Fabric 101: Fleece

Fleece is a very soft fabric that is made of synthetic fibers (usually polyester) to create a fluffy, fuzzy texture. Some types of fleece will have a more pronounced fluffy texture than others, but there will always be a fuzzy appearance on the surface of at least one side (sometimes both).

Fleece is a type of knit fabric. However, it is a stable knit, which means it has very little or no stretch to it. It’s most commonly used for outerwear garments, like jackets and coats, or warm pajamas. You might also see it as a lining in winter garments to make them warmer and softer against the skin.

Fabric	Fleece
Texture?	Soft and fluffy on at least one side
Stretch?	No stretch
Heavy or light?	Somewhat heavy-weight
Stiff or drape?	Stiff, heavy drape
Nap?	Nap can be short pile or high pile
Typical fiber content?	Synthetic fiber
Opaque or sheer?	Opaque fabric
Shiny?	Not shiny
Fraying?	Does not fray
Pilling?	Some types of fleece are no-pill and resistant to pilling
Other identifying properties?	Fleece is water and moisture resistant
Cool or warm weather?	Fleece is better for cold weather
What to make?	Used for blankets, coats, jackets, linings, pajamas, and winter accessories
What needle to use?	Use a jersey or stretch needle

What kind of fabric is fleece?

Fleece is what you think of when you imagine a nice warm blanket or a cozy, fuzzy jacket. Fleece is considered a stable knit fabric, which means it does not stretch like most other types of knits. It’s also a great insulating fabric, meaning it keeps warmth in. This is what makes it so great for winter garments and accessories (like hats, gloves, and scarfs)

Most types of fleece will include only one face that has the typical fuzzy feel to it, leaving the back as is. However, the material can also be brushed on both sides too, especially if you’re dealing with something like polar fleece.

Types of fleece fabric

While all types of fleece will have a distinct fuzzy, napped texture, there are different types you can purchase depending on what you’re making.

• Polyester fleece: this is typically what you would think of when you imagine a fleece jacket. It’s not a short pile, but it’s not the super fluffy kind of fleece either. Most often one side will have a napped texture and not the other side.
• Microfleece: this type of fleece has a very short pile. Most of the time, it will be very similar in texture to flannel fabric.
• Polar fleece: this is a type of very fluffy fleece that has a napped texture on both sides of the fabric. It can look almost like very thick and fluffy felt fabric.
• Performance fleece: this is made to wear while exercising in cold weather. It typically has a very short nap and is more flexible than other types of fleece fabric.
• Minky fleece: this type of fleece has longer strands of napped texture that almost look more like individual hairs, but it’s not quite as distinct as faux fur would look.

You can also find other types of knit material that have a fleece backing. This is what you can expect for a sweatshirt or sweatpants, for example, that are warm and fuzzy on the inside.

What can you make with fleece fabric?

Fleece is most often used in winter clothing due to its ability to insulate. You’ll often see it used in coats and jackets, as well as the linings of these items. You can also use fleece for bedding materials, such as warm blankets or even towels. Winter hats, scarves, and gloves are also frequently made out of fleece fabric. Microfleece is used for warm winter pajamas as well.

Properties of fleece knit fabric

• Texture: Fleece fabric is made to be super soft and cozy. It’s got a somewhat fluffy, cloud-like texture that makes it really pleasant to wear.
• Stretch: Even though fleece is a knit fabric, it doesn’t stretch much. You might get a very small amount of stretch crosswise, but it’s an insignificant amount in most varieties of fleece fabric. There is an exception for some performance fleece materials that are specifically made to be more comfortable during activities.
• Weight: Fleece is a medium to heavy-weight fabric, depending on the type of fleece you use. Polar fleece, for example, is a thick heavy-weight material, while microfleece is a lot thinner and suitable for medium-weight garments.
• Drape: Whether you’re working with microfleece or polar fleece, you can expect it to be a fairly structured material that is not suitable for any type of flowy skirt or garment.
• Fiber composition: Fleece fabric is typically made from polyester. Sometimes, fleece fabric will include cotton, rayon, or wool mixed into the fiber content, but most of the time the softest fleece is still made out of polyester.
• Opacity: Fleece is a completely opaque fabric. If you ever find patchy fleece fabric that is semi-sheer, that probably means it’s fairly low quality or old enough that the nap is rubbed to the nub.
• Shine: Some microfleece fabrics have a little bit of an sheen to the surface, but it’s not a distinct glossy shine.
• Fraying: Due to its knit structure, fleece fabric does not fray.
• Pilling: Fleece is prone to pilling, especially if you wash it frequently. This is why it’s better used for the type of garment that requires less washing, such as coats, gloves, and scarves. You can buy anti-pill fleece fabric that is highly resistant to pilling over time. However, this tends to be much more expensive than typical fleece fabric.
• Wrinkling: Fleece is wrinkle-resistant, especially when made with polyester fibers. Generally, the thicker the fleece material is, the more wrinkle-resistant it will be.
• Moisture repellant: Fleece is also somewhat moisture repellant. However, if you’re stuck in a complete downpour, or jump into a lake, the material is not 100% water-proof, and can still get wet with enough water.
• Breathability: Fleece is not very breathable due to it’s insulating pile and the polyester fiber content.

How to sew with fleece fabric

Thinner types of fleece fabric are not overly difficult to sew with, but the thicker the type of fleece you’re using, the more of a challenge it will be. For something as thick as polar fleece, for example, you’ll need to adjust your presser foot, thread tension, and thread length until you get it to work with your fabric. You also need to avoid overpressing the seams so you don’t completely squash the plush material.

• Needle Choice: Even though it’s not a stretch fabric, fleece is still knit. For that reason, it’s best to use a ballpoint needle (also called a jersey needle). 
• Do you need to use a stretch stitch? Unless you’re using a fleece material that stretches, you do not need to use the zigzag stretch stitches that you typically need to use for knit fabrics. A standard straight stitch length is usually okay to use.
• For thick fleece, use a longer stitch length: If you’re using thick fleece, lengthen the stitch length to account for the extra bulk (usually around 3mm is good)
• Use a fleece remnant as a press cloth when pressing seams. This will help you avoid crushing the fluffy texture of the material. Press from the back whenever possible too.
• Topstitching can help flatten seams that don’t press nicely.

How to care for fleece fabric

Fleece fabric is not difficult to store. It doesn’t need to be hung up, and can typically be folded without developing significant creases. Overall, it stands up well to wear and tear and does not even need to be washed often.

How to iron

In general, you do not want to iron fleece. The main reason is that as you iron the material, you will crush the nap. There is also a good chance that the fibers will start to melt on the surface since they can’t stand up to high temperatures.

If you have a one-sided fleece material with a fairly short pile, you may be able to iron it from the back. However, be sure to test a scrap piece of fabric before trying this on your actual garment pieces.

If you need to de-wrinkle your fleece fabric, a steamer is usually a better option than an iron. Steamers are not that expensive, so I highly recommend adding one to your garment maintenance routine (this is the one I use).

washing fleece

While there are not really any special instructions for washing fleece, you want to avoid it as much as possible to help the fabric last longer. The material tends to pill a lot as it goes through the laundering cycle, so after a while, it won’t have the nice smooth surface you expect from fleece fabric.