Fabric 101: Broadcloth
Broadcloth is a medium-weight woven fabric that has a fairly stiff drape. The texture is somewhat coarse, but not to the point where it’s uncomfortable or itchy. In general, broadcloth is a fairly cheap and easy fabric to start sewing with if you are a beginner sewist.
Broadcloth is a very common fabric that is used for anything from button-up shirts to jackets, dresses, skirts, and pants. The crisp texture also makes it a good choice for many home decor and upholstery projects, such as curtains, quilting, and pillows.
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| Fabric | Broadcloth |
| Texture? | Somewhat coarse texture |
| Stretch? | No stretch |
| Heavy or light? | Medium weight |
| Stiff or flowy drape? | Stiff drape |
| Nap? | Not napped |
| Typical fiber content? | Usually cotton or a cotton polyester blend (other fibers are possible, but rare) |
| Opaque or sheer? | Opaque fabric |
| Shiny? | Very slight luster |
| Fraying? | Frays but not too easily |
| Pilling? | Fairly resistant to pilling, but with time it will pill. Low-quality broadcloth will pill more easily. |
| Cool or warm weather? | Best for moderate temperatures, can be worn in any weather. |
| What to make? | Shirts, skirts, jackets, pants, quilting, home decor (anything that’s not too flowy) |
| What needle to use? | Standard universal needles (size 80 usually) |
What kind of fabric is broadcloth?
Broadcloth is the perfect fabric to start with if you’re a beginner sewist. The fabric is not slippery and doesn’t move around too much when sewing.
The fabric is medium-weight, stiff, and structured but still flexible enough to be suitable for a wide range of apparel (just don’t expect to make a flowing skirt out of it). It can also be used for some home decor projects (like curtains), linings, or even tote bags. Most broadcloth is just a bit more lightweight than standard quilting cotton, but it’s not uncommon to use it for quilting as well.
If you look very closely, you will see ribs running across the width of the fabric because it uses twisted yarns that cause a ribbed, plain weave. Sometimes the uneven weave is so slight that you can barely see it.
Broadcloth fabric versus poplin
Broadcloth and poplin are very similar fabrics. In fact, they are both woven the same way, with a slightly imbalanced weave that causes almost imperceptible ribs along the material. This makes it quite difficult to tell the two types of fabric apart, and some people will even combine them into one category of fabric.
However, the difference between broadcloth and poplin comes down to the thickness and strength of the individual yarns used to make the material. Broadcloth is made with thicker yarns that have also been twisted to make them incredibly sturdy and able to withstand a lot of tension. This makes broadcloth an overall stiffer fabric, that also has a coarser feeling when you touch it.
On the other hand, poplin is softer and more flexible. It also has a slightly more ribbed appearance because the yarns that go across the width of the fabric are thinner than the yarns that run the length.
What can you make with broadcloth fabric?
Broadcloth can be used for a wide array of everyday styles of clothing. Most commonly it’s used for structured skirts, button-up shirts, and lightweight jackets, but the material can be used for just about any type of garment. Just be sure to keep in mind that the fabric does not flow, so it’s not going to be suitable for anything that needs a drapey or airy fabric.
Properties of broadcloth fabric
- Texture: Broadcloth is a somewhat coarse yet kind of smooth fabric. It’s not going to have a silky smooth feeling to the surface, but it also typically won’t feel itchy or uncomfortable. If the broadcloth is 100% cotton it will be softer than broadcloth that uses polyester.
- Weight: Broadcloth is pretty much the epitome of a medium-weight fabric. It’s not heavy, but it also can not be considered lightweight.
- Drape: Broadcloth has a stiff and structured drape. It’s not so stiff that it can only be used for bottom-weight apparel, but it should definitely be reserved for more structured garments so you don’t end up looking like you’re wearing a tent.
- Fiber composition: Nowadays, most broadcloth is made from cotton or a cotton and polyester blend. However, it’s possible to find the material in a wide range of fibers if you look for it. Historically, wool was the main fiber used to make broadcloth. It gave the material a much different, fuzzier texture than what we’re used to seeing today.
- Opacity: Due to its tight and durable weave, broadcloth is an opaque fabric. None of the broadcloth I’ve ever worked with has had any sheerness to it. However, if you are using a very low-quality type of broadcloth, you may find that it is just slightly semi-sheer (especially if you are using a light color, like white or yellow).
- Shine: Broadcloth is generally considered a matte fabric. However, it can have a very slight sheen when the light hits it right.
- Fraying: Like most woven fabrics, broadcloth does fray. However, it’s a very forgiving fabric that is not going to fray too much while you’re working with it. You still need to make sure you finish your seams so the fabric won’t fray over time, but the fabric should be fine while you are working on it.
- Durability: Broadcloth is a fairly durable fabric with a tight weave that is resistant to snagging and tearing. However, there is a lot of low quality broadcloth out there, and that tends to be significantly less durable.
- Wrinkling: Since broadcloth is mainly made from cotton fabrics, it does have the tendency to wrinkle when worn or when it goes through the wash.
- Breathability: Since broadcloth is typically made from cotton it’s got some breathability. However, the tight weave and medium weight qualities do limit the airflow, so it’s not usually best for the hottest summer weather.
sewing with broadcloth fabric
Broadcloth is one of the easiest types of fabrics to sew with. It’s not slippery. It doesn’t fray too much. You don’t have to worry about stretch. The fabric stays where you put it instead of moving all over like flowy fabrics. If you are a complete beginner, this is pretty much the perfect fabric to start with.
When picking a sewing machine needle to use with broadcloth, universal needles work just fine. Usually, a size 80 is best, but a size 70 or 90 can also work. You can also use a standard stitch length when working with broadcloth fabric. That will usually be somewhere around 2.5 or 3, depending on your preference.
How to care for broadcloth fabric
Broadcloth is also an easy fabric to take care of. It can be washed as normal in a standard washer, you don’t even need to use delicate settings. It’s also completely okay to put the fabric through a tumble dryer.
The only thing I would say is, you may want to consider pre-washing your fabric before sewing with it (especially if it’s 100% cotton broadcloth). Sometimes fabric made with natural fibers can shrink a bit during washing.
How to iron or steam broadcloth
It’s perfectly okay to both iron or steam your broadcloth fabric and garments. When ironing, be careful with the temperature you set the iron on. 100% cotton broadcloth can stand up to high temperatures (but it can still burn if you’re not careful).
However, any broadcloth with polyester in the fiber blend needs to be ironed at a lower temperature. Since polyester is basically plastic fibers, it can melt if you make the iron too hot.
