Fabric 101: Linen 

Linen is a fiber that I am trying to work with more. Although it’s a bit on the expensive side, linen is one of the most sustainable types of fabric to work with. Since my goal when I started sewing was to be as eco-conscious as possible, linen is definitely something I wanted to learn how to use.

Linen is known for being a highly durable and breathable type of material. It is a type of fiber that can be used to make a variety of different types of material. However, most linen will be somewhat lightweight with a loose weave, making it ideal for summer clothing.

Fabric	Linen
Texture?	Somewhat rough texture, but it often softens with use and washing
Stretch?	Usually no stretch (linen knit fabrics do exist, but they are rare)
Heavy or light?	Generally medium to lightweight, but it can vary
Stiff or flowy drape?	Moderate drape, not too flowy, but generally not stiff
Nap?	No nap
Opaque or sheer?	Lightweight linen is often semi-sheer, while medium and heavyweight fabric is typically opaque
Shiny?	Linen is not a shiny fabric
Fraying?	Linen frays, but generally not excessively (looser weaves fray more)
Pilling?	Mostly resistant to pilling
Other identifying properties?	Irregular slubs going across the width of the fabric due to natural irregularities in the fiber yarns.
Cool or warm weather?	Better for warm weather
What to make?	Lightweight skirts, dresses, blouses, summer shorts, and pants, as well as breathable summer suits. Linen is also used for bedding, tablecloths, curtains, and other upholstery
What needle to use?	A universal needle (usually 80, but depends on the weight of your fabric)

What is linen?

Linen is a natural fiber derived from the flax plant that is breathable and extremely durable. It has been used to weave into fabric for thousands of years, particularly in the Mediterranean region where its breathable nature made it suitable for the warmer climates. Today, linen is not used as much as cheaper fibers like cotton and synthetic materials, but it’s still a pillar of the fabric world.

Linen itself is a fiber, not a specific fabric. It can be used to construct any number of different materials. However, it’s most commonly used to create light to medium-weight fabrics that are wearable in hot climates.

Linen is recognizable by its natural irregular texture. Slight slubs or thick/thin sections in the fabric, are a standard characteristic of material made with linen fibers. It has a slightly coarse texture that softens over time. Linen is also known for its tendency to wrinkle easily, and for having a moderate, somewhat flowy drape.

What can you make with linen fabric?

You can make just about anything with linen. From flowy sundresses to button-up shirts, and comfortable skirts and trousers, linen has got you covered. You can even make some accessories, like scarves and bags, or home decor items, like tablecloths and drapes. The versatility of linen allows it to be incorporated into just about any aspect of our daily lives.

Properties of linen fabric

• Texture: Most linen fabric has a somewhat rough and uncomfortable texture. However, even though it initially feels uncomfortable, it softens with use and subsequent laundering.
• Stretch: You can make stretch knit fabrics out of linen, but it’s more often used for non-stretch woven fabrics.
• Weight: Most linen will be light to medium weight, especially if it’s made for apparel. However, heavier linen fabrics also exist, especially in upholstery or home decor, where a more substantial weight is needed.
• Drape: Linen fabric tends to have a more structured and slightly crisp feel, especially when it’s newly woven or unwashed. However, as linen is worn and laundered, it gradually softens and gains a lovely drape. Some linen intended for garments will already be washed and treated to have this softer drape off the rack.
• Shine: Linen is typically a matte fabric.
• Fraying: Linen is generally considered to have moderate fraying tendencies, especially when used with a more structured weave. Lightweight linen fabric with loose weaves can have more serious fraying problems.
• Wrinkling: Linen fabric is known for its tendency to wrinkle extremely easily. Wrinkles and creases can form on linen fabric after extended wear or when not properly stored. 
• Slubs: Slubs in linen fabric are irregularities or thickened areas in the threads that create a subtle, slightly bumpy texture. These slubs occur naturally due to the unevenness of the flax fibers. Slubs are a unique characteristic of linen and can vary in size and frequency across the fabric. They are not considered flaws, but rather a desirable feature that enhances the organic and authentic feel of linen.
• Breathability: Thanks to its breathable and moisture-wicking properties, linen fabric allows air circulation and helps to keep the body cool.

How to care for linen fabric

Linen fabric can generally be machine-washed with no problem. It’s a pretty sturdy fabric so there is not much chance of it snagging or ripping in the laundry. It can even make the fabric softer and more comfortable after multiple wash cycles.

However, you do probably want to stick to cool or lukewarm water. If your linen has not been pre-shrunk there is a high chance it will shrink considerably in hot water.

The same goes for dryer settings. It’s generally best if you stick to low heat settings or air drying. If you did pre-wash and pre-shrink your fabric before sewing, it’s probably fine, but linen does have a greater tendency to shrink than most other fibers.

Linen and environmental sustainability

Linen is often revered as one of the most sustainable fibers for fabric. It starts with the flax plant, which requires fewer pesticides and water compared to other crops (like cotton). Additionally, almost every part of the flax plant is used, minimizing waste. 

Linen also has a long lifespan, since it is an extremely durable fabric that can withstand repeated use and washing, reducing the need for frequent replacement. Furthermore, linen is biodegradable, meaning it will naturally break down over time, leaving a minimal environmental footprint.

When purchasing linen fabric, there are a few certifications and labels that you can look out for to ensure its quality and sustainability. The Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) is a globally recognized certification for organic textiles, including linen, which guarantees the use of organic farming practices and environmentally friendly production methods. 

Another certification to consider is the OEKO-TEX Standard 100, which ensures that the fabric has been tested for harmful substances and is safe for human use. Additionally, you can look for linen fabrics that are certified by the Masters of Linen label, which guarantees the traceability, authenticity, and European origin of the linen. These certifications help ensure that the linen fabric you choose meets specific standards of sustainability, quality, and ethical production.

Linen versus cotton

Linen and cotton are both natural plant fibers that are used in fabric creation. If you’re just starting to learn about fabric, you may think linen and cotton are basically the same. However, some distinct differences separate the two and can help you differentiate the fibers.

• Fiber Source: Linen is derived from the flax plant, while cotton comes from the cotton plant. 
• Texture: Linen has a slightly coarse texture, which softens with time and wear. On the other hand, cotton has a softer and smoother texture right from the start.
• Breathability: Linen is highly breathable, allowing air to circulate easily through its loosely woven structure. Cotton is also breathable but not as much as linen, making it suitable for a wider range of climates.
• Absorbency: Linen has excellent moisture-wicking properties, absorbing moisture and quickly drying afterward. Cotton is also absorbent, but it retains moisture more than linen, making it heavier in humid climates.
• Wrinkling: Linen has a tendency to wrinkle easily due to its relaxed structure, while cotton generally has softer wrinkles with less distinct creases.
• Durability: Linen is known for its strength and durability, being two to three times stronger than cotton.
• Care: Linen requires specific care to maintain its quality, as it can shrink and wrinkle easily. Cotton is generally easier to care for, as it is less prone to shrinking and tends to be more wrinkle-resistant.
• Price: Cotton fabrics are typically much cheaper than linen