Is Rayon Fabric More Sustainable Than Polyester?

You’ve probably heard that polyester and other types of synthetic fabrics score pretty low on environmental sustainability. In comes rayon (or you might have heard the term viscose). This is a synthetic fiber that can do a lot of the same things as polyester, but it’s made from natural sources. Does that make it a more sustainable option?

Rayon is not always a more sustainable option than polyester. The worst types of viscose rayon are just as bad and arguably worse than polyester material when it comes to the environment. However, there have been recent developments within the rayon manufacturing process that make it much more sustainable if you’re careful about what type of rayon you are purchasing.

When it comes to sustainability, there is never just one answer. There is always going to be a spectrum that makes some types of fabric better or worse than others. In polyester, there is the cheapest plastic-like fabric you can find, but then there is also polyester made from recycled plastic. Similarly, some rayon is made from cutting down protected forests, while some is made using much more sustainable tree farms.

What is polyester?

Polyester fabric is a synthetic textile made from petroleum-based polymers. Polyester production heavily relies on non-renewable fossil fuels.

Despite its reputation for being low quality, most polyester is actually quite durable, with wrinkle resistance and quick-drying properties. Additionally, it has good resistance to chemicals and sunlight, making it ideal for outdoor use. Advancements in technology have even allowed for the production of polyester fabric with improved breathability and moisture-wicking capabilities.

The problems with polyester

Polyester is one of the most widely used types of fiber used in garment making today. Since it’s quite cheap to produce, this type of fabric has become ubiquitous in the fashion industry. Unfortunately, polyester is known for being one of the least sustainable types of materials.

Why is polyester so bad?

• Polyester relies on non-renewable resources. As a petroleum-based synthetic material, polyester relies on fossil fuels for its production, which contributes to carbon emissions and exacerbates the issue of resource depletion.
• Polyester is not biodegradable. polyester fabric has low biodegradability, meaning it persists in the environment for hundreds of years. This leads to its accumulation in landfills, further contributing to the waste problem.
• Polyester can release microplastics into the water supply. When synthetic fibers from polyester clothes are washed, tiny microplastics are released into waterways, ultimately finding their way into oceans. These microplastics pose a threat to marine life and can enter the food chain, potentially impacting human health as well.
• The manufacturing process often has excessive chemical runoff that hurts surrounding communities. Manufacturing polyester fabric requires large amounts of energy and water, leading to high energy consumption and water waste. Furthermore, the production of polyester releases harmful pollutants and chemicals into the environment, negatively impacting both ecosystems and the health of the workers involved.

While polyester continues to be widely used, it is crucial to address these problems through initiatives like recycling, reducing consumption, and exploring alternative sustainable materials.

What is rayon?

Unlike polyester, rayon is only semi-synthetic. is derived from natural cellulose, typically obtained from wood pulp or other plant-based sources, and then undergoes a chemical process to convert the cellulose into a fiber suitable for textile production.

Rayon shares some characteristics with natural fibers such as cotton and silk. It can have a soft and smooth texture, excellent drapability, and a lustrous appearance. At the same time, the synthetic nature of rayon means it can be created to be used in a wide variety of fabrics similar to polyester.

The problems with rayon

There are many types of rayon available, but the most commonly produced rayon also tends to be the least sustainable and the least safe for workers. Some of the common problems associated with rayon fabric and production include: 

• There is an extensive chemical process that often pollutes waterways. The process of creating rayon involves chemical treatments and the use of various solvents, which can release harmful pollutants into the environment.
• It is often linked to deforestation. If the source of the wood pulp source for rayon production is not sustainable, it can contribute to deforestation and habitat destruction. This is particularly bad if the wood has been illegally sourced from protected rainforests.
• There are significant health concerns for workers and surrounding communities. There are significant health hazards associated with the chemicals used in the production of rayon. These chemicals, including carbon disulfide, sulfuric acid, and chlorine, can cause neurological and psychiatric disorders, cardiovascular issues, reproductive problems, and an increased risk of certain cancers.
• Rayon is generally a weak fabric. Rayon has a high tendency to shrink or lose shape when exposed to moisture, making it less durable compared to other fabrics. It also lacks good resilience and may easily crease or wrinkle, leading to additional maintenance and care requirements.

The benefits of rayon

Since rayon production can vary dramatically, the benefits are sometimes contradictory to the common problems. For example, rayon is renewable only if it’s sourced from sustainably grown forests. However, there have been significant advancements in rayon production technology in recent years that are worth understanding, especially when compared to polyester.

• Rayon is derived from natural resources. Since rayon is sourced from wood pulp or other plant-based materials, it makes rayon a renewable resource as long as it is sustainably sourced.
• Rayon is biodegradable. Unlike many synthetic fibers that persist in the environment for extended periods, rayon fabrics can naturally decompose over time, reducing their impact on landfills.
• Rayon is less energy-intensive to manufacture. Compared to petroleum-based synthetic fibers like polyester, rayon generally requires less energy in its production process. By using less energy, the carbon footprint associated with rayon may be relatively lower than that of certain other synthetic fabrics.
• Some types of rayon keep a circular chemical system that does not release it into communities. Efforts are being made to create rayon in a way that uses less harsh chemicals and does not release them into the surrounding environment or waterways.
• Rayon is a comfortable fabric. Unlike polyester, which tends to have a somewhat plastic-like feel, rayon is quite comfortable to wear. It’s flowy, lightweight, and breathable and usually has a soft, cotton-like texture.

The BEST of rayon compared to the BEST of polyester

The best types of rayon fabric are significantly more sustainable than the best types of polyester fabric. 

Lyocell (especially TENCEL brand lyocell) is generally considered the most sustainable type of rayon. This type of rayon uses a closed-loop process that reuses the chemicals in production to avoid chemical runoff and pollution. It also uses safer chemicals than most other kinds of rayon material.

Lyocell is also known for sourcing its base materials from sustainably grown forests with fast-growing trees, or by using recycled material, such as cotton pulp. Overall, it’s considered one of the most sustainable types of fabric, comparable to known sustainable sources, like organic cotton and linen.

On the other hand, recycled polyester (rPET) is generally considered the most sustainable type of polyester. rPET is definitely a step up from standard polyester since it doesn’t use virgin material, and it does contribute to a more circular economy in the fashion industry.  However, it still has many of the common problems associated with polyester fabric. There is still microplastic shedding, an energy-intensive manufacturing process, and the fact that the final product is not biodegradable. 

The WORST of rayon compared to the WORST of polyester

Even though the best types of rayon are quite sustainable, at its worst, the manufacturing of the material is so, so bad for the environment and the health of the people involved in its production or living near the factories. 

In my opinion, the worst types of rayon are less sustainable than the worst types of polyester.

The worst kind of rayon is made from illegally sourced trees such as protected rainforests. This is the type of environmental destruction that is on the same level as the destruction of the oil and gas industry that is necessary for producing the polymers needed for polyester manufacturing.

The reason I would call the worst rayon less sustainable than polyester has to do with its use of extremely toxic chemicals. These are the kind that can cause extreme health conditions, including nerve damage and psychiatric disorders. This causes problems not only for workers in the factories but also for the surrounding communities that rely on the waterways that are polluted by these rayon factories.

While polyester also uses toxic chemicals and pollutes waterways, it’s generally not at the same hazardous level as the worst examples of rayon production.

What rayon or polyester certifications can you look for

So, rayon fabric can be great, but it can also be the literal worst. How can you tell the difference if you want to work with and wear rayon fabric? 

First, you can opt for lyocell or modal. These types of rayon use less toxic chemicals, source more sustainable wood, and use closed-loop systems. If you can find TENCEL brand lyocell or modal, that’s even better because this brand has the highest standards for production.

The other thing you can do is look for certifications when buying rayon fabric (it may also be called viscose). Look for the Forest Stewardship Council (FSC) certification to ensure the original material has been sustainably sourced. Oeko-Tex certification ensures that the rayon producers minimize harmful chemicals, promote worker safety, and reduce the environmental impact of manufacturing the material.

If you want to use polyester, the certification for recycled polyester is known as the Global Recycled Standard (GRS). It ensures that the product meets specific criteria related to the recycled content, traceability, environmental impact, and social responsibility throughout the supply chain.