How to Know if the Rayon You Purchase is Sustainably Sourced

Recently, rayon has become a popular type of fabric within the fashion industry. It’s a fairly soft fabric that feels almost like cotton but has a much more appealing and flowy drape. I have to say, I also love rayon and find it to be one of the most comfortable fabrics to wear. 

Unfortunately, rayon production has some major issues with sustainability, waste, and worker and community responsibility. Most rayon that you can easily purchase is not ethically manufactured.

That being said, there have been some efforts made to innovate and create oversight in the production of rayon. Tencel, in particular, is a type of rayon fiber that is considered sustainable. Other types of rayon that have been certified by the Forest Stewardship Council (FSC) may also be considered ethical and sustainable.

Is rayon a sustainable fabric?

In my opinion, rayon has a lot of potential to become a sustainable fabric. However, most rayon fabric and clothing that is easily available does not live up to this potential. While rayon is made from natural materials such as wood pulp, the production process usually involves using various chemicals that can have negative environmental impacts. Additionally, the sourcing of the wood pulp can also contribute to deforestation.

Some of the main problems with rayon production include:

• Deforestation: Rayon production relies on wood pulp from forests, and unsustainable logging practices can lead to deforestation, habitat destruction, and loss of biodiversity. In the worst cases, wood for rayon has been sourced from protected rainforests.
• Chemicals and emissions: The manufacturing process involves the use of various chemicals such as carbon disulfide, which is extremely hazardous to workers’ health and the surrounding community if not properly managed. Additionally, the release of harmful emissions like carbon disulfide and sulfur dioxide during production can contribute to air pollution and climate change.
• Wastewater and pollution: The discharge of untreated or poorly treated wastewater from rayon production containing chemicals, dyes, and pollutants can contaminate water, harming aquatic life and causing health issues in the communities relying on the water.
• Social and labor issues: There can be concerns about fair labor practices, worker safety, and workers’ exposure to hazardous chemicals in rayon production facilities, particularly in regions with lax regulations or weak enforcement mechanisms. 

The production of rayon is so toxic (in most cases) that it’s generally not produced in the US or Europe because the factories cannot adhere to the air and water quality requirements in countries with more stringent regulations.

How rayon is produced

Rayon is a semi-synthetic fiber manufactured from cellulose, obtained from wood pulp or plant-based materials. The production process begins with harvesting and processing the cellulose, which is extracted from trees or other sources. 

The extracted cellulose is then subjected to chemical treatment, traditionally using carbon disulfide (but that is starting to change). This chemical treatment dissolves the cellulose, creating a viscous solution. 

The viscous solution is spun through spinnerets, forming continuous filaments that solidify as they pass through a coagulation bath. This bath typically contains sulfuric acid or another coagulating agent. 

The extracted filaments are then washed, rinsed, and dried to remove any remaining chemicals or impurities. The dried rayon fibers may undergo further finishing processes, such as stretching, cutting, or twisting, to achieve the desired characteristics of different types of rayon fabrics.

The health impacts of rayon production

Rayon production can have health impacts on workers and communities if adequate safety measures and precautions are not in place. The specific health risks associated with rayon production can vary depending on factors such as the chemicals used, workplace conditions, and adherence to safety protocols.

Chemical exposure is a serious concern in the production of most rayon and viscose. Certain chemicals used in rayon production, such as carbon disulfide, can pose extreme health risks. Prolonged exposure to high levels of carbon disulfide may cause neurological effects, reproductive issues, and cardiovascular problems. It is crucial for manufacturers to implement proper ventilation systems, personal protective equipment (PPE), and adequate training to minimize chemical exposure.

Respiratory issues are also a problem for rayon production workers. Inadequate ventilation in rayon production facilities can lead to the inhalation of airborne fibers or dust, which may result in respiratory problems, including coughing, irritation, and potentially long-term lung damage. The use of appropriate dust control measures and respiratory protection can help mitigate these risks, but many facilities lack the necessary precautions.

The risk of chemical exposure is not just a problem for factory workers either. Since the chemicals used in the production of rayon are typically dumped in the water supply of surrounding communities, birth defects, neurological issues, and many other health problems have become heartbreakingly common.

What is changing in the rayon production industry?

While it is a slow process, the rayon production industry is undergoing significant changes to improve its sustainability. Manufacturers are beginning to adopt more environmentally friendly practices that are making the fabric more sustainable overall.

• Closed-loop production systems. These systems allow for the recycling and reusing of chemicals, reducing waste and minimizing the environmental impact rather than dumping the chemicals into the surrounding waterways and communities.
• Wood sourcing. There is a growing focus on sourcing wood pulp from sustainably managed forests or alternative sources to address concerns about deforestation. For example, Tencel uses wood pulp from eucalyptus trees sourced from responsibly managed forests.
• Switching to enzymatic processing of wood. Enzymatic processes in rayon production refer to the use of enzymes to break down the wood pulp into cellulose. This treatment replaces the need for harsh chemicals and solvents traditionally used, minimizing the environmental impact, increasing worker safety, and reducing energy consumption in the production process.
• Switching to low-impact dyes. By opting for low-impact dyes (typically natural or plant-based), the rayon industry reduces its environmental footprint and avoids the use of toxic chemicals commonly found in conventional dyes.

It’s important to note that this is still an ongoing change in the industry. Most viscose and rayon that you can purchase (either in ready-made garments or as fabric) are still not sustainably or ethically sourced. However, Lyocell products (such as Tencel or Modal) and well as certified fabrics are becoming sustainable options for rayon.

The tiers of rayon fabric, what is most and least sustainable

There are different types of rayon available, some of which are held among the most sustainable types of fabric. Since the rayon manufacturing process has been improving, there is a lot more potential for rayon to be environmentally friendly.

1. Lyocell 

Lyocell, often marketed under the brand name Tencel, is largely considered the most sustainable type of rayon. Lyocell is primarily derived from sustainably sourced wood pulp from responsibly managed forests. Moreover, the production process of lyocell employs a closed-loop system, where over 99% of solvents and chemicals used are recycled and reused, significantly reducing waste and environmental pollution.

Lyocell production also requires less water and has a more energy-efficient manufacturing process compared to other types of rayon. To top it all off, lyocell also tends to be more durable than traditional rayon fabric.

2. Modal 

Modal is often regarded as a sustainable fabric, although it falls behind Lyocell in terms of sustainability. Its production entails a less environmentally friendly process compared to lyocell, as it requires a higher amount of chemicals and energy.

Modal is usually sourced from beech trees which don’t require much water. Modal also requires fewer hazardous chemicals in its production compared to standard rayon. The manufacturing process of modal involves treating wood pulp with sodium hydroxide, which is considered less harmful than the carbon disulfide used in conventional viscose rayon production.

The way modal is produced also makes a difference in how sustainable it is. Some companies are more conscious of the manufacturing process and use closed-loop systems (especially Tencel modal), and some continue to pollute the surrounding waterways.

3. Bamboo

Bamboo rayon is a more controversial topic. On the one hand, bamboo is an extremely fast-growing natural resource. But on the other hand, saying bamboo rayon tells you nothing about the production methods used to create the fabric.

In most cases, it still uses viscose manufacturing methods that are not sustainable or safe for workers. In these cases, calling something bamboo rayon may as well be a form of greenwashing.

However, you can find bamboo lyocell or bamboo modal rayon fabric as well. The overall sustainability of the fabric relies more on the method of production rather than the raw material that’s used in this case.

It’s also important to mention that bamboo as a plant source is not always as sustainable as it seems either. While bamboo itself is a renewable resource that can grow rapidly and doesn’t require replanting, the establishment of bamboo farms has contributed to deforestation. This issue arises when existing forests or diverse ecosystems are cleared to make space for monoculture bamboo plantations. 

This doesn’t mean that all bamboo products contribute to deforestation, bamboo can and is sustainably farmed. But it’s a warning to not blindly trust a sustainability claim based solely on the ‘bamboo’ label.

4. Viscose

Viscose is basically a name used for standard rayon. Technically it’s a specific way of manufacturing rayon, but since it’s the most common form of production, the two terms are often used interchangeably.

Most viscose production is not sustainable. It’s arguably as bad as polyester material (which uses fossil fuels in the manufacturing of plastic fibers). The bad reputation of viscose is due to the hazardous chemicals used and the contributions it’s had to deforestation and environmental degradation.

If a fabric is just called viscose with no other certification or qualifier, it’s probably not a great material from a sustainability perspective. However, if the viscose is certified by the Forest Stewardship Council (FSC), it is a step up from standard viscose.

What certifications to look for when purchasing rayon fabric

Other than looking for lyocell or modal fabric, you can also look for certifications that can help you choose more sustainable forms of rayon fabric. While these certifications do not tell you everything, they do address the deforestation and chemical usage issues in rayon production.

Forest Stewardship Council (FSC):  This is an international non-profit organization that sets standards for responsible forest management. The FSC certification ensures that forests are managed in an environmentally responsible and socially beneficial manner. It verifies that wood and wood-based products come from sustainably managed sources. The FSC promotes the conservation of biodiversity, the protection of indigenous people’s rights, and the prohibition of illegal logging practices.

Oeko-Tex certification: For rayon production, this signifies that the entire production process, from raw materials to finished products, meets the stringent requirements set by Oeko-Tex standards. It ensures that rayon fabrics are free from harmful substances, making them safe for human use and environmentally friendly. By receiving this certification, rayon producers demonstrate their commitment to responsible manufacturing practices, including minimizing the use of harmful chemicals, promoting worker safety, and reducing environmental impact