How to Know if a Sewing Pattern is Easy Enough For You to Use
We’ve all been there. You pick up a sewing pattern that’s supposed to be easy only to find that it is extremely frustrating to make. Maybe the neckline is weird, you somehow picked the wrong size, or your fabric won’t cooperate. Whatever the reason, it always makes you feel like you want to give up sewing because you can’t even make something ‘easy.’
You are not a failure! The ratings on sewing patterns can be quite deceptive, especially to anyone who is just starting their sewing journey. For example, a lot of ‘easy’ sewing patterns call for knit fabrics. Well, most types of jersey or knit fabrics are notoriously difficult to sew on a sewing machine. You have to learn how to use that type of material before you’ll have success with the pattern.
When it comes to finding sewing patterns that are easy for you, as a beginner sewist, there are some details you can glean from the pattern and envelope. Sticking to simple designs, with limited skills necessary is part of it. But paying attention to the fabric and fit of the garment will also help you finally have success on your early sewing projects.
Ignore the easy rating on the sewing pattern envelope
Before I get into how to find easy patterns, I want to address the ratings you see of pattern envelopes. Usually, when something is rated easy, it just means that the pattern has fewer steps or few pieces in its construction.
While this can mean that the sewing pattern is generally easier than something that is more complex, it doesn’t take into account the type of fabric that’s used or some difficult or confusing construction methods that are part of the instructions.
Knit patterns are notorious for doing this. I’ll frequently see ‘just for knits’ patterns labeled as easy. However, if you’ve never worked with stretch fabric before, I can guarantee you that this pattern will be challenging, even if it’s quite simple in construction.
So, what I’m saying is, most of the time you should ignore the easy rating. If something is ‘easy’ and you struggle with the pattern, that’s normal. Do not feel bad about it!
Use the following list to find patterns that are actually easy, or at least within the realm of your ability.
1. How many pieces does the pattern use?
The first order of business is to look at how many pieces are used to create the pattern. As a general rule, the fewer pattern pieces there are, the easier the pattern will be to make because there are limited details.
How do you know how many pattern pieces there are? Sometimes this is listed in the pattern envelope, but this number would include the number of pieces for all of the styles in the pattern, so it’s not usually all that helpful even if it’s included.
A better way is to look at the line art on the envelope to get an idea of the pattern pieces. If that’s too complicated, the instruction sheet on the inside will let you know. Look at the diagram with the labeled pattern pieces and count the pieces needed for your version of the pattern.
Generally, less than 6 or 7 pieces would be considered a simple style. The baseline for a basic shirt will be 4 or 5 pattern pieces (the front, back, front facing, back facing, and sleeves).
2. What skills do you need to complete the pattern?
The next thing you need to consider is how many sewing skills will be involved with the pattern. Do you need to attach sleeves? Does it have a zipper? Buttons? Elastic? Have you ever sewn a facing before? Is it all straight lines (like for a tote bag or apron) or do you need to sew on a curve (for most garments)? Does it have a straight hem or a curved hem?
Try to introduce only one or two new skills with each new pattern that you make. This way you won’t overwhelm yourself with too many new skills at the same time.
As a general rule:
- Elastic is easier than zippers or buttons
- A straight hem is easier than a curved hem
- Sewing a sleeve flat is easier than a set-in sleeve
- V-necks are more difficult than boatnecks
- Darts are easier than princess seams
3. What kind of fabric will you need to use?
The other part of sewing that is often overlooked by beginners is the role of fabric. Just like you need to get to know your sewing machine and learn new sewing techniques, you need to get used to working with different types of fabric. Some materials are just significantly more difficult to use than others.
In general, you want to start with more structured fabric, like cotton broadcloth or poplin. If you are trying to figure out if a pattern is easy, look at the recommended fabrics and ask yourself ‘Have I used this type of fabric before?’ If you haven’t, the pattern may be more challenging for you.
As you get more experience, you can, and should, challenge yourself and move into using flowy, thick, shiny, slippery, velvety, and stretchy fabrics. But if you start with any of these, you are likely to be extremely frustrated during the sewing process.
4. How much fabric will you need to use?
If a pattern calls for yards and yards of fabric, it can end up being a lot to handle when you’re sewing. Too much fabric makes it easier to get confused or lost when you’re trying to put everything together, and can also feel like a bigger disappointment or waste if the final project doesn’t come out as expected. Try to start with patterns that use less than 3 yards of fabric to complete.
5. How fitted is the garment?
Loose-fitting garments will be so much easier to sew than tight-fitting or semi-fitted clothing. There is a lot more wiggle room in getting seams and measurements wrong when dealing with a simple tunic shirt or dress, than with one that you want to have a perfect fit. This is also why pants are not usually the best first-project to sew, since they generally require a more precise fit.
As you get better at sewing on the seam line and understanding your measurements and the ease of garments, you can move to make clothes that have a tighter fit.
6. Avoid vintage patterns
If you are just starting to sew your own clothing, it’s best to avoid old vintage patterns. These patterns tend to come with the assumption that you already know a lot of skills that used to be common knowledge. There also might not be any explanation for symbols and notations that you’ll find on the pattern, and you might have to add in your own seam allowance.
Overall, it can be quite confusing for a new sewist. Wait until you’ve got a few simpler outfits under your belt before moving to the vintage sewing patterns.
