often used in special event clothing, especially for weddings. For example, the outer layer of almost all bridesmaid’s dresses is made from chiffon fabric.

Fabric	Chiffon
Texture?	Somewhat rough (but not scratchy), some varieties have a pebbled surface texture
Stretch?	Usually non-stretch, but the fabric has some give
Heavy or light?	Very lightweight
Stiff or flowy drape?	Flowy, slinky drape
Nap?	No nap
Typical fiber content?	Traditionally silk, now more often polyester or nylon
Opaque or sheer?	Sheer fabric
Shiny?	Non-shiny, but may have a slight sheen
Fraying?	Frays fairly easily
Pilling?	Prone to pilling and ripping
Cool or warm weather?	Better for warm weather, or as an outer decorative layer
What to make?	Overlay layer for skirts and dresses (especially bridal and bridesmaids), lingerie and sleepwear, breezy blouses, accessories (such as veils, scarves, and ribbons)
What needle to use?	Use a microtex needle or small size 60 or 70 universal needle

What kind of fabric is chiffon?

Chiffon is a lightweight, sheer fabric typically made from silk, nylon, or polyester. It’s got a fluid drape and a slightly grainy texture. You’ve probably seen this fabric used on bridesmaid dresses. It’s the outer layer of fabric that’s see through and gives the dress an elegant, airy look.

It is extremely delicate and will snag on anything, so it’s not the type of fabric you can use for everyday clothing. However, the gauzy texture makes it a popular choice for elegant and flowy garments, especially for special occasions.

Chiffon is renowned for its airy nature, giving it a delicate and ethereal appearance. It drapes beautifully and has a soft, smooth texture. Additionally, chiffon tends to have a considerable give to the fabric, enhancing its flexibility and fluid drape.

Chiffon fabric versus organza

Chiffon and organza are two types of material that people tend to get mixed up when learning about fabrics. They are both sheer, traditionally silk fabrics that are frequently used as overlays and outer layers of bridal attire and evening wear. However, that’s pretty much where the similarities between the two types of fabric end.

The most notable difference between chiffon and organza is the drape. Chiffon is known for its softer and more fluid drape, while organza has a crisp and stiff texture. Chiffon is often used to create a beautiful, fluid drape, with an almost fantasy-like effect on gowns. On the other hand, organza is used to create volume, making big ruffles and helping skirts and sleeves get more of a ‘poof’ look.

• Learn more about organza fabric

What can you make with chiffon fabric?

The most common usage of chiffon is, by far, the bridal industry. If you’ve ever seen or owned a bridesmaid dress, chiffon is that outer layer of fabric. Many of the more soft and flowy styles of bridal gowns also use chiffon to help create that dream-like effect.

Chiffon can also be used for various other garment styles, including dresses, skirts, and blouses, especially for layered garments, such as tiered dresses or ruffled skirts. It is also utilized in creating overlays, sleeves, and delicate details like bows or sashes. Chiffon fabric can also be used for scarves, lingerie, or even as a lightweight lining material.

Properties of chiffon fabric

• Texture: Chiffon fabric has a somewhat grainy texture due to it’s crepe-like weave. However, it’s not rough or itchy at all. Real silk chiffon has a little bit more texture to it, while polyester chiffon tends to be a little smoother.
• Flexibility: The loose weave and flowy nature of chiffon means it has small amount of give, especially along the bias. While this gives the fabric it’s lovely flowing drape, it also means the material will easily warp out of shape if you’re not careful.
• Weight: Chiffon fabric is extremely lightweight, often described as feather-like.
• Drape: Chiffon is known for having a flowy, almost fluid-like drape. Of all the fabrics I’ve worked with, nothing compares to the movement of chiffon fabric.
• Fiber composition: Chiffon fabric can be made from various fibers, the most common being silk, nylon, and polyester. Recently, I’ve been seeing some rayon and viscose chiffon pop up on my radar as well.
• Opacity: Chiffon fabric will always have some level of sheerness, but the transparency can vary. Silk chiffon, for example, tends to be more sheer compared to chiffon made from synthetic fibers. It is also possible to find chiffon fabrics that have a denser weave or are available in darker or more opaque colors, reducing their sheerness.
• Shine: Chiffon fabric has a natural, yet subtle sheen, but it is not considered a highly shiny fabric.
• Fraying: Chiffon fabric frays like crazy. Because it has such a loose weave and moves around easily, it’s one of those types of fabric that will feel like it disintegrates as soon as you touch it.
• Durability: Due to its delicate and lightweight nature, chiffon can is susceptible to snagging and ripping. A snag can also create a chain reaction, causing a run to form.
• Wrinkling: While chiffon too prone to wrinkling, its delicate nature does make it susceptible to some wrinkling. Silk chiffon tends to wrinkle more easily than polyester or nylon. Using a steamer with chiffon is usually a better option than using an iron.

How to sew with chiffon fabric

Chiffon is not an easy fabric to sew with. If you are a beginner who is just starting to sew, I do not recommend starting with chiffon. I could write a whole article about just this (and probably will soon!) but here are some of the problems you come across with some possible solutions to help you out.

• Cutting: always cut chiffon fabric in a single layer, rather than folded over. This will prevent the fabric from slipping against itself as you cut
• Use a rotary cutter: use a rotary cutter instead of fabric shears. This can help you get a more exact cut without having to shift the fabric at all. (When using a rotary cutter, you’ll also need a cutting mat)
• Use an extra sharp needle: I recommend using a sharp or microtex needle to sew chiffon. This will prevent puckering and snagging.
• Use a straight stitch plate: Find a straight stitch plate that fits your sewing machine. This will prevent your fabric from being pulled under and “eaten” by the sewing machine.
• Use sharp pins: switch to ultra-fine pins as well. This won’t slip out of the chiffon fabric so easily, keeping it more stable. You could also use clips instead of pins. Something like this can work well (but honestly even binder clips will do the job)
• Avoid overhandling the fabric: The main way to limit the fraying is to handle your fabric as little as possible. Only touch it and move it when you absolutely need to.
• Give a big seam allowance: You also want to be sure you have a big enough seam allowance (at least ½ inch), so it won’t unravel before you finish.
• Use French seams: I highly recommend learning about French seams as a seam finish. This is a technique that encloses the raw edge of your fabric within the seam allowance.
• Use a small stitch length: A stitch length of around 2 mm is often suitable for chiffon.
• Do not backstitch: this will crumple and munch the fabric. Instead, turn the fabric around to stitch forward, or tie off the ends manually.

How to care for chiffon fabric

Since chiffon is such a delicate fabric, it’s best to either handwash it or send it to the dry cleaners. In some cases, you can machine wash it on the delicate settings (I do not recommend this for real silk chiffon). However, there’s a possibility the fabric could snag on something in the washing machine, so it’s somewhat of a risk. You could try using a mesh laundry bag to make it less likely the chiffon will be damaged.

I also don’t recommend that you machine dry chiffon. There is a good chance it will get damaged in the dryer. The heat can also cause it to lose its shape or shrink a little. Instead, air-dry the chiffon material and let it hang or lay flat on a towel.