Fabric 101: Challis
Challis is a lightweight, soft, and flowy fabric that is frequently made from rayon. This fabric is known for being somewhat airy in the way it drapes, making it great for lightweight dresses, blouses, scarves, and other similar garments.
Fabric | Challis |
Texture? | Smooth and cool texture |
Stretch? | It’s a non-stretch fabric, but there is usually some give to the material due to the loose weave |
Weight? | Lightweight |
Stiff or flowy drape? | Flowy drape |
Typical fiber content? | Rayon challis is most common |
Opaque or sheer? | Mostly opaque but can be semi-sheer especially in lighter colors |
Shiny? | Slight sheen, but mostly matte |
Fraying? | Frays easily |
Cool or warm weather? | Best for warm weather |
What to make? | Best for flowy dresses, skirts, blouses, and flowy summer pants |
What needle to use? | Use a small size or microtex needle (size 60 or 70) |

What kind of fabric is Challis?
Challis is a type of fabric characterized by a loose weave which contributes to its lightweight nature. The surface of challis is primarily matte, and it’s known for having an airy, flowing drape, which makes it a favorite for clothing that requires a gentle, natural fall.
Because of its lightweight and flowy nature, challis is often compared to fabrics like georgette and chiffon. The main differences to keep in mind are that unlike the other two fabrics challis is mostly opaque (some light-colored challis is slightly see-through), and challis is mainly made with rayon, whereas georgette and chiffon are typically made from silk or polyester. Challis’s drape is also not quite as delicate and fluid as the other two types of fabric.
This means that challis is better than georgette or chiffon for garments that need a little more structure and can stand up to a little more wear and tear. Challis is also usually opaque enough that you don’t have to worry about a lining or coordinating undergarments.
Fabric | Transparency | Common Material | Drape |
Challis | More Opaque | Rayon/Viscose | Flowy with Slight Structure |
Georgette | Somewhat Transparent | Silk/Polyester | Delicate and Flowy |
Chiffon | Very Transparent | Silk/Polyester | Very Light and Delicate |

What is challis fabric used for?
Challis fabric is generally better for warmer climates because it’s breathable and lightweight. It’s great for flowy summer skirts and dresses, as well as lightweight, and airy blouses. Sometimes challis can be used for lightweight pants, such as harem pants, and this material is frequently used for lightweight summer scarves.

Properties of Challis fabric
Challis is a soft fabric, renowned for its smooth texture and flowy drape. The fabric is lightweight and often showcases intricate prints, making it a popular choice for crafting airy dresses, blouses, and scarves that require a fabric with a graceful fall. Its comfort and breathability also make it ideal for warmer seasons or as a layer in cooler climates.
- Texture: When you touch challis fabric, expect to feel a smooth and fairly soft surface. Rayon challis, specifically, is known for its cool smoothness, which actually feels really nice on a hot summer day.
- Weight: Challis is a lightweight material
- Drape: The fabric has a flowy drape, making it ideal for garments that require movement and a graceful fall
- Fiber: Usually, challis is made from rayon (viscose is most common), however it can be made from other fibers as well. Historically, a silk and wool blend was used.
- Sheen: Challis is typically matte, but it can have a slight sheen if the light hits it just right
- Fraying: Challis can fray quite easily, beware when sewing so that your seams don’t unravel too quickly.
- Wrinkling: Challis wrinkles easily since it’s mainly made using rayon fabric
- Breathable: Due to its loose weave, challis is very breathable and suitable for summer garments.

What to know before you start sewing with challis
Challis isn’t the most difficult fabric to sew with, but its loose weave, fluid drape, and easy fraying characteristics can still pose a problem if you’re not prepared. If this is your first time sewing with challis material, use these tips to give you the best success:
- Pre-Washing: Consider pre-washing challis to prevent any shrinkage after your garment is made. The loose weave often means that the fabric will shrink a little bit when it’s laundered.
- Needle Size: Use a smaller needle, such as a size 70/10, or switch to an extra sharp microtex needle to prevent snagging the fabric.
- Straight Stitch Throat Plate: If your machine allows, consider using a straight stitch throat plate to help stabilize the fabric and prevent it from being pulled into the machine.
- Cutting the Fabric: Because of challis’s drape it can move around and warp as you try to cut it, you may find using a rotary cutter to cut out pattern pieces provides a cleaner edge, reducing the chance of stretching the fabric.
- Handling Pattern Pieces: Handle your cut pattern pieces as little as possible. Challis tends to fray and can easily stretch out of shape.
- Staystitching: Do NOT skip staystitching on curves and necklines. This will help to prevent these areas from stretching and warping out of shape.
- Pinning: Use fine-point pins to avoid leaving holes in the fabric.
- Stitch Length: Opt for a shorter stitch length, around 2mm, which offers a secure seam without puckering the fabric.
- Seams finishes: For a clean finish inside and out, consider using french seams, which encase the raw edges.
- Interfacing: Choose featherweight interfacing where additional structure is necessary, to maintain the fabric’s lightweight feel.
- Hanging Garments: After constructing dresses or skirts, let the garment hang for at least 24 hours before hemming to ensure even length. The fabric can stretch a bit due to gravity pulling on the loose weave, so this helps keep the hem nice and neat.

How to care for Challis fabric
Challis fabric can be a bit delicate, so you want to make sure you handle it with care. You don’t have to get it dry cleaned or anything (unless you want to), but you will need to pay more attention to garments made with challis than something more robust.
Challis can be washed in a washing machine, but make sure to use the delicate settings and wash with cold water. This will help in preventing shrinkage. Alternatively, you can consider hand washing to be extra gentle, or opt for dry cleaning if you’re afraid you will ruin the material.
When it comes to drying, lay the fabric flat to air dry. This technique helps avoid stretching and misshaping that you might get from hanging the fabric. If you must use a dryer, set it to low heat or the delicate cycle to protect the fabric integrity.
Once the challis is dray, hang challis garments up for storage. Since the fabric wrinkles easily, you don’t want to store garments folded in a wardrobe.
If ironing is needed, set your iron to medium or low heat to avoid scorching. A pressing cloth between the iron and challis can provide extra protection, ensuring the longevity of your garments.
