Tutorial: How to Make a Messenger Bag with Pockets and Scraps

This tutorial will teach you how to make a lined crossbody messenger bag using scraps of fabric for the flap and 1 yard of fabric. I’ve also included a free bag pattern for you to print and follow along with the tutorial.

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Supplies Needed:

1yd fabric
1yd lining fabric
1yd heavyweight interfacing
fabric scraps

Pattern includes:

front and back and back pocket (cut 3 on fold, cut 2 on fold interfacing, cut 2 on fold lining)
front pocket (cut 1 on fold)
side and bottom gusset (cut 1 on fold, cut 1 on fold interfacing, cut 1 on fold lining)
front flap (cut 1, cut 1 interfacing)
strap (cut 1 on fold, cut 1 on fold interfacing)

(all of my patterns include 1/2″ seam allowance)

Download Pattern

Step 1

Apply interfacing

Apply interfacing to the front, back, and gusset pieces. Since I’m using a heavy interfacing, I find it useful to trim the seam allowance to reduce bulk when sewing. However, this is not entirely necessary.

Step 2

Double turn Hem upper edge of back pocket and baste to back of bag

I’ve left 1.5 inch hem allowance on the pattern piece. From here on, the back pocket and back bag piece will be treated as one.

Step 3

Hem upper edge of front pocket

Double turn hem the top edge of the front pocket (I’ve left 1.5 inches for hemming on the pattern).

Note: it’s a good idea to draw the lines in from the pattern since that will help you in the next steps.

Step 4

Fold over the second line and edgestitch (right sides together)

You want to fold over the stitchline on either side that is closer to the center of the pocket piece. Make sure right sides of the fabric are together and stitch very close to the edge.

Step 5

fold next line over wrong sides together and edgestitch

Fold over the end line and edgestitch (wrong sides together)

You want to repeat the same idea as the previous step, but this time wrong sides are together.

Note: what you’re doing in these two steps is making the pocket three dimensional. This is creating the inner side of your front pocket.

Step 6

Repeat steps 4 and 5 on other side of the front pocket

Step 7

Sew darts in corners of pockets

With right sides together, sew the darts to give the bottom of your pockets three-dimensional shape.

Step 8

Stitch center pocket to center front, then stitch around the pocket to attach it to the front

Line up the center of your front bag and the center pocket and stitch down the center. Then you can baste stitch around the perimeter of the pocket to attach it to the front piece. From here on the front pocket and front bag will be treated as one single piece.

baste pockets to front piece — baste edge of pockets to edge of front

Step 9

sew base gusset to front and back pieces

With right sides together sew the side/base piece to the front and then the back of the bag. When finished, turn right side out and be sure to press the seams.

Step 10

Sew lining together (same as step 9)

Repeat the previous step with the lining pieces. I recommend turning it right side out to more easily press the seams, but then you want to turn it inside out again.

Step 11

Place bag inside lining and stitch top and side edges (leave back open)

place the bag inside the lining, right sides together. Then stitch the upper edge along the side and front, but leave the back open (so we can add the flap there later).

leave back un-sewn — leave back open for turning

Step 12

turn bag right side out and edgestitch

Flip the bag through the gap in the back and stuff the lining inside. Edgestitch the very top to keep the lining down on the inside for a more finished look.

Step 13

arrange scraps to use for the flap and sew them together

Gather any fabric scraps you want to use and play around with them until they are arranged in a layout you like, then sew your scraps together.

Note: it’s easier to work with scraps that have straight edges, so you may want to cut straight edges on any curves fabric scrap pieces you have.

Step 14

cut out flap

Place the flap pattern piece on top of your scrap design and cut it out.

Step 15

apply interfacing to the back of the flap

Like with the other pattern pieces, I trimmed the seam allowance to reduce bulk in the seams.

Step 16

Sew flap to lining, leaving top edge open

With right sides together, so the flap and flap lining around the sides. Leave the top edge open (the side that will connect to the bag) so that you can turn the flap right side out.

Step 17

Clip curves and turn to right side (baste upper edge closed)

Turn the flap right side out and press the seams flat. You may want to edgestitch around the entire edge if the flap and lining won’t cooperate and sit flat, but it’s not necessary.

Baste the open edge closed to make it easier to deal with in the next steps.

Step 18

Stitch flap to back of the bag (Avoid stitching the lining)

Line up the flap with the back of the bag and stitch the two pieces together. Keep the bag lining out of the way so that you don’t accidentally stitch it.

Step 19

fold lining over back seam and ditch stitch

fold lining over seam and stitch closed

Similar to the way you sew a waistband, fold the lining over the flap seam and stitch it close to the edge. You can top stitch or ditch stitch, whatever you’re more comfortable with.