Understanding the Sewing Pattern Cutting Layout
One part of sewing pattern directions that often gets ignored is the cutting layout section. This is where you see those big images of the pattern pieces placed onto fabric, telling you how you should cut out this pattern.
The cutting layout exists to help you cut out your pattern pieces using the recommended amount of fabric that the sewing pattern recommends. They will give you a separate layout for each design included in the pattern and for different fabric widths.
If you are a beginner, it can be useful to follow these layout suggestions to help ensure you cut everything out correctly. However, as you get more experienced, you’ll start to develop your own habits in cutting patterns (many of which will help you save fabric. As long as you are cutting everything on the grainline, it doesn’t really matter if you follow the layout directly.
How to read a sewing pattern cutting layout
The cutting layout is the section of commercial sewing pattern instructions that tells you how to place your pattern pieces on your fabric when you are cutting them out. Following the cutting layout will ensure that you cut out all of your pattern pieces correctly and within the fabric amount that was given on the pattern envelope.
This section will consist of images with the length of fabric folded in half lengthwise. The pattern pieces are arranged on top. If you need to cut out multiple instances of some pieces, they’ll be shown more than once.
The cutting layout section will also include a key telling you when pieces are placed on the fabric face up or face down, and when to cut on a single layer of fabric versus a double layer. There will be separate diagrams for the different versions of the garment included in the pattern and for both 45-inch and 60-inch widths of fabric.
1. What are selvages?
So that you know which way to fold your fabric, the diagrams will usually include one side of the fabric labeled selvages. When I first started sewing, I had no clue what a selvage was, so this was one thing that made the pattern layouts somewhat confusing for me.
The selvage edge of the fabric is the long edge that’s factory finished and doesn’t fray. In some cases, there will be a white or unprinted strip going along this edge. When you see the selvage labeled in the cutting layouts, it really just tells you how to orient and fold the fabric.
2. What does with or without nap mean?
On most patterns, you will also see a little label saying the cutting layout is for fabric with nap or without nap. A nap is what it’s called when a fabric has a distinct fuzzy surface. (think velvet, corduroy, or flannel). Since the surface of these fabrics looks different depending on the direction of the nap, it’s extra important to make sure everything is cut in the same direction.
While most patterns do this anyway, some layouts include pieces that are upside down and would not be appropriate for fabrics with nap. Some pieces would look wrong on the final garment. In most cases, you will need to alter the cutting layout yourself, and you’ll probably need a bit of extra fabric to work with.
3. How many of each piece do you need?
Pattern instructions don’t usually tell you how many of each pattern piece you need to cut on the sewing instruction; they’ll tell you on the tissue paper pattern pieces instead. However, if you want a sneak peek, you can look at the pattern layout and see which pieces you need to cut multiples of.
For most basic patterns, you’ll only need a mirrored pair of each piece (or pieces cut on the fold). But sometimes you’ll need multiple collar and cuff pieces, or only one of some pieces if you’re making an asymmetrical design.
4. Should the pieces be placed upside down?
The pattern instruction will also include a key to help you place all your pattern pieces correctly according to the cutting layout. Most pieces will be right-side up (print side up), but occasionally the layout will tell you to place the pattern piece upside down. Usually, this will be marked on the layout with upside-down pieces being shaded gray.
5. Which pieces are cut from a contrasting color? Interfacing?
In addition to the main fabric, some patterns have contrasting colors that also need pattern pieces. The pattern instructions will include this part too. It will usually be a much smaller diagram. If you can’t find it, try looking on the back of your instructions sheet. This part will only show the pattern pieces that will need to be cut from a secondary contrast fabric.
Interfacing will be another small section. Similar to the contrast fabric, it will only include the pattern pieces that need interfacing (usually the facings and/or collar pieces). This will also be labeled on the pattern pieces directly when you look at the tissue paper.
Do you have to follow the cutting layout?
Here’s my confession. I rarely even glance at the cutting layout of patterns anymore. Once you understand the principles involved, you can usually be more efficient with your material by moving the pieces around according to your own discretion.
There are many reasons why this tends to work better:
- The pattern envelope and instructions almost always overestimate the amount of fabric needed. I’m usually working with a slightly shorter length of fabric than is recommended.
- The width of different bolts of fabric is slightly different. This means there is more space on many fabrics than the pattern assumes, giving you more wiggle room.
- If you shorten or lengthen your pattern pieces to make them fit correctly, it will throw off the pattern layout as it appears in the instructions.
When you’re making your own pattern layout, you can more or less move the pieces around however you want, assuming that they still fit on the fabric. There are very few definitive rules here, as long as the pattern pieces are cut straight and in the same direction.
The two basic principles when cutting out your fabric:
- Always place the tops of each piece in the same direction. This means choosing one end of the fabric to be the top and making sure the top edge of each pattern piece starts on that same end of the fabric. This is especially important for any fabric that has a one-way pattern, or any fabric that has a nap or pile (since these will look different depending on the direction of the fabric). Even seemingly solid color fabrics can have subtle differences in the way they reflect light from different directions.
- Follow the grainline. Keeping your pattern pieces straight on the grainline will ensure that everything lines up correctly and the ending seams are not crooked because of mismatched grainlines.
