Fabric 101: Lawn
Lawn fabric (usually called cotton lawn), is one of the most lightweight types of standard cotton materials. It’s known for having a much more breezy drape compared to other common cotton fabrics, such as poplin and broadcloth. Lawn is made using very fine (thin) yarns, which is what gives the material its lightweight properties. Even though it has a fairly high thread count, the cotton fiber and thinness of the material make it highly breathable.
Cotton lawn is most often used for summer dresses and lightweight summer clothing in Western countries. However, its most common usage is probably in Pakistan and India, where lawn is used to make kameez suits.
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| Fabric | Lawn |
| Texture? | Smooth and soft fabric |
| Stretch? | No stretch |
| Heavy or light? | Lightweight fabric |
| Stiff or flowy drape? | Somewhat flowy drape |
| Nap? | No nap |
| Typical fiber content? | Cotton (historically linen was used, but it’s less common now) |
| Opaque or sheer? | Semi-sheer fabric |
| Shiny? | Matte fabric |
| Fraying? | Expect a standard amount of fraying |
| Pilling? | Not prone to pilling |
| Colors and patterns? | Lawn is known for being printed in a wide variety of colorful patterns |
| Cool or warm weather? | Better for warm weather |
| What to make? | Used most commonly for kameez suits in Pakistan and India. It’s also used for breezy summer blouses, dresses and skirts |
| What needle to use? | Small universal needle (size 60 or 70) |
What kind of fabric is lawn?
Lawn fabric is a lightweight and fine cotton fabric, typically used for making summer clothing or delicate home textiles such as curtains and tablecloths. While the fabric is mostly opaque, holding it up to the light will reveal its semi-transparency. Lawn is also known for having a softer and less structured drape than other types of cotton fabric, and it will often feature fun prints or embroidery.
The yarns used in lawn are finely spun, resulting in a fabric that feels soft, smooth, and lightweight. This finer yarn characteristic sets lawn apart from other closely related fabrics like poplin or broadcloth, which have a slightly denser and less airy texture.
Historically lawn fabric was primarily made from linen. However, over time, cotton became the more popular choice for lawn fabric due to its affordability, ease of cultivation, and similar qualities to linen. Today, while lawn can still be found in linen variations, it is predominantly made from cotton. It’s even become common to refer to lawn as ‘cotton lawn.’
What can you make with lawn fabric?
Thanks to its breathable, lightweight, and delicate nature, cotton lawn is commonly used to create comfortable and breezy summer clothing such as dresses, blouses, skirts, and lightweight shirts. Depending on the opacity of the material, It can also be utilized for semi-sheer overlays, ruffled trims, or gathered details.
The most popular usage of cotton lawn worldwide is probably kameez suits in Pakistan and India. Cotton lawn is a popular choice for kameez due to its lightweight and breathable nature, which is well-suited for the hot and humid climates of South Asia.
Lawn fabric is also popular for creating delicate home textiles, including curtains, tablecloths, napkins, and bedding. Additionally, lawn can be used for accessories like scarves, handkerchiefs, and even intricate embroidery projects.
Properties of lawn fabric
- Texture: Lawn fabric has a distinct feel that is soft and smooth, smoother than most other types of cotton fabric. The texture is actually quite similar to rayon in that it is soft, but does not necessarily have the slightly fuzzy texture that is characteristic of most types of cotton material.
- Flexibility: Lawn fabric typically has minimal stretch or give due to its fine and tightly woven construction.
- Weight: Lawn is one of the lighter cotton fabrics available.
- Drape: Compared to other types of cotton fabric, lawn has a soft and breezy drape. However, it still tends to be crisper and stiffer than other types of fibers (like rayon and silk).
- Fiber content: Cotton lawn is the most widely available type of lawn fabric. Most of the time this will be 100% cotton, but sometimes you may find blends of cotton-and-polyester or cotton-and-linen.
- Opacity: Most types of cotton lawn will have some level of semi-transparency. Usually, this is just a slight sheerness that is revealed when you hold the material up to the light (the kind where you want to be careful with the color of your undergarments because bright pink will show through white lawn).
- Shine: Lawn has a smooth and matte finish, without significant shine or gloss.
- Fraying: While lawn fabric definitely frays, it’s not the type that’s going to disintegrate while you’re sewing it. Be sure to finish your seams to prevent fraying in the wash, but you should at least be able to finish your garment before the fraying gets out of hand.
- Durability: While not a super delicate fabric, lawn is more likely to snag or tear than more robust cotton fabrics.
- Wrinkling: Like most cotton fabrics, cotton lawn is prone to wrinkling.
- Breathability: Lawn fabric has a lightweight and breathable nature, making it comfortable to wear in hot and humid climates.
How easy is cotton lawn to sew?
Cotton lawn is fairly easy to sew, especially for those with some sewing experience. Its lightweight and smooth texture makes it easier to handle and maneuver compared to heavier fabrics, while still maintaining some structure and not slipping as you try to sew.
When sewing with cotton lawn, it is recommended to use a sharp needle appropriate for lightweight fabrics to avoid snagging or pulling. Usually, a small size 60 or 70 universal needle will be good enough. Sewing with a smaller stitch length can help prevent the fabric from puckering or distorting too.
How to care for lawn fabric
Machine washing cotton lawn is usually safe, but there are a few things to keep in mind. Use cold water to prevent shrinkage or color fading. It’s also recommended to wash it separately or with similar colors to avoid any potential color bleed.
You can also machine-dry cotton lawn, but you might want to use low-heat settings. Try to remember to remove the lawn from the dryer as soon as it’s done. This can help prevent extreme wrinkles from forming. But if you forget, it just means you’ll have to iron or steam your garment.
Speaking of ironing, since lawn is typically made from cotton, it can stand up to medium-high heat in most cases (always test an inconspicuous area first). You can also steam lawn easily. Personally, I find steaming is a quicker way to de-wrinkle flowy garments, like summer dresses.
