Which Types of Fabric are Worst for the Environment

When you’re updating your wardrobe, the environmental impact of your fabric choices might not be the first thing on your mind. However, the truth is that the textile industry has a significant environmental footprint. From resource-intensive cultivation and toxic dyes to non-biodegradable synthetics filling up our landfills, the clothes you choose can have a lasting effect on our planet.

Synthetics like polyester, for example, are derived from fossil fuels, take centuries to decompose, and release microplastics into the environment with each wash. Cotton may be natural, but conventional cotton farming is notorious for using large amounts of water and pesticides. There’s a whole world of textile impacts that could change the way you look at labels the next time you’re out shopping for new clothes.

1. Conventional cotton

Conventional cotton is a significant contributor to various ecological concerns. Your clothing made from conventional cotton might have a hidden cost beyond the price tag.

• Water Usage: Conventional cotton cultivation is intensive in its use of water. To produce just one kilogram of cotton, which is approximately equivalent to the fabric needed for one pair of jeans, thousands of liters of water are required. This enormous water footprint puts a strain on local water sources, especially in arid regions where irrigation is needed.
• Chemical Use: Cotton crops use a disproportionate amount of pesticides compared to other global crops. These chemicals can contaminate soil and water, posing risks to local ecosystems and human health.
• Effects on Soil: Conventional cotton farming methods are also linked with soil degradation. Over-reliance on synthetic fertilizers and regular tilling practices leads to soil erosion, loss of fertility, and disruption of natural biological processes in the soil.

In addition to the environmental impacts, the industry surrounding conventional cotton has been seriously detrimental to the farmers involved. The cost of cotton farming is high due to the need for expensive seeds, particularly genetically modified ones like Bt cotton, and the associated costs of chemical fertilizers and pesticides. These inputs are financially burdensome for farmers.

The high costs of inputs make it difficult for farmers to cover their expenses and repay loans, leading to a debt trap. The situation is so dire that it has led to a tragic number of farmer suicides in India, where a majority of conventional cotton is grown. Many of these suicides are attributed to the crippling debt burden faced by farmers in the cotton-growing regions.

2. Polyester 

Polyester is often highlighted as one of the worst fibers for the environment. Derived from petroleum, polyester is a synthetic fabric widespread in the fashion industry for its durability and low cost.

The production of polyester involves energy-intensive processes that release greenhouse gases, and the material itself is not biodegradable. This means that once your polyester garments are discarded, they linger in landfills for centuries.

Polyester can also contribute to microplastic pollution. During washing, tiny fibers shed from your clothes and can end up in the oceans, where they pose a threat to aquatic life.

Here are some pertinent points about polyester’s environmental impacts:

• Energy Consumption: Manufacturing polyester is resource-intensive, demanding significant energy input.
• Chemical Use: Hazardous chemicals are used in its creation, leading to potential soil and water contamination.
• Water Use: Although less water-reliant than some natural fibers during production, dyeing and finishing polyester still require substantial water resources.

3. Most viscose rayon

Viscose rayon, also known simply as viscose, is a type of fabric that has garnered attention for its environmental impact. While initially it may seem that rayon fibers, derived primarily from wood pulp, is an eco-friendly option, the production process involves chemically intensive steps that have consequences for both worker health and environmental well-being.

• Chemical Use: The transformation of wood pulp into usable fiber requires the application of chemicals like carbon disulfide, which can release extremely harmful pollutants into the environment.
• Water Pollution: The processing of viscose is water-intensive and can lead to the contamination of local water sources with chemicals used during production.
• Energy Consumption: The production chain demands significant amounts of energy, contributing to wider environmental detriments.

In terms of fabric characteristics, you’ll find that viscose tends to have poor wet strength, which means it can be less durable compared to other fibers. This affects the longevity of products made from viscose, potentially leading to a faster turnover and more waste.

4. Nylon

Nylon fabric is known for its durability and versatility, but it has a considerable environmental impact. Its production involves the release of nitrous oxide, a potent greenhouse gas. It is synthesized from petrochemicals, which means fossil fuels are a core part of its lifecycle. Creating nylon is also an energy-intensive process that requires large amounts of water. 

When you discard nylon products, they can persist in the environment for decades. As the material slowly breaks down, it can release microplastics into the oceans and broader ecosystem, just like polyester.

Nylon recycling is possible and can mitigate some environmental impact. However, the recycling process is not widespread and can itself be resource-intensive. Consider alternatives or recycled nylon options when possible to reduce your environmental footprint.

5. Some types of wool

While some people consider wool to be a natural and sustainable fabric (since sheep regrow their coats annually), it’s not as simple as that. Since wool production involves farming large herds of animals, there is often a greater environmental impact than fabrics that are derived from plant-based origins.

• Environmental Impact: The raising of sheep often requires large amounts of land, which can lead to deforestation and loss of biodiversity. Additionally, in some cases sheep farming can contribute to soil erosion and degradation.
• Water Usage: Sheep farming can be water-intensive, both for the animals themselves and for the growth of their feed. Cleaning wool also requires large quantities of water.
• Greenhouse Gas Emissions: Sheep produce methane, a potent greenhouse gas, contributing to climate change.
• Animal Welfare Concerns: While not directly an environmental issue, the ethical treatment of animals is a component of sustainability for many people. Practices like mulesing raise animal welfare concerns and are considered inhumane by many animal rights organizations.
• Land Use: Extensive land is required to graze sheep, which can lead to overgrazing and desertification, affecting the land’s ability to capture carbon and support biodiversity.

It’s important to note that the sustainability of wool can vary greatly depending on the farming practices. Some wool producers are working to mitigate these issues through more sustainable practices, such as organic farming, rotational grazing, and improved water management.

Fabric Dyeing and Finishing Processes

When you choose fabric, it’s important to consider the dyes and fixatives used too. Some fabrics are treated with synthetic dyes containing chemicals like azo and formaldehyde that can be harmful to the environment. These dyes may be difficult to break down in wastewater treatment plants, leading to the pollution of natural water bodies. Fixatives, which help dyes adhere to fabrics, often contain heavy metals such as chromium, which can accumulate and cause serious ecological damage as well.

Washing methods during the dyeing process can require vast amounts of water, adding to the environmental strain. Many of these processes include rinsing cycles that expel untreated dyes into water systems, leading to issues like eutrophication, which deteriorates water quality and affects aquatic life. The push towards sustainable practices in the textile dyeing industry is essential to reduce the water footprint associated with fabric dyeing and finishing.