Fabric 101: Lamé
Historically, lamé fabric was made with precious metals (such as gold and silver) woven into the material, but nowadays, imitation lamé (with a metallic-like finish) is more common and does not use actual metal in the material. The fabric can be either woven or a stretch-knit material.
Lamé is not a fabric that you see for everyday clothing. My experience with it is limited to faux lamé in my cosplay days. The shiny, metallic fabric is excellent for making a variety of fantasy and sci-fi costumes. True precious metal lamé is almost exclusively used in high fashion, especially among runway designs. You can also find this fabric used to make shiny accessories, such as purses, belts, and ties.
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| Fabric | Lamé |
| Texture? | The texture can vary. The lamé I’ve dealt with has ranged from smooth and glossy, to rough and itchy |
| Stretch? | Stretch lamé is highly stretchy, while woven lamé is not |
| Heavy or light? | Generally somewhat lightweight |
| Stiff or drape? | Woven lamé tends to have a somewhat stiff drape, while stretch lamé is more fluid |
| Nap? | No nap |
| Typical fiber content? | Typically synthetic fibers or aluminum are used nowadays. Genuine lamé usually uses silk with real precious metals |
| Opaque or sheer? | Generally opaque fabric |
| Shiny? | Shiny, metallic fabric |
| Fraying? | Woven lamé will fray while knit lamé does not |
| Pilling? | Not prone to pilling |
| Cool or warm weather? | Not great for hot weather due to low breathability |
| What to make? | Used for costumes, accessories, and high-end apparel. A slightly different type of lamé is also used for uniforms in the sport of fencing |
| What needle to use? | It depends on the type of lamé. Usually a microtex needle or a stretch needle |
What kind of fabric is lamé?
Lamé is a shimmering fabric characterized by its metallic appearance. It is often made with a combination of metallic yarns or a metallic-like coating applied to the surface of a fabric. The fabric has a glossy or reflective surface. While originally it was only available in gold and silver (to mimic original lamé) imitation lamé fabric is starting to be available in a wider variety of colors and patterns.
Historically, lamé was made using real metallic threads of gold or silver woven with silk or other natural fibers. The technique of creating lamé fabric originated in ancient civilizations but became popular in Europe during the Renaissance period. Lamé symbolized wealth, power, and prestige.
While this type of real lamé does still exist, it’s prohibitively expensive for the average sewist like you and me. Instead, what you are more likely to come into contact with is faux lamé which is made to look like metallic fabric. Some imitation lamé will use cheaper metals, such as aluminum woven into the fabric.
Faux lamé fabric offers the look and feel of metallic fabric without the use of genuine metal fibers. Faux lamé fabric is typically made using synthetic materials such as polyester or nylon, combined with a metallic coating.
Imitation woven lamé versus liquid lamé
While there are actually many different types of lamé, they can be understood in two main categories, woven and stretch (which is typically called liquid lamé). Both woven and stretch lamé have the same name and are made to mimic metallic lamé fabric, but that’s pretty much where their similarities end.
The look and feel of the two different fabrics are completely different.
- Appearance: woven lamé has a glossy finish giving it an almost reflective property. The finish on liquid lame, however, needs to account for stretch. So it’s usually not quite as smooth or mirror-like.
- Drape: Liquid lamé has an extremely flowy, fluid-like drape. The fabric has a natural tendency to drape and contour, creating elegant and flattering lines, and a body-hugging fit. Woven lamé tends to be much stiffer and has a crisp drape.
- Structure: As you might expect, woven lamé is a woven material (often made with aluminum yarns), while stretch lamé is a knit material that incorporates spandex (or elastane) to allow for a significant stretch.
- Uses: Woven lamé is commonly used for decorative purposes, such as trims, accents, and upholstery. Stretch lamé is commonly used in garments that require stretch and flexibility, such as dancewear, activewear, and costumes.
- Durability: Imitation woven lamé is more resistant to abrasion and better suited for applications where durability and structure are crucial. Liquid lamé, with its stretch properties, can offer flexibility, making it suitable for garments requiring mobility.
What can you make with lamé fabric?
My experience with lamé is pretty much reserved for costumes and cosplay. It’s an excellent fabric for creating sci-fi and fantasy-style clothing. You can make anything from capes to glittering ball gowns, and alien body suits.
In the real world, lamé is used most frequently for high-end evening wear and formal attire. Stretch lamé is also used for competition dance attire, for apparel like leotards and leggings. Lamé can also be used for belts, purses, and other similar accessories, as well as curtains and drapes.
Properties of lamé fabric
- Texture: Lamé has a smooth or metallic texture that varies depending on the presence of metallic yarns or coatings. It’s usually not the most comfortable of fabrics to wear, and can sometimes feel itchy or rough against the skin.
- Stretch: Woven lamé has no stretch at all, and limited give even along the bias. On the other hand, stretch lamé incorporates elastic fibers like elastane (or spandex) into its composition, allowing for greater stretch and flexibility.
- Weight: Most types of lamé are somewhat lightweight to medium-weight.
- Drape: Woven lamé fabric tends to have a more structured and slightly stiffer nature. Stretch lamé fabric offers greater flexibility and a more fluid drape (which is why it’s often called liquid lamé).
- Fiber composition: Today, lamé is commonly made using synthetic fibers, such as polyester or nylon, combined with metallic or holographic finishes, rather than using real metal. Sometimes aluminum will be used in place of gold or silver to create a more realistic effect. Liquid lamé is created using a blend of synthetic fibers like polyester, nylon, or spandex.
- Opacity: Lamé can come in both opaque and semi-sheer variations, depending on the desired effect and the specific type of lamé fabric. However, most of the lamé that I have worked with has maintained a mostly opaque if not completely opaque quality.
- Shine: Lamé is known for its inherent shine and metallic luster. It is a fabric that exhibits a high level of reflectivity, often featuring a shimmering or glossy surface.
- Fraying: Due to its metallic or synthetic fiber content, woven lamé fabric can have a looser weave or delicate threads, making it more susceptible to fraying along the cut edges. However, stretch lamé is a type of knit material, and so does not fray.
- Wrinkling: The metallic or synthetic fibers used in lamé make it more prone to creasing, especially when subjected to folding or compression. However, the degree of wrinkling can also depend on the specific composition and quality of the lamé fabric. For example, stretch lamé can retain its shape and recover from wrinkles more easily than most woven types.
- Breathability: The metallic or synthetic fibers used in lamé fabric make it completely unbreathable. In hot weather, it will trap heat against the body, making you feel like you’re wearing a walking sauna (ask me how I know…).
How to sew with lamé fabric
No matter what type of lamé you’re using, it’s going to be a challenge to sew. Imitation woven lamé is going to be slightly easier than stretch, liquid lamé. With the woven material, you’re really just fighting with the slippery and delicate surface of the fabric. However, with liquid lamé, you’re adding in a stretch factor that is basically a nightmare.
Challenges and tips for sewing with lamé fabric:
- Cut out one layer at a time, rather than folding your fabric in half to keep the layers from slipping against each other.
- Hand-baste your pattern pieces together before sewing the seams to prevent them from slipping against each other.
- Use extra sharp microtex needles and ultra-fine pins. You also want to keep the pins in the seam allowance so you don’t end up with visible pinholes on your final garment.
- For stretch lamé: Use a stretch needle and sew with a serger if it’s available. If you don’t have a serger, switch to a walking foot on your normal sewing machine to keep the fabric from stretching out while you sew. You also want to use a zigzag stitch so that the thread won’t snap when you need to stretch your fabric later.
How to care for lamé fabric
Hand-washing or using the delicate cycle on your washing machine with cold water is usually recommended for imitation lamé. The lamé that I’ve worked with (both woven and stretch) held up well in both the washer and dryer since they are made of synthetic material which tends to hold up well to washing.
If at all possible, test-wash a swatch of the lamé first. Since the lamé typically has some sort of coating, it has the potential to get messed up if too much heat is used.
