This is a continuation of the bodice sloper tutorial. The first part showed you how to make the front of your sloper using your measurements, this post will show you how to make the back. Here is part 1 of this, showing you how to make the front of the sloper template.

Part 1 of a sloper tutorial. Find instructions for the front of the sloper here

Disclaimer: I am not in any way a professional pattern maker. This is my amateur process for making a sloper that has worked to help me start creating my own patterns. If you’re a beginner at pattern making, my tutorial is a great place to start. However, if you want more precise instructions, I recommend Suzy Furrer’s Bodice Sloper class on Craftsy (not sponsored, I just legitimately found it to be useful)

Measuring and (simple) Calculations:

To make a sloper, you need a lot of body measurements. You also need to add ease so the sloper bodice isn’t completely skin tight, and divide the measurements because we’re only working with half the back (so just 1/4 of the body). I’ve created a PDF document with charts and diagrams to help you through the measurement and calculation process.

Measurement Guide PDF

Measurements that you will need:

• Neck: From the center front divot in your throat and around your neck
• Shoulder: From the base of your neck to the ball of your shoulder (or straight up from your armpit)
• Cross Front: From armpit to armpit on the front of your chest
• Cross Back: from armpit to armpit on your back
• Bust: all the way around the fullest point of your bust
• Overbust: same place as Cross Front and Cross Back, but measuring all the way around
• Empire Waist: Also called the underbust, measure around below your bust
• Waist: the smallest point of your waist, usually about 1/4 inch above the belly button
• High hip: Measure around your body at the hip bones
• Full hip: The largest measurement around your hips, thighs, and butt
• Armhole: Measure around your arm at the shoulder
• Side: from armpit to waist

You will also need to take length measurements so you know the distance between everything:

• Front length to waist: Center front length from the divot at the base of your neck down to your waist
• Front length to bust: Center front length from neck point to bust line
• Front length to cross front: Center front length from neck point to cross front line
• Back length to waist: Center back length from the base of your neck to the waist
• Neck to bust point: Length from the neck diagonal to the fullest bust point (usually your nipple)
• Bust point width: Horizontal distance between the fullest bust points (between your nipples)
• Waist to empire waist: Center front length from waist up to empire waist
• Waist to high hip: Center front length from waist to high hip
• Waist to full hip: Center front length from waist to full hip

After you have your measurements, add them to the chart below. First you’ll add ease to each of your measurements. Then you’ll divide the resulting number (since we’re only working with half the back torso) to get your final length. Use the numbers inthe “final length” column while your going through my tutorial.

Step 1

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draw your back grid

The only part of the back grid that is different from the front is the Back Neck line. This should be slightly higher than the Front Neck line. Then draw a vertical line straight down to be the center back of the sloper.

Step 2

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draw your center back neckline

Draw a dot on the intersection of the center back and back neck gridlines. Then add your shoulder point 1 inch up from the back neck line, and the Neck (back) calculation for the width of the neckline. Then draw a line connecting the dots.

Step 3

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draw your back shoulder and dart points

Divide your neck (front) calculation in 2. Then make a horizontal guideline that distance down from your shoulder point.

Add 1/2 inch to your shoulder measurement. Then draw a straight line using that length from the should point to the guideline.

Then add two points that are 1/2 inch apart at the center of the shoulder. These will be for the shoulder dart.

Step 4

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draw your back waist

Add 1 inch to your waist (back) calculation. Then draw a point on the waist gridline.

Step 5

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draw you waist dart point

The back will have center back contouring and a waist dart. Together, these must equal 1 inch. Place the back contour dot 3/8 inch from the center back. Then place two more dots in the center of the waist. These two dots should be 5/8 inch apart.

Step 6

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draw your center back seam

Draw straight lines connecting the center back dot the the cross back and the full hip grid lines at the center back. This is your new center back seam.

Step 7

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draw your waist dart

Draw a dart on the high hip centered underneath the two waist dart points and draw the legs of the dart.

Step 8

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draw a line from waist dart to shoulder dart points

Connect the waist dart to the shoulder dart dots. This will be one leg of both darts.

Step 9

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draw waist dart legs

Draw a guideline straight up from the high hip point. Then connect the other leg of the waist dart where this guideline intersects with the first leg.

Step 10

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draw shoulder dart legs

Draw the second leg of the shoulder dart in. This dart is 4 inches long, so draw a 4 inch leg wherever is connects with the first one.

Step 11

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draw your high hip and full hip points

Add your high hip (back) and full hip (back) calculations. Remember, the back contouring goes through the high hip line. Measure your high hip from that point. Then connect the dots for the side of the sloper

Step 12

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draw your bust point

Add the Bust (back) calculation. The dart takes up space on the bust line and will be folded out. Measure the distance lost in the dart and add it to the bust measurement before making your dot.

Step 13

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draw your side length

Draw a vertical guideline through the bust point. The use your Side length to connect the waist point to the guideline.

Step 14

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draw your cross back and arm hole

Add the Cross back calculation. Then draw in the armhole. Measure this armhole line and compare it to the armhole (back) calculation. You want your drawn line to be equal to or greater than the armhole (back) calculation.

Step 15

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true the side and shoulder with the front of the pattern

Now that you’ve finished the basic sloper. you need to make sure it matches the front. Place the side seam of the front on top of the back (with the front dart folded out) and make whatever adjustments you need for the sides of the front and back to match.

Then line up the shoulder seams and armholes to make sure there is a smooth curve from one piece to the next. There whould only be minor adjustments necessary for this part (1/4 inch or less)

Step 16

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add seam allowance

Add seam allowance to your pieces and cut them out with muslin. Use a zipper for the back since you won’t be able to fit this over your head. To sew the darts, I sewed each of them to a point 1/2 inch away from the bust point.

When you try it on, it should fit your body measurements pretty much perfectly.

Don’t forget to also follow part one of this tutorial for the front of the bodice

Finished!

The post Tutorial: How to Make a Bodice Sloper to Design Your Own Patterns (the back) appeared first on Fabricated Closet.

This tutorial will walk you through step by step how to take your measurements and how to use those to draw out the front of your sloper. Check out Part 2 of this series to learn how to make the back of your sloper.

Part 2 of a sloper tutorial. Find instructions for the back of the sloper here

This is Part 1 of a two part tutorial. Find instructions for the back of the sloper here.

Disclaimer: I am not in any way a professional pattern maker. This is my amateur process for making a sloper that has worked to help me start creating my own patterns. If you’re a beginner at pattern making, my tutorial is a great place to start. However, if you want more precise instructions, I recommend Suzy Furrer’s Bodice Sloper class on Craftsy (not sponsored, I just legitimately found it to be useful)

Measuring and (simple) Calculations:

To make a sloper, you need a lot of body measurements. You also need to add ease so the sloper bodice isn’t completely skin tight, and divide the measurements because we’re only working with half the front (so just 1/4 of the body). I’ve created a PDF document with charts and diagrams to help you through the measurement and calculation process.

Measurement Guide PDF

Measurements that you will need:

• Neck: From the center front divot in your throat and around your neck
• Shoulder: From the base of your neck to the ball of your shoulder (or straight up from your armpit)
• Cross Front: From armpit to armpit on the front of your chest
• Cross Back: from armpit to armpit on your back
• Bust: all the way around the fullest point of your bust
• Overbust: same place as Cross Front and Cross Back, but measuring all the way around
• Empire Waist: Also called the underbust, measure around below your bust
• Waist: the smallest point of your waist, usually about 1/4 inch above the belly button
• High hip: Measure around your body at the hip bones
• Full hip: The largest measurement around your hips, thighs, and butt
• Armhole: Measure around your arm at the shoulder
• Side: from armpit to waist

You will also need to take length measurements so you know the distance between everything:

• Front length to waist: Center front length from the divot at the base of your neck down to your waist
• Front length to bust: Center front length from neck point to bust line
• Front length to cross front: Center front length from neck point to cross front line
• Back length to waist: Center back length from the base of your neck to the waist
• Neck to bust point: Length from the neck diagonal to the fullest bust point (usually your nipple)
• Bust point width: Horizontal distance between the fullest bust points (between your nipples)
• Waist to empire waist: Center front length from waist up to empire waist
• Waist to high hip: Center front length from waist to high hip
• Waist to full hip: Center front length from waist to full hip

After you have your measurements, add them to the chart below. First you’ll add ease to each of your measurements. Then you’ll divide the resulting number (since we’re only working with half the front torso) to get your final length. Use the numbers inthe “final length” column while your going through my tutorial.

Step 1

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Make your grid

Use your length measurements to create horizontal lines for the front of your bodice spaced out according to your measurements. Then draw a vertical line straight down to represent the center front.

Step 2

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Set the center neckline point

Place a point on the center front line that is 3/4″ below the front neck line.

Step 3

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set the shoulder point and draw the neckline

Draw in your shoulder point. Use the Neck (front) calculation to go in from the center front and then up the same distance.

Then draw a curved line connecting these two points to create your front neckline.

Step 4

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draw the shoulder length and darts

Draw a guideline halfway between the shoulder point and the front neck gridline.

Then take your shoulder measurement and add 1/2 inch because we are adding a dart. Draw a straight line that length connecting your shoulder point to the guideline.

Then halfway on the line add two points 1/2 inch apart. These are the points for the shoulder dart.

Step 5

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draw the high bust point and shoulder dart

Draw a guideline using the Neck to Bust Point measurement. It should measure from the center front neck line to the bust line. This is the high bust point to use for the upper darts in the sloper.

To double check this placement is accurate, divide the Bust Point Width measurement by 2. Then draw a horizontal line on the bust guideline using that length. It should more-or-less meet up with the high bust point. If it is more than 1/2″ apart, draw a new high bust point on the bust line that is halfway in-between.

After you make your high bust point, draw the legs of the shoulder dart to this point.

Step 6

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draw the low bust point

Draw the low bust point 1 inch below the high bust point.

Step 7

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draw the waist point

Take your Waist (front) measurement and add 1 inch for a dart. Then mark this distance on the waist gridline.

Step 8

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draw the waist dart point

Draw a guideline straight down from the low bust point. Add two dots for a dart 1/2 inch away on both sides of the line.

Then draw another point on the high hip gridline where it intersects with your guideline.

Step 9

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lower the waist to complete the dart

Make another guideline that is 1/2 inch down from the waist. Draw two more dots on this guideline directly below the waist dots. Then draw the legs of your dart connecting all the dots.

Step 10

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draw your high hip and full hip points

Mark the high hip (front) and full hip (front) dots on their respective gridlines. Then connect the dots to the waist dot.

Step 11

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draw your bust point and side length

Mark the Bust (front) point on the bust gridline, and draw a vertical guideline intersecting this point.

Look at your Cup size to determine your bust dart width. Add this to your Side length. Draw a line using this length connecting the waist to the vertical guideline.

Step 12

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draw your side dart

Draw your side dart (using the length of your cup size), with points an equal distance from the bust grid line. Then, connect those points to the high bust point.

Step 13

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draw your cross front and armhole

Draw in your Cross front point. As you can see, the shoulder dart goes through this gridline and will be folded out in the final bodice. Add the space the shoulder dart takes up before placing your cross front dot. Then draw in your armhole line.

Step 14

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draw your armhole dart

In the deepest part of the armhole curve, place two dart point 1/2″ apart and connect them to the high bust point. This dart is mainly used to keep armholes from gaping open on sleeveless shirts.

Measure this armhole line (skipping the space between the dart points) and compare it to the armhole (front) calculation. You want your drawn line to be equal to or greater than the armhole (front) calculation.

Step 15

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fold the darts to true the side

After you’re drawn out your front bodice, fold the darts and draw a straight line (or just cut straight through) to true the sides. This creates that bump that you always see on sewing patterns where there are darts.

Step 16

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add seam allowance – continue to part 2 for the back

Add seam allowance all along the edge (except for the center front, since that will be on the fold). Continue to part 2 for the back of the sloper.

Once you finish the back bodice, sew up your sloper in muslin (or any test fabric) to check the fit and adjust as necessary)

The post Tutorial: How to Make a Bodice Sloper to Design Your Own Patterns (The front) appeared first on Fabricated Closet.

The good news is that modern sewing patterns make it a lot easier to pick fabrics that work well with the design. Most of the information you need is written in plain English (or French) on the back of the pattern, and what’s not there can be inferred from the line drawings and some basic knowledge about the drape of different types of fabric.

1. Look at your pattern envelope

If you’re new to sewing, all that information written on the back of a pattern envelope might look like a whole lot of nonsense. But it’s actually got a lot of pretty useful information, including a little section labeled fabric suggestions.

This is the first place you should look to decide which fabric to use for a pattern, since these are the specific fabrics that have been recommended by the pattern makers. If there are any photos of the finished pattern on the front of the envelope, it will be made with one (or multiple) of these fabrics. 

Now, some people will tell you that you need to stick to the specific fabrics listed on the pattern envelope. In my opinion, it’s not necessary to be that strict with your fabric choice. If you understand that type of fabric that’s being recommended, it’s okay to branch into other fabrics with a similar weight and drape.

For example, if the pattern recommends crepe de chine and charmeuse, you need a fabric that is lightweight and has significant drape. In this case, I may use a viscose rayon since I know it has similar properties.

By grasping the nature of the recommended materials—whether they offer drape, structure, or stretch—you can make informed choices. It’s about matching the essence and not just the names on the envelope.

2. Understand the drape and weight needed for the design

Understanding the drape and weight are the most important parts of choosing a fabric. In addition to looking at the fabric recommendations, you also want to look at the photos and lineart on the pattern envelope to help you understand what type of fabric is best.

Looking at the photos, try to ignore the pretty colors and patterns used, and look only at the structure of the garment. Your goal is to determine the general weight and drape of the material in the image and compare that to the fabric that you intend to use.

You can also examine a pattern envelope’s line art. Illustrations that feature more drape lines suggest a need for a fabric that can cascade effectively, meaning you will need a reasonably flowy fabric for that pattern.

Selecting the right level of drape and weight ensures not only a flattering fit to the body but also a manageable sewing process. With your fabric choice aligning closely with your design’s requirements,you will pave the way for a polished and professional final piece.

3. For knits: test the stretch of the fabric

Knit fabric can be a bit more difficult to get right, since it needs to be stretchy enough for the pattern to work. Luckily, most knit patterns come with a stretch guide on the envelope to help you pick an appropriate fabric.

Unfortunately, if you’re buying fabric online, it’s difficult to know how stretchy a fabric is. However, some retailers will give you a percentage of stretch to help you choose your fabric. If a fabric is described as having a “50% stretch,” this means it can stretch to 1.5 times its original length without distorting.

You can measure the difference in the stretch guide to get the percentage you want the fabric to stretch. If no percentage is given online, something described as low stretch fabric will typically be less than 25%, moderate stretch will be around 25%-75%, and high stretch (or high performance) will be 75%+.

You’ll also need to pay attention to the 2-way (one direction) vs. 4-way stretch (two direction or all direction). Most knit patterns only need to stretch across the width of the fabric, but occasionally you’ll come across a pattern that says it’s made for 4-way stretch knits only (usually tight knits and athletic clothing). In these cases, you’ll want to make sure the pattern stretches enough lengthwise as well.

The post Choosing the Right Fabric for your Sewing Pattern appeared first on Fabricated Closet.

You are not a failure! The ratings on sewing patterns can be quite deceptive, especially to anyone who is just starting their sewing journey. For example, a lot of ‘easy’ sewing patterns call for knit fabrics. Well, most types of jersey or knit fabrics are notoriously difficult to sew on a sewing machine. You have to learn how to use that type of material before you’ll have success with the pattern.

When it comes to finding sewing patterns that are easy for you, as a beginner sewist, there are some details you can glean from the pattern and envelope. Sticking to simple designs, with limited skills necessary is part of it. But paying attention to the fabric and fit of the garment will also help you finally have success on your early sewing projects.

Ignore the easy rating on the sewing pattern envelope

Before I get into how to find easy patterns, I want to address the ratings you see of pattern envelopes. Usually, when something is rated easy, it just means that the pattern has fewer steps or few pieces in its construction. 

While this can mean that the sewing pattern is generally easier than something that is more complex, it doesn’t take into account the type of fabric that’s used or some difficult or confusing construction methods that are part of the instructions.

Knit patterns are notorious for doing this. I’ll frequently see ‘just for knits’ patterns labeled as easy. However, if you’ve never worked with stretch fabric before, I can guarantee you that this pattern will be challenging, even if it’s quite simple in construction.

So, what I’m saying is, most of the time you should ignore the easy rating. If something is ‘easy’ and you struggle with the pattern, that’s normal. Do not feel bad about it! 

Use the following list to find patterns that are actually easy, or at least within the realm of your ability.

1. How many pieces does the pattern use?

The first order of business is to look at how many pieces are used to create the pattern. As a general rule, the fewer pattern pieces there are, the easier the pattern will be to make because there are limited details.

How do you know how many pattern pieces there are? Sometimes this is listed in the pattern envelope, but this number would include the number of pieces for all of the styles in the pattern, so it’s not usually all that helpful even if it’s included. 

A better way is to look at the line art on the envelope to get an idea of the pattern pieces. If that’s too complicated, the instruction sheet on the inside will let you know. Look at the diagram with the labeled pattern pieces and count the pieces needed for your version of the pattern.

Generally, less than 6 or 7 pieces would be considered a simple style. The baseline for a basic shirt will be 4 or 5 pattern pieces (the front, back, front facing, back facing, and sleeves).

2. What skills do you need to complete the pattern?

The next thing you need to consider is how many sewing skills will be involved with the pattern. Do you need to attach sleeves? Does it have a zipper? Buttons? Elastic? Have you ever sewn a facing before? Is it all straight lines (like for a tote bag or apron) or do you need to sew on a curve (for most garments)? Does it have a straight hem or a curved hem?

Try to introduce only one or two new skills with each new pattern that you make. This way you won’t overwhelm yourself with too many new skills at the same time.

As a general rule:

• Elastic is easier than zippers or buttons
• A straight hem is easier than a curved hem
• Sewing a sleeve flat is easier than a set-in sleeve
• V-necks are more difficult than boatnecks
• Darts are easier than princess seams

3. What kind of fabric will you need to use?

The other part of sewing that is often overlooked by beginners is the role of fabric. Just like you need to get to know your sewing machine and learn new sewing techniques, you need to get used to working with different types of fabric. Some materials are just significantly more difficult to use than others.

In general, you want to start with more structured fabric, like cotton broadcloth or poplin. If you are trying to figure out if a pattern is easy, look at the recommended fabrics and ask yourself ‘Have I used this type of fabric before?’ If you haven’t, the pattern may be more challenging for you.

As you get more experience, you can, and should, challenge yourself and move into using flowy, thick, shiny, slippery, velvety, and stretchy fabrics. But if you start with any of these, you are likely to be extremely frustrated during the sewing process.

4. How much fabric will you need to use?

If a pattern calls for yards and yards of fabric, it can end up being a lot to handle when you’re sewing. Too much fabric makes it easier to get confused or lost when you’re trying to put everything together, and can also feel like a bigger disappointment or waste if the final project doesn’t come out as expected. Try to start with patterns that use less than 3 yards of fabric to complete. 

5. How fitted is the garment?

Loose-fitting garments will be so much easier to sew than tight-fitting or semi-fitted clothing. There is a lot more wiggle room in getting seams and measurements wrong when dealing with a simple tunic shirt or dress, than with one that you want to have a perfect fit. This is also why pants are not usually the best first-project to sew, since they generally require a more precise fit.

As you get better at sewing on the seam line and understanding your measurements and the ease of garments, you can move to make clothes that have a tighter fit.

6. Avoid vintage patterns

If you are just starting to sew your own clothing, it’s best to avoid old vintage patterns. These patterns tend to come with the assumption that you already know a lot of skills that used to be common knowledge. There also might not be any explanation for symbols and notations that you’ll find on the pattern, and you might have to add in your own seam allowance.

Overall, it can be quite confusing for a new sewist. Wait until you’ve got a few simpler outfits under your belt before moving to the vintage sewing patterns.

The post How to Know if a Sewing Pattern is Easy Enough For You to Use appeared first on Fabricated Closet.

That means that sewing patterns can look pretty confusing right off the bat. My goal with this article is to go over each part of the pattern instructions so that you know what they mean and how to interpret the symbols and terminology. By the end, I hope you have the confidence you need to get started on that first sewing project.

As a note: I’ll go over the basic elements that you’ll find on the outside of a sewing pattern envelope in this post, but check out my other post for a more in-depth analysis of reading the envelope and choosing a sewing pattern.

Step 1: Choosing a size

When you pick up a sewing pattern envelope, the first place you want to check is the pattern size guide. This can be found towards the top of that wall of text, or it will be on the flap of the envelope (McCalls, Vogue, and Butterick patterns usually put it on the flap). 

On this chart, you’ll see the sizes of the garment along the top with the bust, waist, and hips measurements listed in the rows underneath. You will want to measure yourself around your bust, the smallest part of your waist, and the fullest part of your hips (this may actually be the fullest part of your buttocks, rather than your hips, but wherever the measurement is largest).

It’s common for body measurements to fall into different sizes. If this is your first time using a sewing pattern, use the largest size that your measurements fit into, rounding up to the nearest size. Alternatively, you can use the most fitted part of the garment you’re making. For example, if you’re making an A-line skirt where the only fitted part is the waistband, you would use your waist measurement.

There are more exact ways to choose the right size for your body, but if you’re a beginner sewist go based on the chart provided. If you’re interested, you can read more about other methods to find the right pattern size.

When choosing your pattern size, you always want to base it on your measurements. Sewing pattern sizes do not match up with commercial clothing sizes, so never choose your size based on what you look for in clothing retail stores. Sizing is also not consistent across all sewing pattern brands, so don’t assume that you’ll be a size 12 in McCalls just because that’s what fits in Simplicity patterns.

Step 2: Choosing your fabric

The next step is to choose what kind of fabric to get and how much of it you need. Different types and styles of garments will need different kinds of fabric to look and act like they are supposed to. To help you choose the right material, sewing patterns will include a suggested fabric section on the back of the envelope (usually this part will be right at the top of that big wall of text).

If you’re new to sewing, stick to the recommendations you see on the back of the envelope. However, once you have a better understanding of fabric weight and drape, you can play around a little bit and use similar types of fabric even if they aren’t explicitly mentioned.

How much fabric to get?

Fabric is generally sold by the yard. When you buy it, you need to know how many yards to purchase so that you will have enough to complete your pattern. Since this is such an important measurement, the back of the pattern envelope has this information for you.

Remember how you chose your size in step 1? You’re going to use that to figure out how much fabric you need. Start by looking at the column of the chart for your chosen size. Then scan down until you get to the style you want to make (since most patterns include more than one).

For example, say you are size 12 and want to make the style B in the pattern. Scan down the column and you’ll see that there are two numbers. These let you know how much fabric you need in yards (for the English side of the pattern, the French or Spanish side is in meters). 

So why are there two numbers here? Standard bolts of fabric are generally sold in two sizes, 45-inches and 60-inches (115cm or 150cm). You will need more yards of fabric if you get something that is shorter. So when you purchase your fabric, always check the width and get the amount of fabric you need according to that.

(Note: Sometimes the fabric will be approximately 45 or 60 inches, not exactly. It’s common to see 43-inch fabric or 57-inches. That’s still fine as long as it’s approximately 45 or 60-inches)

• Learn more about how to make sure you get enough fabric for your sewing pattern

Step 3: Line art and pattern pieces

Now it’s time to open up your pattern and take a look at the little instruction sheet or booklet that’s included. This gives you information about which pattern pieces you need to cut out, cutting layouts, the key for symbols you’ll see, and the instructions for constructing your garment.

The first section of the instructions includes the detailed line art of what the finished garments will look like and an overview of the individual pattern pieces that you’ll need to cut out and sew together. Each piece is labeled, and you’ll see a list including which pattern pieces are needed for each style. 

Make a note of which pieces you need. These pieces will all be on the tissue paper that is folded up into the pattern envelope. Unfold that and cut or trace the necessary pattern pieces. Make sure to pay attention to which size you need, since most sewing patterns come with multiple nested sizes.

If you’re tracing the pattern, make sure to trace all of the symbols and markings you see on the pattern pieces. You’ll also want to label them so you don’t get the pieces mixed up and copy information like how many pieces to cut and which pieces need interfacing.

• Learn more about tracing methods for sewing patterns

Reading the tissue pattern pieces

When copying and reading your pattern pieces, there are a lot of notations and symbols used that are important to the sewing process. Some of them are easy to understand, you just need to make sure you take note of them. Others might be confusing if you’ve never sewn with a pattern before. 

These are some of the basic notations you should copy down on you’re pattern pieces:

• The number and label of each pattern piece: Always copy the number and label of each pattern piece so you don’t get them mixed up
• How many pieces to cut: Do you cut 2? Cut 1 on the fold? Cut 7? Write it down because this information is not written down on the instruction sheet.
• Which pieces need interfacing: facings, waistbands, and collars often need interfacing. This will be noted next to the number of each piece you need to cut.
• Hem allowances: At the bottom of each piece, it will let you know how big of a hem is accounted for in the design. This is often different from the standard seam allowance.
• Seam allowances if they differ from the main pattern: Make a note if the seam allowance next to the neckline or other area is different than the standard used for the rest of the pattern.

These are some of the basic markings to make sure you copy and understand:

• Grainline: This is the arrow that goes the length of the pattern piece. It should always be exactly parallel to the lengthwise side of your fabric.
• Cutting on the fold: This lets you know this pattern piece needs to be cut with this edge on the fold of the fabric.
• Notches: These are the little triangles that help you line up two pieces that need to be sewn together.
• Darts: These are the triangle or tapered marks that appear generally around the bustline and waist of clothing.
• Pocket markings: If your pattern has pockets, the corners will be noted with little circles to let you know where the pocket should be placed.
• Circle, square, or triangle symbols: These are referred to in the pattern instructions to help make them clearer and easier to follow.

For more thorough explanations of all the pattern markings and notations you’ll see, check out my article which includes pictures that you can reference if you’re confused about anything.

Step 4: Understanding cutting layouts

The next section on the instruction sheet is the cutting layout. This part is meant to help you organize your fabric and cut it out without using too much fabric. The area will give you cutting layouts for 45-inch and 60-inch fabric for all the design styles included in the pattern packet.

When you look at the cutting layout diagrams, you’ll notice that most patterns have you cut out the pattern pieces on your fabric folded in half lengthwise, since most pattern pieces are cut in multiples of two. Some need to be cut on the folded side (the pattern pieces will be labeled), and some do not.

Generally, you don’t have to follow the cutting layouts exactly, but they are good guidelines if you’re not quite sure how everything will fit onto your length of fabric. 

• Learn more about cutting layouts and when it’s okay to ignore them

Step 5: Cutting notes and sewing assumptions

The next section on the pattern instruction sheet will include the basic information that you want to know before cutting your fabric and starting to construct your handmade garment. The specific information you find will be slightly different depending on the brand of sewing pattern you’re using. 

Typically, in these sections you will find:

• A key to symbols used on the pattern pieces and in the instructions
• Basic instructions for how to use the shorten and lengthen lines on pattern pieces
• Tips for how to read the pattern-cutting layout
• Diagrams for how to clip curves and corners
• A basic glossary for terms that are used in the sewing directions (these terms will be bolded or italicized when used)
• And most importantly, the seam allowance that’s included (usually this is ⅝-inch)

What is a seam allowance?

The seam allowance is the amount of buffer space between the edge of the fabric and where you sew the pieces together. You can’t sew directly on the edge of the fabric, there always needs to be at least a little extra space along the edges. So we purposefully add a consistent amount of seam allowance around the edges so that we will sew the garments together in the right spot. Modern commercial patterns will do this for us, so we just need to check how much space they already added.

Always double-check your pattern instructions to see what the seam allowance is for your pattern. For most commercial patterns, it’s ⅝”, but some independent patterns use ½” and some vintage patterns don’t include a seam allowance at all. You’ll have to draw it in for yourself before cutting the fabric.

You also want to check your individual pattern pieces around the neckline, armholes, and waistband. Sometimes these thin areas will have ⅜” seam allowance written directly on the pattern piece. In these cases, it will override the general ⅝” on the specific seams where it’s noted.

Step 6: Sewing directions

It’s always a good idea to look through your sewing pattern directions before starting to cut or sew anything. The first thing you need to look for is which steps you need to follow for the design you are making.

Most patterns will include at least two or three designs in one envelope. They will have similar construction methods, but every once in a while, they will do something different. Throughout the pattern directions, you’ll see “view A” or “view B, C” or something similar. This tells you which steps to follow based on which variation of the design you are making. You may want to go through and highlight the steps that pertain to your chosen design if you keep getting confused while looking through directions.

Otherwise, it’s a matter of following the steps until you’ve finished your piece of clothing. Most modern patterns do a pretty good job of showing what needs to be done with pictures.

I’ve created a basic guide that explains common steps that you’ll find in pattern directions if you are confused. 

However, all patterns are unique and you might need to ask a real person if you’re confused. Consider joining an online sewing group or forum and taking a picture of the step if you can’t figure out what you’re supposed to do.

The post Sewing 101: How to Read Sewing Patterns appeared first on Fabricated Closet.

If you’ve never followed sewing pattern instructions before, they can be fairly confusing. It’s not as straightforward as attaching one piece to the next. There are always little steps in between that can make the instructions difficult to follow for beginners.

All patterns will include unique instructions for that particular garment. However, the types of steps you will see are very often the same or very similar in every pattern. You can learn to understand the symbols used in the instruction sheet to make the actual step-by-step instructions easier to follow.

This article will go over many of the basic instructions you’ll find in sewing patterns and how to follow them.

• Learn more about how to read a sewing pattern envelope

Read through the pattern instructions first

First and foremost, it’s a good idea to always read through the directions in your pattern before getting started on any new project. This will give you a better understanding of how the garment is put together and what skills you will need to use to get it done. If there’s a skill you haven’t done before, you may want to consider making a mock-up version first so that you can practice it.

Reading through the pattern first also gives you a chance to highlight the important parts and give yourself some notes. For example, if you want to add a pocket to a design, writing down where in the pattern you want to add the pocket will remind you when the time comes. I’ve definitely made the mistake of not making notes and forgetting to make the edits or changes I intended.

Know which view you’re sewing

Most sewing patterns have multiple styles or designs included in the same envelope. When looking at the directions, you only have to follow the steps that pertain to the view you’re making. So, if you’re making view A, you can ignore the parts that are written for view B, C, etc.

Reading through the pattern first will also give you a good idea of the flow of the pattern instructions. You can highlight the parts that you need to follow for your particular design and quickly skip over the parts needed for a different view.

Common pattern instructions and what they mean

Every sewing pattern will have unique instructions based on the specific garment you are trying to make. It will be your job to try to work through the steps on your own and figure out how to put it together (you can do it!). 

However, there are some common steps you’ll find in a lot of pattern directions. I’ve compiled some of those here to hopefully help you better understand the sewing pattern you’re working with.

The pattern directions key

The first thing to take note of is the key at the beginning of the instructions. This will help you know when the pattern pieces in the images are showing the front side, the reverse side, or when interfacing is used on a piece. Keeping this key in mind will keep you oriented when following the pattern directions.

Staystitching

It’s common to see staystitching as one of the first steps in the pattern directions. With staystitching, you are sewing through one, single layer of fabric to stabilize the area. Sew through the layer as normal with a (2mm to 3mm stitch length) just inside the normal seam line of the fabric.

You’ll do this on areas where the pattern piece is curved or diagonal (such as necklines, waistlines, or armholes) because the fabric in these areas has a greater tendency to stretch or warp out of place.

Facing

This isn’t so much a skill as a basic definition. When I first tried to teach myself to sew and picked up a sewing pattern, I had no clue what a facing was so I figured I’d include it here since it confused me as a beginner.

A facing is a reinforced pattern piece (meaning it has interfacing) that is sewn to the neckline or waistband to strengthen the area and enclose the raw edges of the fabric. It’s the narrow flap of fabric that’s on the inside of many different types of woven garment necklines.

Understitching 

Understitching is difficult to describe, but it’s a skill that is very useful for keeping facings tucked under the fabric so they are invisible when you wear it. With understitching you are sewing the facing to the seam allowance. 

After you sew the facing seam and clip the curves, maneuver the seam allowance from the neckline so that it’s underneath just the facing and sew just inside the seamline. Make sure you do not catch the front of the garment in your stitches.

Curve clipping

Whenever you sew a curved section of a garment, you need to clip the curves so that the seam will sit flat. There is usually a little diagram earlier on in the pattern instructions to illustrate what is meant by curve clipping.

Top stitching

Top stitching is exactly what it sounds like. This is when you stitch over the top of the garment at ⅛ to ¼ inch in from the seamline. It’s used to reinforce seams (like pockets and shoulders) or as a decorative addition to designs.

Corner clipping

This is something you need to do anytime you sew a squared-off point on your garment. You need to clip the corner of the material off as close to the seam line as you dare without cutting it. If you don’t, you will not be able to achieve a crisp corner when you turn the area right-side out because there will be too much fabric in the way.

Gathering stitches

In pattern instructions, gathering stitches are usually illustrated with two lines of parallel stitches on a pattern piece. To make gathering stitches yourself, switch your machine to the widest stitch setting (usually it will be 4mm or 5mm). Then make two parallel lines, just as illustrated. After the gathering stitches are in place, pull on the thread ends to bunch up the fabric evenly along the seam until it’s the correct length for your pattern.

Sleeve ease

When you sew sleeves to a bodice, they need to maintain a curve so that they will comfortably fit around your shoulders. This is where sleeve easing comes in. Add gathering stitches between the little dots on either side of the sleeve head. When you pull the stitches, don’t pull it enough to gather the fabric, instead allow it to curve slightly, but not enough to cause wrinkles.

This is a skill that I had a lot of trouble with when I began sewing (still do sometimes). So don’t be too frustrated with yourself if you find it difficult to ease a sleeve without causing any gathers.

Some patterns will include this step, and some patterns will assume you already know you’re supposed to do this. So if your sewing pattern does not include this step and the sleeve head is too long to fit the armhole seam, then you need to ease it.

Narrow hem and double-turn hem

A narrow hem and a double-turn hem are very similar concepts. They both involve you folding over the bottom of your garment (skirt, pants, shirt, etc.) and tucking the raw edges underneath so they don’t fray.

For a narrow hem, you’ll generally turn up the seam allowance at the bottom of the garment. Then you’ll turn the raw edge underneath, halving the size of the hem.

For a double-turn hem, you will turn up the seam allowance. Then you will turn it up again to hide the raw edges.

Elastic casing

A casing is a tunnel that you create with your fabric to hold elastic. You make this by folding over the fabric and stitching along the bottom to create a flat tube, leaving an opening along the seam. Then you use a safety pin to insert the elastic into the tube and pull it through.

Basting stitches 

Basting stitches are used to hold something in place before you sew it down. This is used as a temporary measure when multiple layers need to be sewn together. For example, if the top of a pocket needs to be sewn to a waistband, you’ll usually baste it to the top edge of the pants first.

Darts

When you make darts, you want to fold the fabric to match up the two sides of the triangle. Sew along the dart line from the edge of the fabric up to the dot at the tip of the dart. Then press your darts down (for bust darts) or towards the center of the body (for waist darts).

What’s not included in the sewing pattern instructions

Sewing patterns are not always written with beginners in mind. They often assume the person using the pattern has a basic understanding of clothing construction and sewing terminology. These are some concepts that are important to understand when sewing that aren’t always explained in the directions.

What is a seam allowance?

The sewing pattern instructions will tell you how much seam allowance is included, but it doesn’t tell you what a seam allowance is. This was one of those sewing terms that I did not know the first time I opened a pattern and ended up ignoring it because I did not understand it.

The seam allowance is the amount of buffer space between the edge of your fabric piece and the stitching line (because you can’t stitch directly on the edge of the fabric). When sewing your pattern pieces together you need to sew with the exact right amount of seam allowance for everything to piece together properly. 

For most patterns, the seam allowance is ⅝”, and the pattern instructions will give you this number. Now you know what that means.

You need to finish your seams

If you’re using a woven fabric, the edges of the pattern pieces will fray over time. If you leave these edges raw, they will eventually fray to the point that your garment will start to fall apart at the seams. Every time after you sew a seam, you need to finish the seams to cover the fraying ends and prevent them from unraveling.

There are many ways you can go about finishing your seams, it’s a whole topic on its own so I won’t go into detail here. If you have a serger (or overlock) using that to finish the seams is the easiest and fastest. However, if you don’t you can switch to a zigzag stitch on your sewing machine, and use an overlock presser foot to get similar results on your sewing machine.

Press your seams between each step

If you want your finished garment to look professional when you’re finished, you need to press each seam as you go. Don’t wait until you finish to press everything because it will be too late for any seam that you’ve crossed over or covered with a facing or hem. 

The pattern instructions don’t tell you this because it’s something they assume you already know. After you sew a seam, always finish it and press it.

The post Sewing 101: Following Sewing Pattern Instructions appeared first on Fabricated Closet.

In this article, I will be going through all of the markings, symbols, and notations that you’ll find on most modern sewing patterns. I’ll explain what each of the symbols are and what they mean as simply as possible so hopefully you will be able to understand even if you are a complete beginner.

• Learn more with my beginner’s guide to reading sewing patterns

Symbols you’ll find on the pattern

There are so many symbols and notations on sewing patterns that can all be quite overwhelming when you first start sewing. Some of them are self-explanatory, while others are kind of confusing. I’m going to go over all of them here so that you have the ultimate list you can reference if you need to know what something on your sewing pattern means.

Single Notch

A notch mark is there to help you line up two pattern pieces. For example, when you sew the front piece of a shirt to the back, you’ll see a notch along the side to help you line up the two pieces correctly. Notches are especially helpful along curved seams since the fabric can stretch a little along the bias, making it difficult to line pieces up without the help of the notches.

Double Notch

A double notch is the same thing as a single notch, but it’s used for pieces on the back of the garment. Most often you’ll see this with sleeves. You’ll notice it has a single notch on one side of the sleeve head and a double notch on the other. This helps you stay oriented and attach the sleeves to the rest of the garment correctly (instead of accidentally putting them on backward).

Triple Notch

A triple notch means the same thing as other notches, but it’s used when you are attaching a piece to its double. You’ll see it most often when you have a seam going down the center back of the garment and you have two back panels that you need to sew together down the center.

Grainline

The grainline is used to allow you to correctly line up the pattern pieces with the gain of the fabric. When pinning the pattern pieces, you want to make sure that the arrow that denotes the grainline is directly parallel to the long edge (the selvage side) of the fabric.

• Learn more about what grainline is, why it’s important, and why you should not ignore it

Cut on fold

For pattern pieces where one exactly mirrors the other, you’ll often see the bent arrow ‘cut on fold’ mark. This means you want to fold your fabric in half when cutting and line this piece up with the folded edge. The ‘cut on fold’ symbol also doubles as a grainline mark, so these pieces will not have a separate grainline.

Little circles

You’ll see many symbols in the form of little circles, big circles, squares, triangles, and so on. The little circles are usually there to help you line up the corners of the seams. It shows you the inner point where the seam allowance ends.

On sleeve heads, the little circles tell you where to ease or gather the fabric. Since sleeves curve over the shoulders, they need more shape than the flat fabric can give. You need to add gathering stitches between the two dots and pull them just a bit to give the sleeve head some shape before sewing it to the bodice of your garment.

Large circles, squares, triangles

These are markings that are referenced in the pattern instructions. Usually, they will tell you where to add a pocket, how far to sew a seam, where to add a snap or any other design element that your pattern requires.

Buttons

The marks for buttons will be denoted with an X. If there is a line of buttons down the front of a shirt (for example) sometimes only the top button will be marked on the pattern. If that’s the case, you’ll have to measure the rest and space out the buttons yourself.

Buttonholes

Buttonholes are denoted by a long line with two perpendicular lines at the ends. This line is typically premeasured for your pattern to fit the size of the button that is recommended on the pattern envelope. So if you are changing the size of the button you’re using, be sure to change the size of the button hole as well.

Buttonhole marks are also used for areas where you create a slit for a cord or twill tape. For example, drawstring pants, or a jacket may have button hold marks for the string even though there are no buttons in the design.

Dart lines

Darts are areas where you fold the fabric over itself in a triangle or tapered section to add shape and make the garment more three-dimensional. It’s used for any garment that needs to be at least a little form-fitting, especially women’s clothing.

The darts are noted with lines drawn on the inside of the pattern, with points used to help you trace and line up the darts correctly.

Pleat lines

Pleat lines on patterns will usually be made up of straight solid lines, and dotted lines. You will need to fold the fabric to move the solid line to the dashed line and iron and baste the pattern in place to create pleats.

Size guidelines

Most commercial patterns will sell their patterns in a multi-size pack. This means when you open up your tissue paper, you will see multiple sizes nested inside each other. Each size will have a different pattern to the line to help you keep track of which size is which. Cut out the size that you want to make, or trace it if you don’t want to ruin the original tissue paper.

Lengthen and shorten lines

If you see two parallel lines running across an entire pattern piece, these are the lengthen and shorten lines. The pattern is recommending this as an ideal place to make the pattern piece shorter or longer. For example, I always need to shorten the arms and legs of pants and shirts because I’m super short.

View lines (A, B, C, D, etc.)

Sometimes the different variances in design that the pattern includes are nested within the same pattern pieces. For example, a skirt with styles at different lengths will use the same pattern pieces, but there will be lines running across telling you where the bottom of each style is. The pattern will notify you by saying something like “for A,” or “D only.”

Hemline allowance

This is a little note that lets you know how wide the hemline is intended to be. It’s not always the same as the general seam allowance, so it’s something you want to make a note of whenever you look at the hem of your pattern pieces.

Special seam allowance

In addition, some patterns will have a different seam allowance for especially narrow pieces. Sometimes around collars, sleeves, or waistbands, you’ll see a little notation that says something like “seam ⅜ inch.” This little notation overrides the seam allowance listed in the instruction booklet that comes with the pattern. Pay attention to this when you’re tracing and cutting your pattern pieces because it’s not usually repeated anywhere else in the instructions.

Stretch direction

If you’re using a knit or stretch fabric, it will always need to stretch more across the body. You will occasionally see the word ‘stretch’ along the side of a pattern piece to let you know you need to line it up on the fabric so that side stretches.

Gathered seam

A gathered seam is usually just written in on the pattern. It will say ‘gather’ with a notch mark on either end, to let you know which part needs to be gathered before it’s sewn. Gathered sleeves will be gathered between the two little dots.

Center front and center back

These are just notations to help you line up your pieces properly. They are commonly found on waistbands or on asymmetrical garments to help keep you oriented when putting the pattern together.

Stitch Line

If there will be any stitching inside the pattern, the stitch line will be denoted with a dotted or dashed line. This is for things like casings, where the fabric is folded over itself at the end, shirring, and some decorative stitching elements.

Fold line (for cuffs etc.)

Some pattern pieces will have a solid line in the center of the piece with the label ‘fold.’ This is typically seen on standard rectangle cuffs, collars, and waistbands. Instead of cutting two pieces, you cut one in double thickness and fold it in half when assembling your piece of clothing.

Crosshairs (largest point on bust or hip)

Many patterns will include a little circle with crosshairs in it. This is used to denote the fullest part of the bust and/or hips (depending on what’s relevant in the pattern). It will help you make sure these parts fit properly so you know whether to shorten or lengthen the torso of the pattern.

Waistline

Most patterns will have a little line with the word ‘waistline’ to let you know exactly where the waist falls. You can take your own shoulder-to-waist measurement to see if this matches up with the pattern and adjust the length of the torso as necessary.

Hipline and bustline

Some patterns will also include a little line to denote the hips or bust. This is less common than the waistline, but it’s the same idea. It helps you make sure your measurements fit with the pattern.

Finished garment measurements

Most modern patterns will also include some finished garment measurements on the pattern pieces. This will be a little chart that tells you what the finished bust, waist, or hip measurements are meant to be for the different sizes of the pattern. 

It will show up directly under the lines that are labeled waistline, hips, and bust. Sometimes only one of these measurements is included, and it will only be printed on the front piece of the pattern only.

Number of pieces to cut

Each pattern piece will tell you how many pieces you need to cut for the pattern. Make sure to write this down, since this information doesn’t explicitly show up in the pattern instructions. 

Typically you’ll see ‘cut 2’ or ‘cut 1 on fold,’ but I’ve also seen pieces for long strands of ruffles that say ‘cut 7’ so you always want to check. This will also give you the number of pieces you need to cut out of a contrasting fabric or from interfacing (especially for cuffs, collars, and waistbands).

Elastic guide (and ribbon guide)

If your pattern uses elastic, they will usually include an elastic guide as one of the pieces. Rather than tracing or cutting out these pieces, I just measure them and write it down so I know how much elastic I will need when I come to that part of the pattern instructions.

Where to find the key for pattern markings

Most patterns will include some kind of key for the markings on the pattern pieces. This will show up either on the sheet with the pattern instructions or somewhere on the tissue paper (usually in a small box that’s difficult to find). However, this key doesn’t always have definitions that are easy to understand, and it won’t explain what the shorthand notations mean.

What’s typically missing from sewing pattern markings?

One thing that’s missing from most commercial sewing patterns is the seam line, the line where you sew your pattern pieces together. The shape of each of the pieces is actually the cutting line and includes the seam allowance (usually ⅝”) as an extra border so that you have enough extra fabric along the edges to sew your garments together. (Some independent pattern-making companies will include it, but the main sewing pattern companies do not)

The seam line isn’t 100% necessary, but it’s very useful, so I will draw it in myself when I trace the patterns. Knowing where the seam line is helps you measure the pieces, so you can more accurately choose the right size. If you’re going to make any adjustments to the pattern, you also want to do it from the seam line, not the edge of the pattern piece.

As a beginner, you might not need to draw in the seam line, but the more experienced you get, the more useful you will find it. The draw the seam line, simply use a ruler to measure the seam allowance from the edge (you can find this number in your pattern instructions, usually it’s ⅝”)

The post Sewing 101: Sewing Pattern Markings and Symbols Guide appeared first on Fabricated Closet.

The elements on the pattern envelope will vary a little bit depending on the brand of sewing pattern you purchased, but most will still have the same basic information. When you know what to look for and how to read the pattern envelope, you’ll be ready to get started on your next (or first!) sewing project.

• Learn more about how to read a sewing pattern (for beginners)

1. The line art and variations of the garments

The first thing you’ll notice on any sewing pattern envelope is the drawings or photos of the designs included in the pattern. This lets you know exactly what to expect when you purchase and create the clothing.

The first thing you’ll notice on any sewing pattern envelope are drawings or examples of what pieces of clothing (or accessories) are actually included. This will include line art of the styles of the pattern enclosed and often highlights a photograph modeling one of the clothing pieces. 

Most of the time, there will be more than one option to choose from. Sometimes it’s the same shirt with different sleeve variations or different lengths for pants and shorts. Other times, you’ll get pattern pieces for multiple types of clothing. The different designs included in the envelope will be labeled with a letter, so you know exactly what’s included. 

The back of the envelope will have more line art along the side or bottom. This will show the back of the designs or styles that are shown on the front.

The front of the pattern envelope will usually include:

• Line art of the clothing designs included
• Photographs modeling the design styles (sometimes only one style is photographed)
• Each design variation is labeled with a letter
• The back of the pattern envelope will usually show the line art of the back side of each of the included design styles.

2. What type of fabric is recommended

Usually, the first section on the back of the envelope will be the fabric recommendations for the design. Sometimes, this section shows up more toward the bottom of the envelope. Look for a section labeled “Suggested Fabric.”

Different clothing styles will need to use different types of fabric in order to achieve the look marketed on the front of the pattern. If you use a type of fabric that’s too stiff, too drapey, doesn’t stretch enough, isn’t heavy or lightweight enough, etc. you’ll end up with a final product that doesn’t look or act as intended.

To prevent you from picking the wrong type of fabric, this section tells you which types of fabric to purchase. Usually, there will be at least three or four options to choose from, sometimes significantly more. It can also tell you the general types of fabric to look for. For example, it may say silky types or sized for stretch knits.

You don’t necessarily have to stick to the fabrics suggested. However, these are the types of fabric that are most likely to work well with the pattern. If you have a fabric with similar characteristics to the ones listed, it will also probably work well. You’ll get better at choosing the right type of fabric to use with a pattern as you sew more and come into contact with a variety of different types of materials.

3. What notions do you need?

Notions are the supplies and tools you need for garments other than the fabric. This is a very wide range of materials and supplies. The simplest patterns will only include thread in this category, or if there is no notions category, then thread is implied. However, most patterns will include instructions for closures too, such as zippers and buttons.

You’ll also notice that the notions are listed according to what’s needed in the different designs. For example, design A might need 2 buttons, while design B needs 4. So you will need to get different supplies based on which variation of the pattern you intend to make.

Notions that you’ll commonly see on sewing pattern envelopes include:

• Thread 
• Zippers (including what type and size zipper to get)
• Buttons (including the size of the buttons)
• Hook and eye (for invisible closures)
• Single or double-fold bias tape, or seam binding
• Elastic (how much in meters or yards, and the width of the elastic)
• Cording or twill tape (for designs that use a drawstring)
• Ribbon (for design or hemming purposes)
• Shoulder pads (for blazers and suit jackets)
• Grommets
• Snaps 
• Buckles 
• Studs
• Anything else specific to your pattern design

4. Sizing of the garment

One of the most important areas to check on the pattern is the size guide. This will be a grid either on the flap of the envelope or on the back (usually right under the fabric suggestions and notions).

The first thing to mention, these sizes are NOT the same as commercial clothing sizes. If you are a size 6 when you buy something from the store, do not automatically make a size 6 in the sewing pattern (it’ll probably be way too small). You have to take your bust, waist, and hip measurements and use the size grid to determine which size to make. Every brand will have its own size guide, it’s not standardized across all sewing patterns.

Now that you’ve got your measurements, it’s time to look at the size chart and determine which size is best for you. It’s pretty normal for some of your body measurements to be a size or two bigger than others. If this is your first time using a sewing pattern, use the biggest size that your measurements put you in. 

If you’ve made a few garments already, you might want to start looking at the finished garment measurements or measuring the pattern pieces yourself to pick the right size. Sometimes the pattern envelope will include the finished garment measurements (sometimes it’s printed directly onto the pattern tissue paper instead). You can use this to see what size the finished clothing will be. (Remember, you generally want the finished garments to be a couple of inches bigger than your body measurements)

• Check out my in-depth guide to help you choose the right size of a sewing pattern (Many patterns run large, so learning how to measure it for yourself can help you get a more perfect fit.)

Don’t forget to check the front of the envelope to see which sizes are included in the pattern. Often it’s split to make it less confusing and bulky when cutting and tracing pattern pieces.

5. Figure out how much fabric you need

After you use the pattern envelope to determine what size you are, you can use the grid on the back to determine how much fabric you need. The basic idea is to slide over to the size you fall under, then look down that column until you see which design you intend to make. This will let you know how much fabric to get.

Usually, there will be two numbers listed for each design. One amount for 45 and one amount for 60. Most fabric comes on bolts that are about 45” or 60” wide (115cm or 150cm for those who use metric). You will need more fabric if you are using a type of material that is the shorter 45” wide, so you always want to check this when purchasing your fabric.

In this section, you will also see the amount of fabric you’ll need for any contrast materials (if you are using a different color or type of fabric), and for interfacing needed (used to strengthen and stiffen collars, cuffs, waistbands, etc.). 

• Check out my more detailed guide for knowing how much fabric to get for your pattern

6. Knit vs woven

Another thing you’ll need to pay attention to on your pattern envelope is whether it was made for knit or woven fabrics. These are the two main categories of fabric you’ll use for apparel. Knit fabrics usually have some amount of stretch, while woven fabrics do not (the differences are more complicated than that, but that’s a whole other topic). If you try to make a knit pattern with woven fabric, it probably won’t fit because knit patterns take the stretch of the fabric into account.

By default, most patterns are made for woven fabrics. Patterns made for knits will typically be labeled as such on the front of the pattern envelope. It will say something like ‘made for knits’ or ‘sized for knits.’

However, not all patterns are so plainly labeled. Check the fabric suggestions to get a better idea of whether the pattern is made for knit fabrics or not. Patterns made for knits will include something along the lines of ‘stretch knits only’ at the beginning of the recommended fabrics.

You will also want to take a look at the stretch guide included with the pattern. Almost all knit patterns will include a little ruler that lets you know how stretchy your fabric needs to be (Burda patterns are the exception to this, they do not include a stretch guide). You will need to be able to stretch your fabric across the guide for it to work with the enclosed pattern.

7. Other information of the pattern envelope

There is some other information on the pattern envelope as well. These are things that are important to take note of, but they are fairly standard or they only show up on some pattern envelopes.

These other aspects include:

• The pattern number. This is just a way to categorize the patterns and is usually more useful to the manufacturers than home sewists. I usually use these for organizing purposes and arrange the patterns in numerical order.
• Sizes included in the pattern. Some patterns are separated into two different size categories (usually 8 to 14 and 16 to 22). Always check this to be sure you’re purchasing the correct size.
• The difficulty rating of the pattern. Some patterns will let you know if it’s easy, average, or difficult to make. Take these ratings with a grain of salt, since they are not always accurate. The difficulty of a pattern will depend on the parts of sewing you personally have experience with.
• The silhouettes that the pattern is ideal for. Some brands include little symbols telling you what body type the pattern is best for. Vogue sewing patterns are most known for including this little tidbit of information.

How to determine if a sewing pattern is easy

Now that you know how to read the pattern envelope and where to find the most relevant information, let’s talk about how to choose easy patterns to start with. If you’re reading this guide, it probably means you have limited experience working with sewing patterns, or maybe you’re new to sewing altogether. 

Sewing patterns are not always great learning tools. They assume you know at least the basics of sewing, and generally won’t go into every detail. In general, a loose-fitting shirt, an A-line skirt, or a simple pair of pants with an elastic waist are good first projects. Use these tips to help you choose a pattern that is not too complicated for you to start with:

1. Don’t always trust patterns labeled ‘easy.’ Patterns labeled easy are not always easy for beginners. Usually, this means that the pattern only uses a few pieces to make, so it does not have a complicated construction. However, if it uses a type of fabric you’re not used to using (stretch fabrics, flowy fabrics, thick fabrics, and sheer fabrics are quite difficult for beginners), or construction methods you don’t know, you may find it’s still a difficult pattern for you. Instead of blindly trusting the ‘easy’ label, check to see what skills will be necessary to sew the design and whether or not you’ve ever done them before. 
2. Avoid knit patterns, to begin with. Knit fabrics are my favorite to wear because they are so much more comfortable (to me). However, they can be a pain to sew with because the fabric stretches. Eventually, you should absolutely pick up some knit patterns and make wonderful things, but they are not the best sewing patterns to start with.
3. What skills are required to make the pattern? The more complex the pattern the more skills are going to be required when you make it. Try to choose one that uses a limited number of new skills and slowly add another skill to your repertoire with each new pattern you make.
4. Loose-fitting clothes are easier than tight-fitting clothes. The tighter the clothing is meant to be, the more important it is to get the body measurements just right. Since this is a difficult skill to master, you’ll have more success starting with some loose-fitting garments to start with, or clothing that uses elastic instead of exact measurements.

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The general recommendation is to cut sewing pattern pieces on the wrong side of the fabric (with the right sides folded together). This layout makes it easier to add dart lines and marks onto the hidden side of the fabric pieces. It’s especially important to pay attention to this for asymmetrical garments.

However, if you have a typical piece of clothing that is symmetrical on both sides of your body, it doesn’t really matter if you cut your pattern pieces out on the right or wrong side of the fabric. As long as you have a pair of pieces for everything you need to cut two of, you can do what ever you want.

Which side of the fabric should you pin and cut your pattern on?

Conventional knowledge says that it’s better to fold the fabric right-sides together when cutting, pinning your pattern pieces to the wrong side of the fabric. There are reasons, which I’ll get to in a minute, but it’s really more of a guideline than it is a rule. 

For the most part, as long as you are consistent and cut out all of your pattern pieces the same way, it doesn’t actually matter if the fabric is folded with the right or wrong sides together.

That being said, I will usually follow the conventional wisdom and cut my pattern pieces with the right sides of the fabric folded together. Some of the reasons this is the better way to do it include:

• You can more easily add the internal pattern markings to your pieces. I like to add the dart lines and other pattern symbols to the wrong side of the fabric. It’s just easier if the wrong sides are already facing out.
• It protects the right side of the fabric from pulling threads. The inside of the fabric will always be more protected than the outside. Folding the right sides together keeps it cleaner and less likely to get rips, pulls, or stains that are visible on the finished garment.

There are also some instances where you would ignore this rule. Mainly, when you are trying to match patterns or stripes across the seams of your pattern pieces. This is much easier to do if you can see the fabric design on the right side. The other time it’s advantageous to put the wrong sides together when cutting is when you’re working with a fabric that is slippery on one side. To make your cuts more accurate, it’s best to cut your fabric with the less slippery sides together.

The other thing you can do to decide which way to fold your fabric is to look at the cutting layouts on your pattern instructions (usually it will show right sides together). They will have a guide telling you how to cut your pieces. This is especially useful if you’re working with an asymmetrical pattern (when it’s not just two mirror images of each pattern piece).

What to do if it’s a slippery fabric?

I cut slippery fabrics differently than most other types of fabrics. This is because usually, only one side of the fabric is super slippery (or at least, one side is significantly more slippery than the other). To prevent slip-ups and mistakes while cutting the pattern pieces, I will always fold the fabric with the less slippery sides together.

Almost always, this means I’m folding the fabric with the wrong sides together. It’s much more common for the front face of the fabric to have a satin, smooth finish, while the back is matte and a bit rougher.

Which side to add pattern markings to your fabric?

Whichever way you cut your fabric, you still want to add the pattern markings to the back of the material. This includes dart and pleat lines, pattern symbols, stitch lines, pocket markings, button marks, and any other symbols that are relevant to your particular pattern. 

Adding these markings to the back keeps the front clean. If the chalk or fabric marker does erase or wash out as expected, the garment will still be wearable. You can also wear your new handmade garment as soon as you finish since you don’t need to wash the marks off right away.

Which way to cut your fabric when matching prints and stripes?

If you’re attempting to match stripes on the front or side seams, it’s usually best to cut your pattern out from the right side. This allows you to see the intricacies of the pattern more clearly, so you can cut it accurately. The most important part of pattern matching is always cutting out the pieces properly.

Unless you have a very basic pattern that you need to match, such as simple stripes, it’s best to cut one piece out at a time (meaning you’re not folding the fabric at all. You’re just working with one layer of fabric). This will give you more precise control over where you place and cut your pattern pieces so that the center seams and side seams can line up correctly.

Should pattern pieces be facing up or down on the fabric?

Most of the time, it doesn’t really matter if your pattern pieces are face up or face down on the fabric. This is because, if the fabric is folded you’ll get two mirrored pieces anyway. One will automatically be face up, while the other is face down.

However, it does matter when you are dealing with a sewing pattern that uses asymmetrical pieces. So if the right side of your garment is different from the left, you’ll just be cutting one of each side, and you’ll need to check the pattern layout on your instructions to make sure you’re cutting it correctly. Usually, they’ll either be both facing up, or both facing down.

• Learn more about how to follow cutting layouts on pattern instructions

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The cutting layout exists to help you cut out your pattern pieces using the recommended amount of fabric that the sewing pattern recommends. They will give you a separate layout for each design included in the pattern and for different fabric widths.

If you are a beginner, it can be useful to follow these layout suggestions to help ensure you cut everything out correctly. However, as you get more experienced, you’ll start to develop your own habits in cutting patterns (many of which will help you save fabric. As long as you are cutting everything on the grainline, it doesn’t really matter if you follow the layout directly.

• Learn more about how to follow sewing pattern instructions

How to read a sewing pattern cutting layout

The cutting layout is the section of commercial sewing pattern instructions that tells you how to place your pattern pieces on your fabric when you are cutting them out. Following the cutting layout will ensure that you cut out all of your pattern pieces correctly and within the fabric amount that was given on the pattern envelope.

This section will consist of images with the length of fabric folded in half lengthwise. The pattern pieces are arranged on top. If you need to cut out multiple instances of some pieces, they’ll be shown more than once.

The cutting layout section will also include a key telling you when pieces are placed on the fabric face up or face down, and when to cut on a single layer of fabric versus a double layer. There will be separate diagrams for the different versions of the garment included in the pattern and for both 45-inch and 60-inch widths of fabric. 

1. What are selvages?

So that you know which way to fold your fabric, the diagrams will usually include one side of the fabric labeled selvages. When I first started sewing, I had no clue what a selvage was, so this was one thing that made the pattern layouts somewhat confusing for me.

The selvage edge of the fabric is the long edge that’s factory finished and doesn’t fray. In some cases, there will be a white or unprinted strip going along this edge. When you see the selvage labeled in the cutting layouts, it really just tells you how to orient and fold the fabric.

2. What does with or without nap mean?

On most patterns, you will also see a little label saying the cutting layout is for fabric with nap or without nap. A nap is what it’s called when a fabric has a distinct fuzzy surface. (think velvet, corduroy, or flannel). Since the surface of these fabrics looks different depending on the direction of the nap, it’s extra important to make sure everything is cut in the same direction.

While most patterns do this anyway, some layouts include pieces that are upside down and would not be appropriate for fabrics with nap. Some pieces would look wrong on the final garment. In most cases, you will need to alter the cutting layout yourself, and you’ll probably need a bit of extra fabric to work with.

3. How many of each piece do you need?

Pattern instructions don’t usually tell you how many of each pattern piece you need to cut on the sewing instruction; they’ll tell you on the tissue paper pattern pieces instead. However, if you want a sneak peek, you can look at the pattern layout and see which pieces you need to cut multiples of.

For most basic patterns, you’ll only need a mirrored pair of each piece (or pieces cut on the fold). But sometimes you’ll need multiple collar and cuff pieces, or only one of some pieces if you’re making an asymmetrical design.

4. Should the pieces be placed upside down?

The pattern instruction will also include a key to help you place all your pattern pieces correctly according to the cutting layout. Most pieces will be right-side up (print side up), but occasionally the layout will tell you to place the pattern piece upside down. Usually, this will be marked on the layout with upside-down pieces being shaded gray.

5. Which pieces are cut from a contrasting color? Interfacing? 

In addition to the main fabric, some patterns have contrasting colors that also need pattern pieces. The pattern instructions will include this part too. It will usually be a much smaller diagram. If you can’t find it, try looking on the back of your instructions sheet. This part will only show the pattern pieces that will need to be cut from a secondary contrast fabric.

Interfacing will be another small section. Similar to the contrast fabric, it will only include the pattern pieces that need interfacing (usually the facings and/or collar pieces). This will also be labeled on the pattern pieces directly when you look at the tissue paper.

Do you have to follow the cutting layout?

Here’s my confession. I rarely even glance at the cutting layout of patterns anymore. Once you understand the principles involved, you can usually be more efficient with your material by moving the pieces around according to your own discretion.

There are many reasons why this tends to work better:

• The pattern envelope and instructions almost always overestimate the amount of fabric needed. I’m usually working with a slightly shorter length of fabric than is recommended.
• The width of different bolts of fabric is slightly different. This means there is more space on many fabrics than the pattern assumes, giving you more wiggle room.
• If you shorten or lengthen your pattern pieces to make them fit correctly, it will throw off the pattern layout as it appears in the instructions.

When you’re making your own pattern layout, you can more or less move the pieces around however you want, assuming that they still fit on the fabric. There are very few definitive rules here, as long as the pattern pieces are cut straight and in the same direction.

The two basic principles when cutting out your fabric:

1. Always place the tops of each piece in the same direction. This means choosing one end of the fabric to be the top and making sure the top edge of each pattern piece starts on that same end of the fabric. This is especially important for any fabric that has a one-way pattern, or any fabric that has a nap or pile (since these will look different depending on the direction of the fabric). Even seemingly solid color fabrics can have subtle differences in the way they reflect light from different directions.
2. Follow the grainline. Keeping your pattern pieces straight on the grainline will ensure that everything lines up correctly and the ending seams are not crooked because of mismatched grainlines.

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