How to Know if The Wool You Buy is Sustainable and Ethical (for home sewists)

Wool is always a controversial type of fabric to discuss. It is an animal-produced product that is made by shearing the coats of mainly sheep, but sometimes other animals as well (such as alpacas and Angora rabbits). This means that the sustainability of wool relies not only on the energy consumption and resources needed to raise the herds but also on the ethical treatment of all the animals involved.

Some people are against wool fabric on principle, since it is not a vegan material. As a whole, most wool fabric that’s easily available for purchase is not sustainable. However, in my opinion, purchasing wool fabric (or clothing) is ethical if it is certified as being humanely produced (more on specific certifications to look for if you scroll down a bit).

Personally, I do not buy much wool fabric, but I’m not wholly against it as a material. It has more to do with the price of buying certified humane and sustainable wool fabric. Of course, you should make your own decisions about what types of fabric you want to sew with. I will try to give you information and resources so that you can make an informed decision for yourself.

Can wool be a sustainable fabric?

Wool has the potential to be a sustainable fabric when produced and processed using environmentally friendly practices that also take animal welfare into account. By choosing wool products from ethically raised sheep and supporting responsible farming practices, we can embrace its sustainability 

The natural properties of wool make it a renewable resource, as it is sheared from sheep (or other animals with wool) without harming them. Additionally, wool is biodegradable, meaning it will break down naturally over time, minimizing its environmental impact after it’s used as well. 

Here are some reasons why wool can be considered sustainable:

• Renewable and Biodegradable: Wool comes from a natural and renewable resource. As sheep naturally regrow their wool, it can be harvested without depleting the resource. Moreover, wool is biodegradable, meaning it can break down naturally over time, minimizing its environmental impact at the end of its lifecycle.
• Durable and Long-lasting: Wool is known for its durability and longevity. With proper care, wool garments can last for a very long time, reducing the need for frequent replacements. This longevity helps minimize waste and contributes to a more sustainable fashion industry.
• Carbon Sequestration: Wool-producing sheep help absorb and store carbon dioxide from the atmosphere, contributing to the reduction of greenhouse gas emissions. Sustainable wool farming practices can further enhance carbon sequestration potential, promoting sustainable land management.
• Water Efficiency: Compared to other textile fibers, wool requires relatively low amounts of water during production. Additionally, certain regions with extensive wool production, like New Zealand, often have abundant rainfall, making water availability less of a concern.

To ensure wool’s sustainability, it’s important to support brands that prioritize responsible farming practices, animal welfare, and transparent supply chains. Additionally, certifications like the Responsible Wool Standard (RWS), organic certifications, or those addressing animal welfare can offer assurance of sustainable wool sourcing.

How to know if wool has been ethically sourced?

Not all wool fabric is equal. Since it is an animal product, it’s incredibly important to ensure that the farming practices of the wool or brand you’re purchasing include considerations for the humane treatment of the animals involved (whether they be sheep, alpacas, angoras, or any other wool-producing animal)

First, look for certifications such as the Responsible Wool Standard (RWS) or Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS), which guarantee ethical practices throughout the wool supply chain. These certifications ensure that farmers prioritize animal welfare, follow best farming practices, and avoid harmful chemicals.

You can also support organizations that emphasize the significance of transparency and traceability within the wool supply chain. This can even include details about the farms and farmers they work with. 

Alternatively, consider supporting local and small-scale producers who might prioritize sustainable and ethical approaches. Building a direct relationship with local farmers or artisanal wool producers can provide you with more confidence about the sourcing methods.

Certifications for wool fabric

There are several certifications for wool fabric and products that can help you determine if it has been ethically produced. Here are a few notable ones to consider:

• Responsible Wool Standard (RWS): This certification ensures that sheep farming practices prioritize animal welfare, land management, and traceability throughout the supply chain.
• Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS): Although not wool-specific, GOTS certification guarantees that the entire production process, including the sourcing of raw materials like wool, meets strict organic and ethical standards.
• Animal Welfare Approved (AWA): AWA certification focuses on ensuring the humane treatment of animals, including sheep, throughout their lives. This certification verifies that wool comes from farms that prioritize animal welfare protocols.
• Certified Humane Wool: This certification guarantees that sheep have been raised and handled following specific animal welfare standards, including humane shearing practices and overall farm management.

Remember, certifications alone may not cover every aspect of ethical wool production, so it’s important to research and consider additional factors, such as the brand’s transparency, supply chain visibility, and commitment to sustainability.

Is the wool industry harmful to animals?

The wool industry, like any industry involving animals, can pose concerns regarding animal welfare if not properly managed. Certain types of wool production and practices have raised concerns within the industry.

Shearing, a necessary part of wool production, is generally not harmful when performed correctly by skilled and trained shearers. In fact, Regular shearing is essential for the welfare of sheep, as it prevents overheating, potential health issues, and discomfort due to excessive wool growth. However, there are still unethical practices that raise concerns about animal welfare. 

Some of these practices include:

• Rushed shearing and aggressive handling: Improper handling during shearing can result in cuts, bruises, and injuries to sheep. When shearers prioritize speed over the well-being of the animals, it can lead to unnecessary harm.
• Shearing during unsuitable weather conditions: Shearing sheep in unfavorable weather conditions, such as extreme cold, can put their health at risk and cause a lot of discomfort. It is crucial to prioritize the comfort and well-being of the animals during the shearing process.
• Mulesing: Mulesing is a practice primarily associated with merino sheep farming in some regions. It involves the removal of strips of skin around the sheep’s breech area to reduce the risk of flystrike. The practice has generated criticism due to the pain and discomfort inflicted on the sheep.
• Live export for wool: In some instances, live animal export is employed for wool production, with the animals being transported long distances under often crowded and stressful conditions. This practice has faced criticism due to the challenges posed to animal welfare during transport, particularly when proper care and conditions are not strictly maintained.
• Plucking: Plucking is a practice commonly used with angora rabbits. Instead of shaving or shearing their wool, the long strands are plucked out. This is an inhumane practice used in the vast majority of angora wool production and this is why this is considered one of the least ethical types of wool.
• Exploitative labor practices: Unethical practices can extend beyond the treatment of animals. Issues such as low wages, poor working conditions, and lack of proper contracts and protections for shearers can also be a concern.

The environmental impact of wool

Overall, wool can be considered to have a relatively low environmental impact compared to many other fibers. Its natural and renewable characteristics, such as biodegradability and low energy consumption in use, make it a more sustainable choice. However, there are always going to be variations within the wool industry, and not all wool production practices are sustainable.

Land use

Wool production requires grazing lands for sheep, which can have an impact on natural ecosystems if not managed sustainably. However, responsible land management practices can enhance biodiversity, soil health, and carbon sequestration in pasturelands. It actually uses less land compared to crops like cotton. By utilizing natural grazing lands for sheep, wool can minimize the need for additional land clearance.

Water usage

The water footprint of wool is relatively low compared to other textile materials like cotton. Cotton cultivation often requires significant irrigation, whereas sheep rely on rainfall for grazing, thus reducing the strain on water resources.

However, water is still needed for washing and processing wool during production, and the water-intensive dyeing process can contribute to environmental impact if not managed properly.

Chemical usage

Wool production may involve the use of chemicals during processing, such as scouring agents or dyes. However, responsible producers strive to minimize chemical use and opt for natural dyes and eco-friendly alternatives. Organic certifications like GOTS ensure the avoidance of harmful chemicals in wool processing.

Biodegradability

Wool is a natural and biodegradable fiber, which means it can decompose naturally and return to the environment without causing long-term pollution, Unlike synthetic fibers such as polyester or nylon. When disposed of, wool can naturally decompose without contributing to long-term pollution or microplastic waste.

Energy consumption

The energy consumption in wool production varies depending on the specific processes involved, but as a natural fiber, it generally has a lower energy impact compared to synthetic fibers that require chemical-intensive production methods

What types of wool are the most sustainable or ethical?

If you want to buy wool sustainably, you will have to do a little bit of research and look into the certifications of the wool you’re looking to purchase. This is true whether you’re looking to purchase the material in bulk or buy single garments made from sustainably sourced fabric.

• Recycled Wool: Utilizing recycled wool reduces the demand for new wool production and helps divert waste. It can be sourced from post-consumer garments or industrial waste, reducing reliance on virgin resources.
• Organic Wool: Produced following strict organic farming standards, organic wool avoids the use of synthetic pesticides, herbicides, and genetically modified organisms (GMOs). This type of wool prioritizes environmental health and often ensures better animal welfare practices.
• Certified Responsible Wool: Wool that carries certifications like the Responsible Wool Standard (RWS) guarantees certain sustainability and animal welfare standards throughout the supply chain. Look for brands or products that adhere to these certification guidelines.
• Locally Sourced Wool: Choosing wool that is sourced locally minimizes the carbon footprint associated with transportation. It supports local economies and you can often visit local farms to know the quality of life of the animals.
• Low-Impact or Natural Dye Wool: Consider wool that is dyed using low-impact or natural dyeing methods. These approaches avoid the use of harmful chemicals, reducing environmental pollution and promoting healthier ecosystems.
• Alpaca Wool: Alpaca wool is often considered highly sustainable and ethical. Alpacas have a relatively low impact on land due to their grazing habits, and their wool is naturally hypoallergenic, eliminating the need for chemical treatments. Alpacas are typically raised by small-scale farmers, allowing for more traceable and transparent supply chains.
• Buying Wool Second-Hand: Don’t forget that you can also buy wool products from second-hand shops as well. This limits the demand for more wool and wool production. You can even find second-hand or deadstock fabric if you’re looking to sew with wool.

What types of wool are the least sustainable or ethical?

The types of wool you generally want to avoid are those that are not traceable.  If you can’t trace the fiber to its source, it’s much less likely to be sustainably produced because it’s likely trying to hide something. There are also certain types of wool that are known for their less-than-ethical practices with animals.

• Unregulated or Non-Certified Wool: Wool produced without certifications or traceability mechanisms may lack transparency in terms of farming and processing practices. This lack of accountability makes it difficult to ensure sustainable and ethical production standards.

• Wool Blends with Synthetic Fibers: Blending wool with synthetic fibers, such as polyester, reduces the overall sustainability of the fabric. Synthetic fibers have a significant environmental impact due to their reliance on non-renewable resources and it prevents the wool from being biodegradable or recyclable.
• Angora Wool: Angora wool has faced ethical concerns in the past due to issues related to animal welfare. Specifically, unethical practices have been associated with the plucking or shearing of Angora rabbits. There is currently very little oversight in angora rabbit wool production, so until there are more effective standards and certifications in place, it’s best to avoid angora wool.
• Conventional Merino Wool: Some conventional Merino wool production has faced criticism for certain practices, such as mulesing. Supporting non-mulesed or animal-friendly alternatives is crucial for promoting ethical merino wool.